Greddy Type S bov....this is weird

[wilddog]

I plan on running higher boost and wanted to ensure if the type s could handle around 20 psi. So I connected a pressure regulator to my compressor, and connected the regulator to the bov. Well something REALLY strange happened, I adjusted the hard/soft setting so that it would hold 20psi without leaking. Well as I increased pressure to 25psi, the leaking stopped and when I decreased pressure to 10 psi, the leaking got even worse . Can someone please explain whats going on? I just think the valve isnt seating properly. Cheers

 

[red_devil]

Do you have the lower nipple hooked up? if not the adjustment screw doesn't do anything.

A type S should be able to handle around 23psi maybe more. As to your problem I dont know what it could be.

 

[Spooling99]

Have you tried to do the single spring mod?

 

[daren_p]

Do you have the lower nipple hooked up? if not the adjustment screw doesn't do anything.

This is untrue, you don't need the lower nipple hooked up for the adjustment screw to operate. The lower nipple is only if you want a quick acting valve & you hook it up if you want the valve to operate like how the factory valve operates. This will also decrease the max amount of boost you can run without leaking.

20 psi isn't all that much, most of the time the valve will hold 20 psi no problem, even with the adjustment screw al the weakest setting.

Why would he want to try the single spring mod? You do this if your spring tension is too tight & your having issues with the valve not blowing off correctly.

How exactly did you have it connected up & where all did you apply pressure?

 

[wilddog]

This is untrue, you don't need the lower nipple hooked up for the adjustment screw to operate. The lower nipple is only if you want a quick acting valve & you hook it up if you want the valve to operate like how the factory valve operates. This will also decrease the max amount of boost you can run without leaking.

20 psi isn't all that much, most of the time the valve will hold 20 psi no problem, even with the adjustment screw al the weakest setting.

Why would he want to try the single spring mod? You do this if your spring tension is too tight & your having issues with the valve not blowing off correctly.

How exactly did you have it connected up & where all did you apply pressure?

I used a compressor and a REALLY expensive pressure regulator from my work. I applied to the bov very slowly at the weakest setting, then I began turning the allan key until the air was escaping at about 20psi. But when I prought the pressure up to 28psi the Leaking would STOP and when I brought the pressure down to 15 psi, the leaking owuld START
This makes no sense too me. UNless the valve isnt seating properly

 

[luvmygst]

Can you post a pic of the setup you are using to test this? Where are you applying the pressures to?

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

The bottom nipple on the Type is is for the fast acting valve, but using it is alwaysbetter not worse. Alot of people who use the type S get upset because they have to adjust the bov softer to let the valve open but the problem is it leaks...and if you set it hard to stop the leak, you get compressor surge as its it to hard to open. WHat some will do is remove one of the springs inside to make the bov easier to open, but you now have the same leaking issue.

Using the bottom nipple to an ALL BOOST SOURCE ( between turbo and TB plate ) not after the throttle body plate, will allow you to leave the bov on the hardest setting with out getting a hint of compressor surge.

What it does is allow the built up pressure in the Intercooler piping when you close the throttle plate to build UNDER the diaphram and BLOW the valve open , rather that JUST using the top nipple ( which gets an after TB plate position ) to PULL the valve open.

Recap: Only using the top nipple will make JUST the vaccume in the intakemani pull the valve open. SO must leave the BOV at a softer setting and it will leak.

Setting the BOV harder so it wont leak, make is to hard for just the VAC in the IM to open the bov so you get surge.

Using both nipples CORRECTLY will allow for the use of the harderst setting ( no leaks ) and the ease of opening as if it were on the softest setting ( no compressor surge ).

Make sense?

 

[daren_p]

I used a compressor and a REALLY expensive pressure regulator from my work. I applied to the bov very slowly at the weakest setting, then I began turning the allan key until the air was escaping at about 20psi. But when I prought the pressure up to 28psi the Leaking would STOP and when I brought the pressure down to 15 psi, the leaking owuld START
This makes no sense too me. UNless the valve isnt seating properly

Is the bov installed on the car & are you just applying pressure to the pressure port on the top of the valve or are you applying pressure to the whole ic system like you normally would when doing a boost leak test?

 

[FenixTX717]

The bottom nipple on the Type is is for the fast acting valve, but using it is alwaysbetter not worse. Alot of people who use the type S get upset because they have to adjust the bov softer to let the valve open but the problem is it leaks...and if you set it hard to stop the leak, you get compressor surge as its it to hard to open. WHat some will do is remove one of the springs inside to make the bov easier to open, but you now have the same leaking issue.

Using the bottom nipple to an ALL BOOST SOURCE ( between turbo and TB plate ) not after the throttle body plate, will allow you to leave the bov on the hardest setting with out getting a hint of compressor surge.

What it does is allow the built up pressure in the Intercooler piping when you close the throttle plate to build UNDER the diaphram and BLOW the valve open , rather that JUST using the top nipple ( which gets an after TB plate position ) to PULL the valve open.

Recap: Only using the top nipple will make JUST the vaccume in the intakemani pull the valve open. SO must leave the BOV at a softer setting and it will leak.

Setting the BOV harder so it wont leak, make is to hard for just the VAC in the IM to open the bov so you get surge.

Using both nipples CORRECTLY will allow for the use of the harderst setting ( no leaks ) and the ease of opening as if it were on the softest setting ( no compressor surge ).

Make sense?

yes except for where do you run a line from the bottum nipple too? I never understood where to run the line too so i never use it but now I want to use it ### of these simple problems that can be easily fixed.....is there a picture or could someone explain where to run a line from the bottum of the nipple to wherever it goes too.....??????

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

yes except for where do you run a line from the bottum nipple too? I never understood where to run the line too so i never use it but now I want to use it ### of these simple problems that can be easily fixed.....is there a picture or could someone explain where to run a line from the bottum of the nipple to wherever it goes too.....??????

Anywhere before the throttle body like a J pipe nipple or a nipple on the compressor housing of the turbo....Just not ON the throttle body or anywhere on the intake manifold. Understand?

 

[StR8sPo0Ln]

Good thing i found this thread since i have a type s on my car. I am going to a FMIC and full fuel setup. Right now im at 15psi on my mbc, and wanted to know when i move up to 20 psi where to set my bov at.

 

[daren_p]

Good thing i found this thread since i have a type s on my car. I am going to a FMIC and full fuel setup. Right now im at 15psi on my mbc, and wanted to know when i move up to 20 psi where to set my bov at.

Probably at its weekest setting. Do a boost leak test with it at its lowest setting & check for leaks. If you hear nothing/fell nothing your good. If you have a leak tighten it abit till the leak stops. You don't want to over tighten it as the valve will stop blowing off correctly. If it doesn't release in one sold burst you have it adjust too tight & need to losen it ablit. If you notice you also get surging at part throttle conditions, the spring is also adjusted too tight.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Good thing i found this thread since i have a type s on my car. I am going to a FMIC and full fuel setup. Right now im at 15psi on my mbc, and wanted to know when i move up to 20 psi where to set my bov at.

Yep, Just connect the lower Nipple correctly and set the BOV to Full hard. The Spring tension will hold down the equalized pressure on each side of the diaphram, while the built pressure will over power everything when you let off the throttle. This is only if the bottom nipple is used correctly though.

Im just stopping over inbetween studying here so I will go super indepth tomorrow with some drawings if you guys are lucky If you feel like it seach SSQV or SSQ or anything BOV and check out some of the older threads we have gone over this in...its GREAT info.

 

[wilddog]

How exactly did you have it connected up & where all did you apply pressure?

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bov is not hooked up to the car. I wanted to pressure test it, so I brought it to 20psi and tightened the screw until it stopped leaking, but when I varied the pressure, I got the crazy results I described.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Ok it looks like your doing this all wrong. 1. It has to be on the car. 2. I think your using the bottom nipple judging by your drawing Let me explaint this:

We will break down the intake track into 2 parts Turbo to throttle body and throttle body to intake manifold. When you boost, the pressure fills EVERYTHING up, both parts. Since your TOP nipple is hooked up to the intake manifold the pressure that is in there goes through the vac line into the head of the BOV and pressureizes it to what ever PSI you are running, BUT at the same time in the intercooler piping the same amount of pressure is built on the underside of the BOV's piston. That will now cancel out the pressure in the Top chamber with the force being applied to the bottom of the piston because they are each being applied with the equal amount of force. When that happens all you have holding the Type S closed are the 2 springs. Since the surface area and exposure on the underside of the piston in the intercooler pipign is greater than that of the top chambers diaphram and flow....it will eventually leak more and more as you up the boost higher and higher. So to slow down the leaking or postpone it, we try to tighten the adjustment screw, but no matter what the type S will eventually leak. We may not run enough boost for it to beable to leak on full hard, but if we could it would. The main problem in doing that is now that it doesnt leak, out vehicle dont exhert enough Vac to counter the harndess setting and open the BOV.

When you let of the throttle the intake manifold seem about -20 vac and since the top pf the BOV is connected to the Intake manifold so does the bov and the vaccume will such the diaphram up and open the bov...but like I said before if you set it to full hard that vaccume wont be enough to open the valve and you will get compressor surge. However, the pressure in the intercooler piping skyrockets when we close the throttle, the turbo is still boostin for a sec when we let off but the TB is closed and the pressure has no where to go but out the BOV. So why not take that pressuer that builds and use it to open the valve quicker? You should by hooking up the bottom nipple to the intercooler piping. That extra pressure in the piping when we let off and the TB is closed gets concentrated under the diaphram and blowsd it open milliseconds after we let off. Some will say well the valve sees this pressure int he intercooler piping too...shouldnt that help blow it open? Yes it should just Greddy put the bottom nipple there for a reason.

So bottom line Put the BOV on the car like normal and then pressurize the system to your desired PSI ( Boost gauge ) and adjust accordingly if you dont want to do the bottom nipple mod. You have to have it hooked up like it is supposed to be though. Goodluck.

 

[mnetwork]

Great info, I think I'm gonna do this now that I'm running higher boost. I guess I'll have to install a nipple? because the on on my j-pipe is being used for the mbc and there are no other nipples until the tb and the intake manifold.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Great info, I think I'm gonna do this now that I'm running higher boost. I guess I'll have to install a nipple? because the on on my j-pipe is being used for the mbc and there are no other nipples until the tb and the intake manifold.

You can T off of it, I have no Ill effects. It works GREAT

 

[mnetwork]

I don't have to worry about the mbc acting weird or not working right?

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

I don't have to worry about the mbc acting weird or not working right?

No, nothing should happen. If you do, for some stupid reason notice a spike, then just add another nipple to the J pipe. Im running mine both off of one nipple from the J pipe and all is well.

 

[Killa_dsm]

Ok so if we attach the bottle nipple do we have to take out one of the springs and set it to the hardest setting?

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Ok so if we attach the bottle nipple do we have to take out one of the springs and set it to the hardest setting?

Leave the springs in

 

[daren_p]

bov is not hooked up to the car. I wanted to pressure test it, so I brought it to 20psi and tightened the screw until it stopped leaking, but when I varied the pressure, I got the crazy results I described.

I didn't completely read EclipseTrbo420A reply but it sounded like he was going in the right direction. Just applying presure to the bottom of the valve or just the nipple won't tell you anything as far as how the valve will react on the car. Easiest way is to have the valve installed & do a boost leak test to see what it will hold. If you only apply pressure to one side of the internal diaphragm your not going to get the results your looking for.

 

[daren_p]

Great info, I think I'm gonna do this now that I'm running higher boost. I guess I'll have to install a nipple? because the on on my j-pipe is being used for the mbc and there are no other nipples until the tb and the intake manifold.

If you use the second port on the BOV this actually lowers the maximum amount of boost you can run. This is why you have to crank down the adjusting bolt to get the same results as only running the top port & the bolt adjusted lose. What the second port does is makes the valve quicker acting, like the 1g valve. You only need to hook up the second port if you are having issues with you valve not blowing off properly or have surge issues under part throttle conditions. If you want it to hold the maximum amount of boost you only run the top port. Either top port & adjusted lose or both ports & adjusted tight should hold ~20 psi no problem.

 

[talontedtsi1995]

what if i have the stock boost controller and lower ic pipe..what could i hook the bottom nipple to? thanks

 

[daren_p]

what if i have the stock boost controller and lower ic pipe..what could i hook the bottom nipple to? thanks

Its usually best to have the BOV feeding from its own source & not having a boost controller off the same line. So if your running the stock soft LICP, thats not an option. Depending on which turbo your running you can drill & tapp the comp cover or if your running a hard upper ic pipe you can drill & tapp that. This is where the 1g gets its source from, have you ever noticed that small hole to the one side of the BOV inlet?