car keeps stalling from high rpm's. no leaks!

[burnnxs]

im not venting to the atmosphere...or have any leaks... with that said if i rev hard and let go it stall's, same thing driving i have to slow down in gear, just cant drop to neutral after i step on it ,low fuel trim is 81 mid 98 high 89, the biss screw is all the way in, the egr is blocked , new 02 and maf

i thought for a while that it was the lighter flywheel ? could running this rich make it stall ? messing with the cas is what i have in mind now dont want to rush in to a new isc sensor without posting. any thoughts...

if you want to see my mods check my profile thanxs for the help.

 

[B-lackGSX99]

I have this problem also...although it hasn't totally stalled on me in quite a while. Nowadays, it just dips to very very low rpm's and sounds like it's threatening to stall. I think that this change in beaviour is moreso due to the fact that I am aware of the issue and drive differently (ease the rpms back down in gear if I need to slow after revving the engine up). I believe it is due to our running relatively rich...a fat ratio could definitely lead to this kind of a problem, however I could be very wrong. I look forward to someone helping us to diagnose or comment productively on this issue.

 

[burnnxs]

No way man!! I asked this question on talk and this forum and nobody can give me a check list of possible solutions to fix this on going bad behavior of my DSM.

So I'm bumping this dead thread and hope somebody posts some good info which others could use as a reference in the future If not, I will make one myself once I figure out my problem. I don't care how long it takes. I will not rest in peace until this car runs without any issues.

 

[compression]

the flywheel could contribute to the fact but i dont think it would make it completely stall out because of it, the lighter the flywheel the less inertia , rotating mass. so when the rpms start falling they will fast pretty fast and may not stop where they should , but as far as a constant stalling problem , youve got me

i would try leaning it out until you get the fuel trims, around 100(ish) and then go from there, you shouldnt have to mess with your cas, you have a chip so you should be able to keep the afc near zero and run decently , but if you have to , then lean it out a little bit.

 

[turbolover10]

I doubt it has anything to do with the flywheel...
My first guess would be maf but you said you bought it new...

 

[bpestilence]

Most problems with idling or failing to idle can be solved by cleaning the IAS. It is this guy attached to your throttle body:

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Take it off and give it a good cleaning with carb cleaner. Here is a pic of where it can be found in the car:

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Hope that helps.

 

[burnnxs]

Most problems with idling or failing to idle can be solved by cleaning the IAS. It is this guy attached to your throttle body.

It's ISC-Idle speed control . and mine tested at 30ohms all across.
This thread is old let me update a little...
I bought a new CTP .
Blocked the fiav only. ISC still runs with a partial block off that will be removed today .

I am leaning towards ignition... I'm going to do some research and keep posting.
What are the symptoms of a bad CAS, power transistor, defective ign coil's ?

 

[laserspeeddemon]

First you the way you spelled Salt Lake City makes you look like a 13 yr old in a AIM chat room.

Second, how have you determined you have no leaks?

 

[turboglenn]

My question is why do you have teh BISS turned all the way in? There's a procedure for setting it corectly, so you should probably try that, and idle is the most picky part of an engine to tune ( specially with larger injectors )

Maybe there's some stuff with what ever management your running that i dont' know about that would require the BISS to be bottomed out, but i'm not sure on that. Too fat or too lean when teh ISC is trying to "catch the motor" can both cause stalling problems. And teh lightened flywheel doesn't make it any better and can contribute to the stalling as well.

A lot of people i know that got sick of having to deal with IAC's and FIAV's have just done away with them and manually set teh idle to abotu 1000 - 1100 and it works for the most part. Me on the the other hand want my tuning skills to rival that of a factory engineer so i'll sit and mess with settings till i run out of gas idling or get it right

 

[burnnxs]

First you the way you spelled Salt Lake City makes you look like a 13 yr old in a AIM chat room.

Second, how have you determined you have no leaks?

First...BTW I work for a dealership and I'm 22 and typing never was my forte specially back when I created this post.
I tell you what if you live in the "insane" SLC that I live in, you will probably start typing like that in no time too...

Second... I am not sure how do you boost leak test your car but I did it the conventional way ( Shop-brewed leak tester in the turbo inlet ) and after this I used starter fluid on the crucial spots like hose, TB... bla bla bla.

 

[burnnxs]

My question is why do you have teh BISS turned all the way in? There's a procedure for setting it corectly, so you should probably try that, and idle is the most picky part of an engine to tune ( specially with larger injectors )

Maybe there's some stuff with what ever management your running that i dont' know about that would require the BISS to be bottomed out, but i'm not sure on that. Too fat or too lean when teh ISC is trying to "catch the motor" can both cause stalling problems. And teh lightened flywheel doesn't make it any better and can contribute to the stalling as well.

A lot of people i know that got sick of having to deal with IAC's and FIAV's have just done away with them and manually set teh idle to abotu 1000 - 1100 and it works for the most part. Me on the the other hand want my tuning skills to rival that of a factory engineer so i'll sit and mess with settings till i run out of gas idling or get it right

Remember that I started this thread I while ago, I have regain full control of the biss screw by adjusting the idle switch sensor to proper specs. Now I can drop the idle to 400rpm if needed.

I need to get to tunning on this pig. right now I'm seen 81 for low mid and high for f-trims.

I went that route for a while (Blocked the entire lower tb ) but after seen no results but improvement from other adjustments I unblocked the ISC.

Yes man I share your pain and know that I eventually will be able to figure out the problem or problems that not only I suffer from when it comes to idling.

 

[burnnxs]

The car idle's a lot better when cold.

Does the ECM makes the car run lean or rich to get to operating temps ?

Also... only when I ground the "idle wire" the car surge's.

 

[turboglenn]

I need to get to tunning on this pig. right now I'm seen 81 for low mid and high for f-trims.

what Fuel trims are that high, and why? I'm not familiar with teh ECU+ and some of teh other systems i've read about on here lately. So i can't understand why people are talking about fuel trims in the excess of 15-20%.

When i'm talking about short and long term fuel trims, i'm talking about correction made by the factory ECU to the pulse width based on readings from the oxygen sensors. Is there's something else that i'm un-aware of that people are calling their fuel trims?

Personally i've spent so much more time on stand alones and things like DSM link and Utec systems that i hardly ever see anything related to the fuel trimming associated with the stock ECU's correction abilities.

Please fill me in on this subject if you can.

 

[burnnxs]

what Fuel trims are that high, and why? I'm not familiar with teh ECU+ and some of teh other systems i've read about on here lately. So i can't understand why people are talking about fuel trims in the excess of 15-20%.

When i'm talking about short and long term fuel trims, i'm talking about correction made by the factory ECU to the pulse width based on readings from the oxygen sensors. Is there's something else that i'm un-aware of that people are calling their fuel trims?

Personally i've spent so much more time on stand alones and things like DSM link and Utec systems that i hardly ever see anything related to the fuel trimming associated with the stock ECU's correction abilities.

Please fill me in on this subject if you can.

Ok I was reffering to the low, mid and high fuel trim's on my pocket logger.
The ECM parameters should be from 60-140, like you already probably know under 100 is rich and over is lean.

 

[burnnxs]

bump...

 

[shanelee]

i am having the same problem. my problem started after i put an after market intake on my tsi. if am sitting still and rev the car past 3 grand, it comes down and just dies. while i am driving and coming to a stop as soon as i put the car and neutral and let up off the clutch, the car falls to 0 rpm, and then if i put it in gear it will start back up. this is really annoying, any ideas?

 

[Nicks2319]

This problem is common when you have a boost leak, or your FPR is not working correctly, or your AFPR is not set to the right pressure. Check all this stuff.