Fiberglass uicp and elbow, Will it work?

[Pyrice4]

I still have the stock intake elbow and uicp. Both are crappy and have a small diameter. I was going to try to fabricate a fiberglass upper intercooler pipe and throttle body elbow. My only concern that is wont work is heat. Are the temperatures of the intake air and engine bay enough to melt or deform fiberglass. I dont want fiberglass going into my engine. Could I coat the fiberglass in a heat resistant paint or metallic tape(used for exhaust pipe repair)? What does everyone think?

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

I would not want it to explode under pressure...just buy some piping and fab it up that way.

 

[Cs4g63]

Im not sure but I believe it would be fine to try it out. If fiberglass hoods can survive the heat then its possible that an UICP can survive. Just pull it off and check everything after you have run it through some heat cycles.

 

[romeen]

I don't have much experience with fiberglass but I would have a couple of concerns, both of which might lead to stress fractures/cracks in the fiberglass.

1) The frequent expansion and contraction from engine heat will cause alot of thermal stress which may lead to failure of the pipe.

2) The constant vibrations from the engine. Especially since, in essence, one end of the pipe is attached to a frame mounted piece (intercooler which is stabilized) and the other end is attached to an engine component which vibrates. If you really do want to do this use hump hose silicone couplers as they have more "give" to absorb movement.

It sounds like a lot of work for questionable results but maybe you like the challenge.

 

[JayRolla]

Try it and see what happens.

 

[romeen]

Another consideration is if it does begin to crack or break apart then you will be getting pieces of fiberglass sucked into the motor.

 

[JayRolla]

Another consideration is if it does begin to crack or break apart then you will be getting pieces of fiberglass sucked into the motor.

Ohh damn didnt think of that, yea I would not do it.

 

[1g_tsi_awd]

I say, just fab up some metal tubing... Fiberglass is risky.

 

[Pyrice4]

Ok, I dont think im going to try it. I dont have enough money to rebuild my engine if it doesnt work. I have some leftover fiberglass and bondo from doing my interior panels and I want to fabricate something up. Does anyone have any ideas they would like to see done?

 

[kenamond]

Ok, I dont think im going to try it. I dont have enough money to rebuild my engine if it doesnt work. I have some leftover fiberglass and bondo from doing my interior panels and I want to fabricate something up. Does anyone have any ideas they would like to see done?

Fab up a NACA duct insert, cut a hole in your hood, and mount the duct into the hood for a cold air intake.

And only drive when it's not raining.

 

[Pyrice4]

Fab up a NACA duct insert, cut a hole in your hood, and mount the duct into the hood for a cold air intake.

And only drive when it's not raining.

My hood had a few dents up front so I replaced it. Now I have an extra hood to do whatever with so I think I might try a functional hood scoop or something. I not sure if I like the style of the NACA ducts, something like this. http://www.968s.com/images/bodywork/nacaclose.jpg. I was thinking a ram air type thing, or add another hump and put scoops on the front of both to make it symetrical.

 

[pnishr]

Of course, the idea of it cracking and blowing apart under pressure implies one thing... pressure... this is pressure that is applied outward on the pipe from the inside.

Besides, it's nothing that a first layer of that mesh you use to bondo over holes in your car wouldn't fix. Apply that first, then continue to fiberglass the tube. The mesh should help to ensure MORE uniform force along the body of the pipe, AND keep sh1t from being sucked in IF it broke. The beauty of the cylinder is it's AMAZING resistance to pressure, especially if we're talking uniform pressure (which it is, form the inside)

I still think it's a worthwhile idea. Hell, even if you just built it, plugged one end with a pressure gauge, and the other with a boost-leak tester, you could pump it up and see how long it'd take to blow. Granted, heat would be a different part of the equation, but...

I think it's a cool idea, don't let all the nay-sayers dissuade you. Just be prudent about it before putting it on your car (as you would any part)

Way to be creative!

 

[Pyrice4]

I might still make it. If i do heres how I will test it: Cap off both ends, pressurize it to around 20psi (more than my car will see for now) and secure it somewere in the engine bay. After being in there for a week or so of driving around ill test the pressure. If it hasnt blown up or melted and still has close to 20psi, I know it will work as an intake pipe. Fiberglass is probably lighter than metal, I could make a one piece uicp, and I wouldnt have to weld anything.

 

[kenamond]

My hood had a few dents up front so I replaced it. Now I have an extra hood to do whatever with so I think I might try a functional hood scoop or something. I not sure if I like the style of the NACA ducts, something like this. http://www.968s.com/images/bodywork/nacaclose.jpg. I was thinking a ram air type thing, or add another hump and put scoops on the front of both to make it symetrical.

I almost added, "but that'd look kinda dumb". I agree that a NACA duct doesn't look right on any car other than a race car or high-end supercar. I was reading through my Carroll Smith, "Tune To Win" book a few minutes before and had just seen the NACA duct dimensions page.

I agree with what the other guy said: fibreglass is stronger per pound than steel if you get enough of the resin out of it, and there are resins which can withstand the engine bay temps. There could be issues with fatigue cracking of the resin where it is cantilevered off of the TB, so I'd recommend beefing up the elbow and mating it to a steel or aluminum flange (don't know if it'll crack if you make a fiberglass flange and try to torque it down). The worst stresses will be at the ends of the pipe.

You could also use the glass to make a cold air intake box that conforms to the sheet metal of the body. I know folks have just used masking tape over the sheet metal to fab up fiberglass amp racks and sub enclosures; cheap way to get the right mold.

 

[Pyrice4]

Ok, this is my plan. Make a 2.5" diameter tube out of metal screen-like material. Coat that in a layer of fiberglass, inside and out. Then put several layers of resin/fabric stuff over that, then another layer of metal screen and a final layer of fiberglass. Sand inside and out real good. I can fiberglass a bov flange into the pipe also. Then hook it up to the ic and intake elbow(ill need a larger one) with silicone couplers. The metal screen will help strengthen the piping alot I think. Does anyone see any flaws in this?

 

[LordZed]

Ok, this is my plan. Make a 2.5" diameter tube out of metal screen-like material. Coat that in a layer of fiberglass, inside and out. Then put several layers of resin/fabric stuff over that, then another layer of metal screen and a final layer of fiberglass. Sand inside and out real good. I can fiberglass a bov flange into the pipe also. Then hook it up to the ic and intake elbow(ill need a larger one) with silicone couplers. The metal screen will help strengthen the piping alot I think. Does anyone see any flaws in this?

There is no way in that you will be able to form a perfect resin tube free of flaws that pressure can build in without failing in someway. That being said. Try it and test it off the car like you said Just for fun!

 

[Defiant]

You're not building a cannon barrel. There's no need for screening. Coat a piece of PVC with wax, do two layers of cloth over it with the weave running diagonally, leave enough length that you have room to trim. Remove the pipe after curing. The part will outlive you.

Or, skip all the crap and just stay with muffler tubing.

 

[Pyrice4]

I guess there are not enough advantages to using fiberglass, metal piping is alot easier and probably works just as well. I still want to try a hood scoop or something like that but Ill open a new thread for that later if someone else hasnt already done so.