EXh. and O2 porting WITHOUT turbo porting?

Tsi_User · 04-02-2007, 07:23 PM

The Talon is my DD, so I will unfortunately not be able to port/gasket match the turbo to the 2nd gen exhaust manifold and o2 housing i just picked up. Here's what I was planning on porting, but I wanted to make sure I should still do all of this with the unported 14b:

Exhaust mani:
to head, port to the stock gasket (due to stock unported head, found this out on vfaq)
to turbo, port out to 7cm gasket size and get rid of step. Will this still benefit the turbo?

o2 housing:
to turbo, port to stock gasket.
to dp, port to 2.5 inch gasket and get rid of step. Is the stocker only 2.5 inches?

And yes, I did search and look through vfaq

oldman · 04-02-2007, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tsi_User

to head, port to the stock gasket (due to stock unported head, found this out on vfaq)

Don't do that, the head ports are no where near the size of the stock gasket, what you want to do here is to reach into the runners as far as you can and smooth out the casting marks.

Quote:

to turbo, port out to 7cm gasket size and get rid of step. Will this still benefit the turbo?

Don't do this either as it will actually hurt performance by creating turbulence due to turbine inlet flange being smaller than the manifold collector flange.

Quote:

to turbo, port to stock gasket.

It won't help much without porting the turbo but won't hurt either.

Quote:

to dp, port to 2.5 inch gasket and get rid of step. Is the stocker only 2.5 inches?

This is good.

I would just port the turbine housing as well.

1stGenRocks · 04-02-2007, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldman

I would just port the turbine housing as well.

+1

Just go ahead and do all your port work on the manifold and o2 housing you bought. Then when you go to swap them on once the old mani and o2 are off take the small 10mm vband off the center section and tap the turbine housing with a hammer and it will come right off. Port it out quick and then toss it all back together. The hardest part of doing the turbo is the manifold and o2 housing anyway.

Tsi_User · 04-02-2007, 08:17 PM

Thanks for the quick response oldman

so on the manifold just get rid of the step and use a stock 6cm gasket? Should i just work a small bit around the divider and leave that alone?

and on the o2 housing, port to stock gasket on turbo side and to a 2.5 inch flange on dp side right?

Maybe I can talk my friend into letting me port the turbine housing and just use a 7cm gasket on that end, I just always feel bad because I live in an apartment, don't have ANYTHING to work under and we do all the work at his parents place lol

oldman · 04-02-2007, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tsi_User

so on the manifold just get rid of the step and use a stock 6cm gasket? Should i just work a small bit around the divider and leave that alone?l

You can knife edge the divider but do not remove them.

Quote:

and on the o2 housing, port to stock gasket on turbo side and to a 2.5 inch flange on dp side right?

I wouldn't even bother on the turbo side if you're not going to port the turbine housing. I would just do what 1stGenRocks suggested and get it done right all at once.

kenamond · 04-02-2007, 08:52 PM

The O2 housing and mani are much harder to port than the turbine housing as far as hardness of the material (that was my experience anyway). The turbine housing is like butter in comparison.

If you were going to port anything, I'd recommend porting the mani collector and turbine entrance to a 7cm gasket. The O2 housing exit to DP would be next, but I'd include gasket matching both the turbine and O2 housing sides, especially the turbine exit.

To port any of this stuff, you have to tear it all apart, and then you might as well do it right.

I'm not sure if 14b's creep with an upgraded exhaust (Bruce?), but if they're prone to it, and you plan on an exhaust upgrade, you might want to research what you can do with porting to decrease the risk of creep.

Make sure you mark the housing and center section so you can get the turbine housing clocked right when you reinstall.

As far as mess, I threaded hooks into the ceiling of my garage and got a few 8'x12' tarps ($4 each) and hung the eyelets on the scews and taped the seams in a few places. I had an 8' banquet table in the middle with my huge vice clamped to it and a pair of 500W hallogen lights on a tripod ($45 at Home Depot/Lowes) illuminating the scene. The tarps kept the metal shavings from wandering too far (but kept the heat from the lights in there, too).

romeen · 04-02-2007, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenamond

The O2 housing and mani are much harder to port than the turbine housing as far as hardness of the material (that was my experience anyway). The turbine housing is like butter in comparison.

You noticed that too, huh? The collector on the manifold was a bear, even with a carbide bit and die grinder.

DSMunknown · 04-03-2007, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldman

what you want to do here is to reach into the runners as far as you can and smooth out the casting marks.

Are there (recommended) extensions that can reach deep into the EM runners (and are able to resist bending)?

MrBoxx · 04-03-2007, 11:57 AM

Just a safety warning: Wear some protective eyewear when you do your porting. Nothing sucks more than having metal shavings stuck in your eye.

kenamond · 04-04-2007, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DSMunknown

Are there (recommended) extensions that can reach deep into the EM runners (and are able to resist bending)?

You can buy burrs with different length shanks. I dunno how much force you can apply to really long ones, though (I think they are as long as 6" or so). My electric die grinder head is small enough to fit into the runner maybe 1.5-2", so you can reach pretty far (this was with a 2.5" shank burr). Maybe going to a 3.5" shank burr would get you far enough in without risking anything.

oldman · 04-04-2007, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenamond

You can buy burrs with different length shanks. I dunno how much force you can apply to really long ones, though (I think they are as long as 6" or so). My electric die grinder head is small enough to fit into the runner maybe 1.5-2", so you can reach pretty far (this was with a 2.5" shank burr). Maybe going to a 3.5" shank burr would get you far enough in without risking anything.

6" is crazy, at least the ones from ebay, be ready to shut the grinder off immediately, be prepare for the vibrating ride of your life, let's just say I was lucky because I had heavy duty gloves on.