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Car crankwalked... ok to swap motors?

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Clipz0801

15+ Year Contributor
32
0
Aug 9, 2006
Fair Lawn, New Jersey
Eh, as stated i crankwalked a day ago coming home from the speed shop. But it was weird. Before i did all my mods to the car, there were no signs of crankwalking at all.. But after a few days of the car being street tuned, a loud ticking noise arose... And after it just walked... Well anyway i just wondering, im picking up a used 7-bolt with 22k miles on it from japanese motors, and having it put in, and i wanted to check if the mods i have here, would cause it crankwalk again... As of now im running around 13-15 psi.. and i dont want the other motorto walk out on me

thanks guys

Dejon FMIC 2.5 Piping
Dejon 2.5 Intake
K & N Filter
MAF-Translator
Apexi SAFC-II
HKS SSQV
Viper 550cc Inj
16g Big Evo III
Megan Racing 2.5-3 Downpipe
Greddy Evo-II Exhaust
Turbonetics GT Headers
ACT 2600 Clutch
FIdanza Light Flywheel
 
i asked, and they are actually cheaper, but they wont have any in stock until a month or more, and i need this baby to run now... so
 
if you have a little extra cash go with a 6 bolt... it would be well worth it... Lower compression, bigger rods, more reliable... And noooooo crankwalk....

Just like "420A" said, there are little things that you can do to eliminate crankwalk in a 7 bolt motor... just search for them
 
if you have a little extra cash go with a 6 bolt... it would be well worth it... Lower compression, bigger rods, more reliable... And noooooo crankwalk....

Just like "420A" said, there are little things that you can do to eliminate crankwalk in a 7 bolt motor... just search for them

^^^^Indeed there are things that can help with crank walk in the 7 bolt, you just have to look for them. I came across a thread last night and I will try to get the info for you. good luck.
 
If this is your only means of tranportation I can see you getting it done now with the 7 bolt, but is there a family member or a friend that can help you out with getting around while you wait for the 6 bolt to come in. It is well worth the hassle of bumming rides if you can drop the 6 bolt in. Just my opinion though. Good luck either way.
 
Well ufortunately there is not a 100% fix for crankwalk, there are theorys about probable fixes, but nobody seems to be able to back up a complete fix for crankwalk. Also just having a sixbolt does not mean that you will never have crankwalk, any motor on any car can walk, but its just a common defect on dsm yet some people with 7 bolt engines never experiance crankwalk. So your best bet would be a six bolt because they are known to be less likely to crankwalk, but its never going to be a perfect reassurance because the six bolt can walk just as a 7 bolt can.
 
point taken and considered, but my work consists of driving around to towns, LOL i work for verizon fioz crap so... ill see what i can come up with. Thanks all for opinions!
 
Well ufortunately there is not a 100% fix for crankwalk, there are theorys about probable fixes, but nobody seems to be able to back up a complete fix for crankwalk. Also just having a sixbolt does not mean that you will never have crankwalk, any motor on any car can walk, but its just a common defect on dsm yet some people with 7 bolt engines never experiance crankwalk. So your best bet would be a six bolt because they are known to be less likely to crankwalk, but its never going to be a perfect reassurance because the six bolt can walk just as a 7 bolt can.

This is exactly rigth.

First how do you know for sure your car walked? Have you pulled the motor and check the end play on the crank? If not DO NOT spread more crap about crankwalk. It is an easy scape goat for any motor problem with a 2G and rarely is it truly crankwalk.

As mentioned above no one knows the reason for crankwalk so how can anyone give out options to fix it ir keep it to a minimum? Honestly if it was me I would just buy a 6 bolt and be done with it. IF you have to pull the motor anyway then might as well do it right the first time. Even then you are not gauranteed not to walk, but chances are it will be much less likely.
 
Car was a 98, never modded till i got it, and it only has 57k miles on it... which is what baffald me.. WTF

What happened the first time, when i took it home, there started to be a loud cranking noise after certain rpm's... and then all of a sudden my started fried. Took it back the shop said one of your bearings is going, and they said it was pointless to do anything about, since we were talking about a stroker block, but at the time ,i needed a week to gather up the money, so it had to wait:notgood:

Well on the way home, the ticking got alot louder, and eventually, everyone and there deaf mother could hear it.... i mean it was very hard to even have the clutch catch to move it out of first gear... i mean it sounded like someone was taking a hammer and hitting my block...

The speed shop wants like 5-6k for everything, 6-bolt install with the stroker and water pump etc. and like 3.5k for the 7-bolt and game...

Called a few places, picked up a 7-bolt for 1.6k, or a 6-bolt for 1.4k(but they were out for a nother two weeks) And my buddy would install it for $450

So im happy were im at so far, only 22k miles on the car... is it best maybe to replace the bearings a crank with an aftermarket one? or willl that only cause more problems:cry: . I understand the 6-bolt is the way to go, but this car needs to run asap:confused:
 
did you say a 22K used 7 Bolt?

I wouldnt pass that up even with the promise that a 6Bolt will not CW
Direct swap in, start up and go?

DO IT!
 
yea bought it already, just worried about the ecu, cause the car was street tuned with the safc II so hopefully it shouldnt be a problem
 
Al motors are different, make sure to re-tune. Those setting may have been good for the last motor, but this new one could be much stronger and the tune could be all wrong for it. Goodluck and if your dropping big bucks like this why not throw out an extra 300 and get an chipped eprom and have a REALLY nice tune to work with?
 
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