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oil return line on evoIII16g

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myeclipseisnice

15+ Year Contributor
381
1
Sep 2, 2003
south river, New Jersey
Hey how is everyone doing? I have my evoIII16g turbo on there and when I installed it back last summer it came with the whole kit and all as fas as bolts, lines, etc... Well one of the parts that came with the kit was the oil return line (j looking). I took my stock silver j oil return line off and replaced it with the one my turbo came with which was 2 blocks with threads that threads into the turbo and the oil pan, a rubber hose that connect the 2 threaded blocks, Im sure you guys know what I am talking about. Anyway mine is leaking very bad and i was to replace it... My question is since i have the evo3 16g turbo can i still mount the stock one? or is there another brand or another one aftermarket that works better as far as leaks? any info would be appreciated thanks


take care :dsm:
 
Yes you can use the stocker, thats what most do & how I did mine with the evoIII. The bolt spacing is slightly different on the mitsu turbo vs the stock garrett t25 so you have to file the bolt holes on the flange abit. Just use the evoIII return gasket as a guide & you should be set.
 
Hey how is everyone doing? I have my evoIII16g turbo on there and when I installed it back last summer it came with the whole kit and all as fas as bolts, lines, etc... Well one of the parts that came with the kit was the oil return line (j looking). I took my stock silver j oil return line off and replaced it with the one my turbo came with which was 2 blocks with threads that threads into the turbo and the oil pan, a rubber hose that connect the 2 threaded blocks, Im sure you guys know what I am talking about. Anyway mine is leaking very bad and i was to replace it... My question is since i have the evo3 16g turbo can i still mount the stock one? or is there another brand or another one aftermarket that works better as far as leaks? any info would be appreciated thanks


take care :dsm:

How's it goin man??? Well, I'm sorry to hear that your oil return line setup is leaking... You may use your stock 2G oil return line, but you have to FILE THE HOLES MORE OUTWARDS to match your TD05 Oil drain flange. Make sure you take your time when you do this, and USE A NEW TURBO TO OIL DRAIN LINE GASKET, My first time doing this, I just did it half fast and ended up leaking badly... seriously though, just file the holes out, or use a dremel tool and match your the oil drain outlet on the turbo, or just go to Mitsubishi and grab a 1st gen oil return line gasket, then copy that.

If worse comes to worse, just go to the junkyard and grab a 1st gen oil return line, it's direct bolt fit, and still buy new gaskets though, don't just settle with rtv stuff.. You don't wanna chance leaking there because it'll cause you much more pain and you'll hate breathing in burnt oil smoke ### it'll leak straight onto your downpipe.. :nono:

Hope this helps man... If I still had my extra 1st gen oil return line, I'd send it to ya, but just sold it...

Take care!!:thumb:

Mark
 
Yes you can use the stocker, thats what most do & how I did mine with the evoIII. The bolt spacing is slightly different on the mitsu turbo vs the stock garrett t25 so you have to file the bolt holes on the flange abit. Just use the evoIII return gasket as a guide & you should be set.

Agreed. In addition to new return line gaskets as mentioned don't forget to replace the copper crush washers for the bolts that go to the oil pan. They are 6mm, although 1/4" will also work.
 
I hate the 2g return tupe on 16g's. Maybe it was becasue I tried fileing the return turbo while it was connected to the oil pan, got metal in my eye and had to have it scaped out with a needle at the urgent care... Either way, I'd just spend the $30 for a new 91 return tube and gaskets.. Just my 2psi..

Scott
 
thanks guys! ok im alittle confused. You guys said file holes more outward... i dont know what that means, sorry.. i understand on how to file it but im not following on where to file it... so a 1g return line will bolt on but a 2g will need to be filed right? also i will get new gasket... i know there is a gasket on the oil pan side is there one on the turbo side? the copper lock washers.... can i use regular lock washers (silver ones?) and use the gasket not the rtv stuff right? cus i have rtv looking at me right here on my desk LOL.... thanks :thumb:


p.s. do you mean this about the filing? you have 2 bolt holes on the turbo side... lets say with a space of 1inch between each hole.... the other pipe i will be getting is lets say little shorter then an inch, so open the holes alittle with like a drill bit and then bolt it on?

hey i also saw these... which one would be the ideal one?

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=17657&cat=1007&page=1

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=19147&cat=1007&page=1
 
thanks guys! ok im alittle confused. You guys said file holes more outward... i dont know what that means, sorry.. i understand on how to file it but im not following on where to file it... so a 1g return line will bolt on but a 2g will need to be filed right? also i will get new gasket... i know there is a gasket on the oil pan side is there one on the turbo side? the copper lock washers.... can i use regular lock washers (silver ones?) and use the gasket not the rtv stuff right? cus i have rtv looking at me right here on my desk LOL.... thanks :thumb:


p.s. do you mean this about the filing? you have 2 bolt holes on the turbo side... lets say with a space of 1inch between each hole.... the other pipe i will be getting is lets say little shorter then an inch, so open the holes alittle with like a drill bit and then bolt it on?

1) You are correct in your "p.s." note. The distance between the bolt holes on the bottom of the turbo for the return line does not match the bolt holes in the flange that will mate up to it. So you need to modify the holes in the flange with a file or drill bit so that the bolt holes will align.

2) Yes, there are identical gaskets for both ends of the return pipe. Using RTV alone is not very reliable.

3) Not lock washers, copper crush washers. Copper because it is a soft metal and when you torque the bolt down the copper will deform to fill any distortion/imperfection between the bolt head and the flange. If you don't use these you will likely develop a leak through the bolt holes as the oil tends to find it's way past the bolt threads. Some guys even seal the threads with teflon tape or pipe dope to prevent this although it is not necessary.

Hope this helps.:thumb:
 
I thought you still had your stock 2G pipe that you were going to use, hence the hole filing.

If you want to get a stock 1G pipe then you won't have to alter the bolt holes as they are already correctly spaced for that turbo.

I have never had a problem with the stock pipes but some guys have had theirs crack since they are not very flexible. Some guys will cut out the center "accordion" flex portion and use a section of fuel hose in its place. That would end up being similar to the setup shown in the first link but would obviously cost you less making your own. The downside with this is that now you have doubled the number of potential leak areas (4 instead of 2 total connections). Still many have done this without any problems.

The one shown in the 2nd link I'm not familiar with but it looks high quality if you want to spend the money. But again there are more connections which can potentially leak.

Personally I would just reuse your 2G pipe as initially suggested. Just don't bend it around too much and you should be fine. Don't forget the gaskets and crush washers.
 
thanks for the advice... i dont have my stock one no more. so most likely either junk yard or dealer... not sure about junkyard cus it might be cracked where they always crack.. wonder what the dealer charges im sure like a gazillion dollars.
 
ok so i got my return tube... part number md189736 and i thought that was for straight up bolt on for a 16evo3 turbo? but up by the turbo. the holes dont match up. so i guess i got the wrong one which sucks. so can i elongate the holes? will it still leak? cus the holes are kinda wide now... i know that the oil is going from the tubo to the oil pan. so if any leaks it would leak more towards the pan side. but the holes look too big where i have to use the regular bolt, and also a washer then a bigger washer... guess just put it on and see if it leaks... i dont know anymore... take care
 
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