Engine Rebuild bearing ?

[clumbles]

I have a 4g63T with quite a few miles on it and would like to rebuild it.
My question is can I just replace the bearings, hone the cylinders and replace rings? And reuse the old rods, pistons, and crank.
I have no rod knock, its a healthy running motor(drinking oil but not smoking out exhaust) Sometimes a small puff when I stomp it.
I rather crush a running car than pay someone an insane amount to rebuild the short block, or pay someone labor in general.

 

[dreamnevo]

yes, just check your clearances on the bearings and the gaps on the rings

 

[dsm-onster]

I have no rod knock, its a healthy running motor(drinking oil but not smoking out exhaust) Sometimes a small puff when I stomp it.
I rather crush a running car than pay someone an insane amount to rebuild the short block, or pay someone labor in general.

Have you checked compression?

 

[clumbles]

No need to check compression. My oil pressure is lower in the city than on the highway.

 

[dsm-onster]

So does mine. And I have a new set of rings. It is common for an older oil pump to be a little weak. My gage wanders on down to about "20% up" at an idle when warm.

Do a dry and wet compression test. And/or a leak down test to determine if a rebuild is needed. Unless you are hearign a rod knock or some other catastrophic noise. How far do you want to push this engine?

Nevertheless, you have a 90 6-bolt block. toughest stock rods & a non-crankwalk-proned crank. Pistons, rods, and crank should be fine. But again, how far do you want to push this engine?

P.S. Mitsu shop manual service limits for a 1G engine: 120 psi minimum for warm compression test.

 

[SnowBird]

You can get away with that. When you hone the cylinders be sure the ring end gaps are still within spec. Also, with the bottom end bearings, be sure to check for clearances, but it would not hurt at all to have your crank polished for $40 just to clean it up and be safe. If you have a little bit of low oil pressure look into removing your balance shafts, when you block the hole in the front shaft you will get higher pressure, sometimes so high youll have to port the oil relief valve. (sorry if you already have BS's removed, Im infamous for not checking peoples profiles)

 

[snox135]

No need to check compression. My oil pressure is lower in the city than on the highway.

So is everybody else's, because (depending on gear) you are at a higher rpm on the highway. The general rule is 10 psi per 1000 rpm's. They just trying to make sure you need to spend the money and time before you do it. But if you want to do it just so you know it's done, then do it. I would check to make sure your cylinders and pistons (skirts) are not becoming oval shaped. It can happen after alot of miles.