engine rebuild

[mattspyder]

Im going to be rebuilding my engine very soon and looking for some input.
I looked up on specs and it said the eclipse should get 23mpg city/31mpg highway.
my question is if I just wanted like 250-300hp what would I have to do to the engine to still keep good on gas. I have a T04b vtrim turbo right now with 650 injectors. and its not tuned yet so my mpg is stupid. what needs to be done.

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

Well overall; the gas mileage and total max horsepower are not the only 2 factors; it's how you drive.

So a car that has say 400 HP can still get 28 MPG on the highway, IF you are not boosting the whole time, if you are driving for fuel mileage. Then when you are boosting it hard, you gas mileage can be as low as 10 MPG, but that would be if you were driving it hard the whole time, like on the track as an example.

And yes it needs to be tuned properly to get the maximum possible MPG, but that's pretty obvious. As far as your current situation; 650 injectors with what kind of fuel control? Fuel pump? If you are stock fuel control then it makes sense that your mileage would suck...you need SAFC, or DSMLink or something to tune with...

I recomend you doing more research in the area of fuel control.

Just throwing in .02 cents..

 

[kenamond]

^^^Completely agree.

You could also go back to the stock injectors until you have some fuel control. You mention that it's not tuned "yet" so maybe you already have SAFC, chipped ECU, etc.

Get it tuned and lay off the gas pedal.

EDIT: Boost leaks will rob power and fuel economy. The appear out of nowhere as seals age, so you should leak test regularly (every oil change or two). I was getting 8mpg from boost leaks when I first upgraded my turbo (damned UICP weld leaked).

 

[mattspyder]

Well I have a 190 fuel pump and then the 650 injectors. I do have a safc II and a pocket logger for tuning, However Im thinking about just having my engine rebuilt like stock maybe alittle bit better. putting my stock injectors on and getting a evo III big 16g. would that set up work . Im really not a big fan of the tO4b vtrim it spools way to slow.
I just need to find a play in Wisconsin that does engine rebuilds.

 

[kenamond]

Well I have a 190 fuel pump and then the 650 injectors. I do have a safc II and a pocket logger for tuning, However Im thinking about just having my engine rebuilt like stock maybe alittle bit better. putting my stock injectors on and getting a evo III big 16g. would that set up work . Im really not a big fan of the tO4b vtrim it spools way to slow.
I just need to find a play in Wisconsin that does engine rebuilds.

You could do an evo3b16g, 650s, SAFC2, but you may run into creep issues. Is your exhaust 2.5" or 3" or what? 650s are overkill for 250-300hp. 550s would be plenty and would work a bit better with the SAFC than 650s w.r.t. the incresaed timing advance you get as a side effect.

If you do end up with creep problems, you might want a better WG. If you have 2.5" exhaust, you won't be as likely to creep, but it could still happen. I usually recommend just running 20psi, but that might ding your fuel economy; you can't control creep with the gas pedal necessarily, so you might have trouble getting good gas mileage.

Another option is getting a FP Big28 instead of the evo3b16g. It's not as prone to creep, spools a bit faster, and would get you to 300hp. If you still have your T25, you can save $100 on a core exchange. I've heard that a new b16g with install kit comes in at around the same as the fpb28, but prices may have changed.

 

[SvarO]

am going to rebuild my 7 bolt soon, 135k miles on it. 170 compresion test. am going to put new forge piston and bearing caps, new rings, i dont have enough money to do the 6 bolt conversion, what do you think guys?

 

[MyÜberFastGSX]

Sell your 7 bolt, and buy a 6 bolt block. It's worth it, Trust me. My last 7 bolt shot a rod through the oil pan on #3, because it walked, and the balance shaft belt snapped.

So save your money up and build it right.

 

[SvarO]

Sell your 7 bolt, and buy a 6 bolt block. It's worth it, Trust me. My last 7 bolt shot a rod through the oil pan on #3, because it walked, and the balance shaft belt snapped.

So save your money up and build it right.

the problem is , I am in Panama central america , not able to get the parts easy, and the cost is more higher, i saw several profile that people runing 7 bolt engine with internals mods and not problem at all?

what possibilites are that my car never had that kind of issues in 130k miles and just change the main cap bearing, forged piston and rings, metal HG , ARP studs and new 272 cams, am going to get CW?

any recommendation from people that did that before on 7 bolt?

 

[mattspyder]

Yeah I was thinking about going with the t28. I still have my t25 so that would be good plus Id sell my t04b vtrim so i'd probably make some money there and sell my 650's. I do have 3" exhaust w/ no cat. I have a mits metal head gasket on right now so when I do the rebuild will I have to buy another one. Its probably only got 1000 miles on it if that.

 

[MyÜberFastGSX]

Well the engine is either gonna cw or its not. If you already have 130k on it, then it probably won't. Mine did, so I had to get a new block anyway. So I got a 6 bolt. Your call. But just think about the long term.

 

[mattspyder]

Thats true on his part but on my part which is a 99. how many cases of cw are in 99's.
As far the the turbo goes the damn t-28 turbos as almost 1000 bucks and the evoIII big 16g is about 5-600.. would it not be a better idea to go with the evoIII.

 

[kenamond]

Thats true on his part but on my part which is a 99. how many cases of cw are in 99's.
As far the the turbo goes the damn t-28 turbos as almost 1000 bucks and the evoIII big 16g is about 5-600.. would it not be a better idea to go with the evoIII.

$765 at forced performance. Call them and see about a core exchange from your T25.

Search the forums to find out about the evo3big16g, as you need an install kit for that turbo. Although the turbo itself is cheaper, when you add in all of the install kit parts, folks say it's about dead even in price. The FPB28 is bolt-on; every part of it that connects to your car is exactly the same as the T25.

Either way you go, I recommend replacing the turbo/mani bolts. While you're at it, replace the stud/nut with a bolt to make it easier to drop the turbo in the future (1 of the 4 turbo/mani connectors is a stud/nut, the other 3 are bolts). The stud/nut makes dropping the turbo a pain.

Also, you may want a new turbo/mani and turbo/O2 gasket.

Upgrading your oil supply line to braided SS is recommended, though I haven't had problems with the stocker.

You also need the oil return tube gaskets (tube goes from turbo to oil pan). There's one on each end of the return tube, and THEY ARE DIFFERENT!

Do you plan on any porting work? Think about it, because you'll already have everything torn apart, and it'll help with spoolup and maybe higher rev flow (small A/R turbine housings can't flow as much air, so they peter out at high rpm when the exhaust flow is much greater). If you want to do some porting, there are some other parts you'll have to add to the bill.

Let me know what you decide, and I'll see if I can help.