High oil pressure

[nightspeed87]

My 6bolt rebuilt without balance shafts has about 3 thousand miles on it now and the whole time its had way high oil pressure and a bad 14b turbo that was smoking oil ( but i beleive the turbo was already bad ) Well anyways I have the e316g now, and i was at first somewhat scared of the high oil press messin the turbo seals up and it smoking like the 14b but im still tapped at the head for the oil feed line so i cant see that causing that with the heads oil pressure. But beside that Ive already read thoroughly about porting the relief valve and etc but and I know its something I should do but dont really be having the time , plus this is my everyday driver, but for my own interest I want to know how many people dont actually port their relief valves after balance shaft removal and go without problems. Ive heard stories from reading the forums of ppl who had gaskets, seals, oil filters blow off from super high pressure, and even heard theories of bearings being washed out. So far i figure since its going 3k miles without something like that happening by now it probably wont happen but I could be wrong. I know it also depends how high it is and my mechanical oil press gauge is getting hooked up soon, but the stock gauges needle sticks near 3/4th up the gauge at cold idle, and after driving a constant 4k rpm the needle is sitting on the last blue line right before the red zone once ive even seen it touch red never hitten the actual H though..

 

[DSMULATOR]

I still have yet to start my 6 bolt built motor, but I don't even want to take the chance. 120 psi is way too high for my liking. Reading the posts on the filter housing porting makes it sound like it doesn't take much time. I know it definitely takes less time than pulling the motor and having it rebuilt....again...

 

[BrokenTsi]

I would suggest switching to a 90 style oil filter housing so you can run an oil cooler. The oil cooler will drop the oil pressure. Along with porting the relief valve, its a perfect combo for perfect oil pressure. Trust me, its worth it.

You can get a new filter housing at www.jnztuning.com. They have great prices.

On me engine, I have no balance shafts, unported relief valve, and a larger than stock oil cooler.

 

[nightspeed87]

I would suggest switching to a 90 style oil filter housing so you can run an oil cooler. The oil cooler will drop the oil pressure. Along with porting the relief valve, its a perfect combo for perfect oil pressure. Trust me, its worth it.

You can get a new filter housing at www.jnztuning.com. They have great prices.

On me engine, I have no balance shafts, unported relief valve, and a larger then stock oil cooler.

Ok this is interesting, doesnt colder oil temps increase oil pressure ( i.e when the cars not warmed up its higher) therefore why would the oil cooler drop the pressure, and have you confirmed on a real oil pressure gauge that it has been dropped? And by the way I do have a 90s oil filter housing, the thing is I just dont have a 90s oil cooler, well the one I had was all beat up so I just looped the lines together till I could afford some after market set up.

I still have yet to start my 6 bolt built motor, but I don't even want to take the chance. 120 psi is way too high for my liking. Reading the posts on the filter housing porting makes it sound like it doesn't take much time. I know it definitely takes less time than pulling the motor and having it rebuilt....again...

Yea I agree, its just more work than I want to do, i know you have to remove the alternator belt, crank pulley and front lower cover and then take off the oil filter housing, I dont know how difficult the porting and stuff is, Ive just been parcrastinating and I dont want to start it and get hung up and dont have my car because like I said its my everyday driver, in which ill probably get around to it in the summer hopefully.

But guys just keep the poll going im pretty much just trying to see how many of yall actually port this thing because im sure some have never even heard of or considered doing this.

 

[DSMULATOR]

you are correct in that colder oil is thicker oil and increases the pressure simply because it is harder to pump. I'm not sure if the oil filter housing has a thermostatic control valve, but if your really worried about it, such as in winter time, get a sandwich plate with a thermostatic valve. Check the posts around here because I think that might already be built into the O.E.

 

[TwoLiterLaser]

Try running some 5w20. An engine with a new front cover and removed BS should be just fine with 5w20, it will more than likely solve your super-high oil pressure problem.

 

[BrokenTsi]

Ok this is interesting, doesnt colder oil temps increase oil pressure ( i.e when the cars not warmed up its higher) therefore why would the oil cooler drop the pressure, and have you confirmed on a real oil pressure gauge that it has been dropped? And by the way I do have a 90s oil filter housing, the thing is I just dont have a 90s oil cooler, well the one I had was all beat up so I just looped the lines together till I could afford some after market set up.



Yea I agree, its just more work than I want to do, i know you have to remove the alternator belt, crank pulley and front lower cover and then take off the oil filter housing, I dont know how difficult the porting and stuff is, Ive just been parcrastinating and I dont want to start it and get hung up and dont have my car because like I said its my everyday driver, in which ill probably get around to it in the summer hopefully.

But guys just keep the poll going im pretty much just trying to see how many of yall actually port this thing because im sure some have never even heard of or considered doing this.

Yes. I have seen it drop on an oil pressure gauge. It works. I use an aftermarket oil cooler.

 

[Defiant]

Oil viscosity is not for regulating oil pressure.

 

[4wd-Eclipse]

I ported the hole of the oil relief valve and the pressure dropped from 6.3 bar to 5 bar ... the balance shafts were removed and using big oil cooler with -10AN hoses.

I recommend to port that hole

 

[nightspeed87]

Try running some 5w20. An engine with a new front cover and removed BS should be just fine with 5w20, it will more than likely solve your super-high oil pressure problem.

I dont see how switching to 5w 20 will make a significant difference and also im going to switch to synthetic my next oil change ( was waiting for the 3 thousand mile mark before i started running synthetic on this rebuilt engine. ) Im not sure what synthetic will do for this engine in terms of oil press though.

But keep the polls coming, its not to convince myself not to port it more so out of curiousity to see how many ppl actually do it.

 

[MyÜberFastGSX]

All you have to do to keep from having high oil pressure when doing BS removal is plug the galleys in the block, and you'll be fine.


And running synthetic will slightly reduce oil pressure because it's not as thick.

 

[TwoLiterLaser]

Oil viscosity is not for regulating oil pressure.

I agree 100%. But since it sounds to me like he does not want to take the time to port that hole, I offered it up as a possibility. AND it WILL make a difference in your oil pressure. Go to this site and read the fourth paragraph:

http://www.valvoline.com/carcare/articleviewer.asp?pg=ccr20040601ov&section=hm

That is an article straight from Valvoline's web site explaining the dynamics of differing viscosities of oils. The author clearly states that lower-viscosity oils operate at lower temperatures and therefore operate at lower pressures.

The best thing for nightspeed to do would be to port that hole.

 

[nightspeed87]

thanks for that link has some interesting information.
Like i said i know i should port the hole and will when i get time and what not, but was just curious about percentage of those who do and dont port it.

 

[DSMULATOR]

All you have to do to keep from having high oil pressure when doing BS removal is plug the galleys in the block, and you'll be fine.


And running synthetic will slightly reduce oil pressure because it's not as thick.

Blocking off the holes in the block that oil the B shafts is what increases the oil pressure in the first place

 

[nightspeed87]

Blocking off the holes in the block that oil the B shafts is what increases the oil pressure in the first place

I know right, .

 

[Defiant]

I agree 100%. But since it sounds to me like he does not want to take the time to port that hole, I offered it up as a possibility. AND it WILL make a difference in your oil pressure. Go to this site and read the fourth paragraph:

http://www.valvoline.com/carcare/articleviewer.asp?pg=ccr20040601ov&section=hm

That is an article straight from Valvoline's web site explaining the dynamics of differing viscosities of oils. The author clearly states that lower-viscosity oils operate at lower temperatures and therefore operate at lower pressures.

In breezing through that article, two mistakes I see are the definition of the API "S" and "C" classifications. "S" is actually for "spark ignition", and "C" is for "compression ignition". This is to distinguish between gasoline and other volatile-liquid fuel engines, and diesels.
There's not many manufacturer's sites I care to put a lot of trust into. For oil information, I prefer http://bobistheoilguy.com -there's more oil nutbars there than there are DSM nutbars here.

 

[nightspeed87]

In breezing through that article, two mistakes I see are the definition of the API "S" and "C" classifications. "S" is actually for "spark ignition", and "C" is for "compression ignition". This is to distinguish between gasoline and other volatile-liquid fuel engines, and diesels.
There's not many manufacturer's sites I care to put a lot of trust into. For oil information, I prefer http://bobistheoilguy.com -there's more oil nutbars there than there are DSM nutbars here.

This has some good info also.
I think i will be going with synthetic soon figure the engine has enough break in miles on it since im at 3k now, but not sure what type of synthetic
like a 10w30/ 10w40 or what would some of ya'l recommend.?

And keep the polls coming, its getting there.

 

[nightspeed87]

Well the 14b ( that smoked ) has been off my car and the 16g has been on but turns out that i am still smoking oil. Its getting very irritaing and old. The turbo is still tapped to the head in stock configuration therefore my high oil pressure theoretically shouldnt be pushing oil past the seals of a new turbo that easily right? I am starting to really go with the valve seals being bad. Another example of why im thinking its the valve seals is because when we first started it right after putting the turbo on, it was already smoking already and even if my oil pressure was that dramatic it wouldnt blow seals that fast on a new turbo at idle seconds after starting it.
This is the sympthoms of the car and whats going on, which are the same exact sympthoms before the turbo swap.

Turn the car on, puff of smoke comes out... Keeps smoking lightly during idle.
Drive around.. Doesnt smoke too much while driving around at cruising speeds.
But if i press the gas it will throw a slight puff, or even do it sometimes on decelleration.
If I floor it and go under boost it will send a huge cloud of smoke but then wont keep smoking consistantly throughout the whole pull, but if I let off then hit it again it will smoke again the same way then stop. Burns a good amount of oil because im putting about a half a quart a week when i drive around town and hit it every once and a while.
Any opinions or advice on how to know whats going on ...

Oh and to add I have a cheap 3dollar fuel filter tapped on my crankcase breather line going to the intake to see if it fills with oil but it doesnt ever, leading me to believe it isnt the rings having blow by, because compression is good also. and this engine only has 4k on it and everything was suppose to be o.e.m. rebuilt basically/

 

[gsxtacy]

My Evo III 16g did not blow oil by the exhaust seal under boost and I have BSE'd 6 bolt.

On the other hand, my Precision 6152e did not like the abnormally high oil pressure....so I just installed a .8mm brass restrictor and it works great....no problems whatsoever.

 

[nightspeed87]

My Evo III 16g did not blow oil by the exhaust seal under boost and I have BSE'd 6 bolt.

On the other hand, my Precision 6152e did not like the abnormally high oil pressure....so I just installed a .8mm brass restrictor and it works great....no problems whatsoever.

Can you show me how this brass restrictor looks, ( links or pics ) or tell me where I can get one... Also are you tapped to the head still because I am, and as I was saying I dont know how good of an idea this is considering that the head recieves a lot lower of oil pressure.... I have a few days of next week and then i am definitly going to port the relief valve as I am just tired of seeing my oil pressure so high and having to worry about messing up turbos and seeping oil past the oil cap. The restrictor might be a good idea, I just hope its not already too late and that I havent already done any damage to the turbos seals... I guess Id know if I had shaft play huh...

Oh and one more question, when you say your pte 61 didnt like the high oil pressure ( which ive heard about before that they dont like oil pressure past 85psi and youd probably get that by 4k without balance shafts ) but did the 61 smoke when you say it didnt like it? Then did it just stop smoking afterwards of installing the restrictor.?

Ok well new update... I ported my relief valve today... Oil pressure is much better, before it sat near the 2nd blue line on even warm idle, and anything over 4k was pegging the gauge in no time. Now warm idle is up at the 1st blue line, and no matter what rpm it doesnt go past the 2nd one. This makes me feel a lot more comfortable about my engine, but unfortunantly the car is still smoking.... It doesnt smoke on idle, but when you press the gas it throws out a puff, and if I floor it STILL throws out a big cloud of smoke under boost but isnt a long consistant smoke, just one huge cloud but wont continue to trail it during the rest of the pull... This 16g only has about 200 miles on my car and I dont see why the turbo seals could go bad that quick considering I only did about 6 or 7 half throttle half ass pulls on it so far, nothing more than that and no high rpm yet either. Could its seals gone bad that quickly like how my 14b smoked?

This is my thoughts so far on possibilities,

1, turbo seals bad already some how ( despite being tapped to the head in stock config.)
2, maybe restricted turbo drain tube not allowing oil to flow back to the pan correctly?
3, bad valve seals ( yet i dont have any blow by or oil filling up in my catch can line between the head and intake arm....

Any opinions, tips, advice on how to help me deal with my situation...


Last thing to try is cleaning and checking for kinks in my turbo return line which occurs to me that I havent check that yet... Hopefully, and theorettically ( with good valve seals, rings, good oil feed pressure, and no shaft play ) that should solve my problem id think.

 

[RedEyeBanDiT]

the type of oil like 5w30 and 10w30 are differnt thicknesses, thats why u run thinner one oil during the winter and the other during summer.

btw that 16g, what is better about that compared to the 14b? does it spoool faster, did u have to get a dsmlink or pocketlogger to compensate for that?

 

[nightspeed87]

Well I just took off my turbo return line and turns out I had silicone around both the entry and exit holes of it and Im sure it was enough to make a difference and possibly cause me to smoke because ive ruled out everything else up to this point....
After I put it all back together i let it idle for 10minutes checking for leaks.. Found none, then i drove it around my neighborhood but didnt really hit boost and put it back in the garage and started revving it and smoke was still coming out even though I cleared the drain line of restrictions.
So anyways perhaps I need to just give it a week considering It probably has to burn off all the oil that was in the turbine + o2 housing, and out the downpipe.
( Especially since i had previously been driving around with a smokeing turbo for like 3 months.Probably a lot to be burned off till its cleared huh.)

Well anyone else can comment on this, oh and by the way when i had took apart all my intercooler pipes yesterday there wasnt any oil in there... Well a tad but not like ive read in other ppls threads about qt fulls, no were near that much, and my sparkplugs never really had much oil on them, therefore im wondering did oil ever burn thru the engine at all, and more so if it just went straight past the seal on the exhaust side out the o2 which would make since because this car has always pulled very hard even when it was blowing clouds of smoke... What do yall think?

Ok new info now...
I dropped the oil relief valve again ( getting good at it now, didnt even have to take off crank pulley and belt this time )
And made sure the piston was moving up and down... It was, and I cleaned the edges of the porting up and what not to make sure its sliding correctly.

Then I put it back on and put new oil and started it... Still same results..
The stock gauge shows cold, and warm idle sitting at the 2nd blue line and driving in the redzone and last line... So now its starting to get fishy. I opened the screw where the relief valve piston is in ( while still on motor ) and took the spring and piston on completely ( I know this isnt safe drops pressure too low im sure. )
And started it like that, and the damn stock gauge showed the same thing STILL
yet the oil press light came on and i shut it off immedialtey. ( It was only running like that for literally 20 seconds and i didnt rev it. No issues arose from doing that)

Then i put the spring and piston back in the relief valve hole and now im sure my stock gauge is just coo coo. Will hooked up a mechanical soon since I have no idea was my oil pressure is even remotely like...

 

[demografik]

i hate to bring up an old thread but my car's doing the exact same thing. head gasket and valve seals are brand new. compression is 210 180 180 180. i guess the 210 is carbon, it was 190 180 180 180 a couple of months ago. i'm doing a seafoam and switching to 5w20 tomorrow to see if it makes any difference. i don't have time to port the relief valve right now. if it's not oil pressure, i'm kind of at a loss as to what the problem is. my only other thought is that a valve seal was forgotten or ripped when they were replaced.

the only difference is my oil gauge (yes, stock so i'm not trusting it too much) shows normal except during cold idle it's about where it should be during load. it smokes more during cold idle than warm idle, though.