Spun a bearing on the 2g

[dyablo]

Well last week after some good times, my 2g 7bolt spun a rod bearing on the 2nd piston from the timming belt. Took engine out, removed oil pan and found no bearing what so ever top or bottom of the piston rod conecting to crank . Only little metal shavings every where. Oil pump sproket seems like it almost seized up. Oil fiter had only shavings in it. What im wondeirng is, did this bearing completely fall apart or did it just disapear ? Well took the crank out and droped it off at a machine shop, the guy said he can fix it for me I would just need size 30 bearings. So im like ok, looked the up SBR and extreme found some clevite .30 under bearings and might as well do main bearings also. Now I have some questions, while searching around I decided to get rods/pistons. Gonig with eagle rods/weisco pistons. Now I dont remember what combo it was that said i would need 6bolt rod bearings? any idea? And since im going all out beaings/rods/pistosn/gaskets/ARP everything. Which is the safest way to removing all the metal shavings from block? And should i send my turbo in to get it cleaned out? E3 16G by the way. Thanks all info welcomed.

 

[dyablo]

Also, I was reading a couple threads and is it necessary to deck the head and block? And should i bore(.10,.20,.30) the block and have it honed(sp)? Thanks.

 

[adrian2627]

mitsu cranks are not servicable accoding to mitsubishi. A very debatable topic since a lot of people here run cut cranks including myself. If it was me though id start with a good fresh uncut crank from karking or something (i dont mean to advertise, just a recommendation)

 

[adrian2627]

If your block and head isnt flat, then the machine shop will have to deck it to be able to have a good/perfect seal in between the head and block. oversize bore can be determined by you machine shop, if he can get away with honing because the bores are still good, then you dont need oversize pistons. If they are pitted or gouged then boring will be the solution.

 

[dyablo]

Talked to the person doing all the machine work and he is going to cut the crank to .30 rod bearings, and i think he said .10 main beairngs cant remember. Head and block are going to get decked. Head also is going to get a 3 angle valve job, check all valves as it appears that the piston that spun the bearing could have hit the vlaves. Block is going thru the jet wash to remove excesive oil spils, bore out to not sure yet (.10, .20, .30) to gain cubic inches he said. And of course honed, blah blah blah. All that machine work for just under 500 dollars. Now my question is is there is negative side to going to big on pistons? My machinest(sp) just said "up to you if you want bigger pisstons all depending on who you want to beat" with a smile on his face. Dont get me wrong this guy has a good reputation around town for building good/fast engines. I just didnt want to look like a complete idiot infront of him.

 

[Quasimondo]

Best way to remove the remaining bearing bits is to get it hot tanked, which the machinist should be doing anyway before he does anything to it.

Have the block bored out the minimum needed to get the cylinders in shape. Getting the block overbored isn't going to do much (if anything at all) to add additional power. Most folks go with a .020" over to get their blocks back into shape, you shouldn't need to go any more than that. You don't have to increase displacement to make power either. Turbochargers are the replacement for displacement.

 

[DJYoshaBYD]

your getting all that done for 500? That seems like a hella good deal...

 

[SlickGSX]

Go .40 over and get the block o-ringed too Just remember, if you go .40 over and manage to destroy motor again, you will have to get another block.