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Rear Diff Question

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The_EE

15+ Year Contributor
838
5
Feb 25, 2006
Clinton, Missouri
I've done my fare share of searching, perhaps the old vets and possibly the old mitsu techs here can help me out on the conflicting data I have gathered.

I am in need of a rear diff to finish my car. Problem is the data that I have found states

I can only use a 95-96 LSD rear diff with my 95 transmission/transfer case setup.

or

I can use any 95-99 LSD rear diff because the transfer case is the part that matters with the transmission, all the rears have the same gear ratio which is 3.545

Its making finding one harder on me because I dont know what to look for and cant afford to pick up one and it be wrong otherwise the car wont be going anywhere. Since all the rears have the same gear ratio, I am assuming that the second set of information is correct and that the trans/TC combo is what matters.

Can someone please give me their 2 cents?
 
This just came up on our local forum. The 2g rear ends are all the same as long as you don't get an auto rear diff (assuming yours is manual). Here is what a local tranny shop said:

The only thing to worry about with the 2G rear ends is to make sure it is not from an auto.

The main thing to worry about with the gear ratios on a 2G is the front diff ring gear changed and the t-case changed. That's about it as far as I know. The front diff ring gear should have 58 teeth pre97 and anything above should have 57. A simple way to check the t-cases is to mark both shaft ends and turn the coupler by hand. The mark on the output shaft end (where the yoke goes) should line up after 12 turns of the coupler if it's pre97 and the later ones will line up after 14 turns.

And another quote:

Yeah, from what I have seen, 89-96 was all the same as far as gear ratios go on the t-cases and front diff ring gear. Mits was real slime-balls though and changed the helix angle a little through out the years, but the ratio stayed the same.

97 and up they had a different ratio. What is interesting is when Mits changed the front diff ring gear, the same pinion gear can still be used. They were able to change the gear ratio by only replacing the ring gear only.

Hope this helps.
 
Yeah it will help a lot in tracking down a rear diff. Time to start calling my contacts and see if I can find something asap.
 
Alright, I found a rear diff but its a non LSD. I did some searching and only found one thread here that deals with rear diff and axles and it didnt answer my question. Can I use my LSD axles on a non LSD rear end? I remember hearing one will work with the other like non LSD will work with LSD or Non LSD Axles ( which I am assuming ) and the LSD rear end will only accept LSD axles.

Found a Diff for $100 shipped, could have it Friday from the dismantler so the quicker the better.

many thanks
 
Hey wey just make sure that the diff is for a 5 speed cause there is no way that you could have fund a rear diff for that cheap around this area. Trust me you can't. Unless is an Auto or a 1g cause most yards will sell the wrong parts to just to get your money.

Oh and by the way the axels will work.
 
I used to work in the auto dismantling business, I have a few connections.

I had the guy read the codes off the back of the diff for me and didnt give him any info into what I was looking for, its 5 speed for sure ( BFB 3.545 ) which is a non LSD rear. I think I am going to get it tomorrow.

I can get non LSD rear ends all day for under $200. Its the LSD ones that are harder to come by.
 
1995

Eagle Talon non-lckng, MT- A S191P $200.89

1995

Eagle Talon MATCH LOCK OR NOT NO. 19495 0024 $200

1995

Eagle Talon 5-94,AWD,TSI, FMTO REAR A 1G2421 $175

1995

Eagle Talon 2.0T5SAC A 010653

1995

Eagle Talon 2.05SAC, T A 011487 $174.93

1998

Eagle Talon TURBO,5SPD,RECHECK IF LOCKING 83166 $150

1995

Eagle Talon non-lckng- GC/CHECK FOR LOCK OR NONLOCK 4443P $135

1995

Eagle Talon non-lckng, MT- MB837592 0579 $75
 
Ok.. Rear diff is ordered but now I am getting more conflicting reports that I wont be able to use the rear end with my LSD axles. I am scared I may have wasted the money on it.

Looks like I may need to get axles anyways. This is what I found that looks different between my driver side and passenger side axles.

Drivers side axles looks normal

Passenger side looks like it may be separating from the cup

Since the axles are rust welded in, I would require the old axles to be cut out from the thing that the hub bearing goes into ( forgive me I dont know the name ), Knuckle assembly? What years of cars could I use the assembly from? Are the N/T's the same as the Turbos? If so, I could always grab a couple from the local pick a part for cheap.

Or, perhaps switching out the cups on the rear axles for non LSD ones?
 
Still looking for any input from anyone who may have any suggestion on what I could or should do.
 
Hey wey just make sure that the diff is for a 5 speed cause there is no way that you could have fund a rear diff for that cheap around this area. Trust me you can't. Unless is an Auto or a 1g cause most yards will sell the wrong parts to just to get your money.

Oh and by the way the axels will work.

Axles wont work, I just tried to put the passenger side in and it is being blocked by the bar in the middle. Oh well.

I dropped my rear diff off at the shop, hopefully the damage isnt too bad, I should find out wensday when he has a chance to crack it open.
 
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