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t25 to 14b

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rich3389

15+ Year Contributor
993
6
Dec 27, 2006
Ocean springs, Mississippi
i have a 2g with t25 here are my mods so far...
intake, dave brode UICP, 1g BOV, MBC, boost gauge ofcourse:rolleyes: Now im thining about getting a 14b turbo off ebay or something, but before i do that i am gonna get a datalogger. What do i need to get a 14b hooked up correctly? J Pipe? and how is the stock fuel with a 14b?
 
Wherre as I cannot say what you need to install the 14b on there. The car I have came with the 14b already on it. I can tell you what I have done to me fuel system with that turbo. I have a rewired 3000 GT Twin Turbo fuel pump. Which is very close to the 225 Walbros. I have a -6AN SS fuel line coming from a large 10 Micron fuel filter to replace the stock OEM one. Stock injectors for right now. Performs very well I might add. :D I am also running boosts at 10 PSI (low) and 15 PSI (High) Hope this helps some.

~Eddie
 
Easiest way to do it right is get a 2g installation kit that comes witht he J pipe, oil lines, water lines and gaskets to fit properly for your set up. They sell them anywhere online for more information just search "14b installation" or go to www.vfaq.com, hope that helps

Tim
 
im going to "clock" mine. I took the compressor housing off, and there is this notch and little round key that fit together to keep the housing in one place. either add another notch or remove that key and you can clock it and keep it in the factory position. Also, you will need a huge snap ring plier.
 
if you clock it, the waste gate will need to have a bracket made for mounting... a J-PIPE is a much easier route, just trying to help.... do you have stock SMIC or FMIC?
 
yea im gonna use the stock SMIC for now...but before the turbo install im gonna get a walbro 190 lph, and a datalogger. With the walbro 190, do i need a safc or anything, can i just drop it in and rewire it and will it be ok?
 
yea im gonna use the stock SMIC for now...but before the turbo install im gonna get a walbro 190 lph, and a datalogger. With the walbro 190, do i need a safc or anything, can i just drop it in and rewire it and will it be ok?

Drop in the pump and go. Later if you want to regulate it better you can. A 190 shouldn't over flow your stock FPR. If you keep the boost below 15 psi you shouldn't need more than a fuel pump. Just be careful and plan on upping your injectors and tuning with @ least an AFC.

When I went from T-25 to 14B I got a Slow Boy install kit for a little under $200. I think. Great fit, fairly straight forward install. it was my first turbo swap about 3 years ago it took about 4 hours or more.

It was a noticable increase in power from t25 @ 15psi to 14B @ 15. I got my 14B for free... so It was a good deal.

Good luck. :dsm: :thumb:
 
Larger injectors are great (with tuning of course), but just wanted to point out that the stock 450cc's are more than capable of handling anything the 14b can dish out. I also believe the same goes for a stock re-wired fuel pump.
 
Piper's right. I'm on the 14b at about 16-17psi on the stock 450s and a rewired 190lph and am only seeing a max of 80% IDC, so the 450's will be okay.

Clocking a 14b or 16g is kinda pointless, since you still need a flanged pipe for the compressor outlet. Now, you could use the stock compressor outlet elbow that came on stock 1g's, but it's extremely restrictive. Also, as c4uld0n pointed out, the wastegate actuator won't be in the right spot. It's much easier to just bolt on a J-pipe.

Install kits are nice. I went with RRE's full install kit when I installed my 14b. If you think you can handle it, they also sell a cheaper "hacker/tweaker" install kit that includes only the must-replace parts, figuring that you can re-use or re-work some of the stock parts. If you follow the VFAQs for a 16g installation, they'll also explain what parts and tools you'll need.

Note, you'll probably want to replace the mani-turbo stud with a bolt and two washers. I went the safe route and just replaced all of them at the same time. You can order those from a dealership of a vendor. Also, if you're handy with a die grinder and a carbide bit, you'll want to port the 14b turbine housing inlet, and if you're using your 2g O2 housing (I should hope you are; it flows better) then you'll need to port that to match the bell-shaped wastegate exit area that the 14b has. The T25 wastegate exit area is more kidney bean-shaped. Use a spare 14b/O2 housing gasket to port-match it.

Good luck and keep us updated.
 
no need to clock your 14B, that is what the J-PIPE is for


**EDIT**

T25 = ~300CFM
14B = ~400CFM

What are the exact specs? Ive seen it posted at 250 and 450.

How much more flow do you get after slapping a grinder around in there? Just curious

Im gonna port my 14b so it flows around 750cfm :sneaky:





Disclaimer: For those who cant understand jokes, that is one :beatentodeath:
 
Yup, with that kit you'll be good. You'll just need to bend the stock water lines as well as file down the bolts on the oil return line a bit to make it fit. Unless you get a 1g return line and 1g water lines but that's not necessary.
 
What are the exact specs? Ive seen it posted at 250 and 450.

How much more flow do you get after slapping a grinder around in there? Just curious

Im gonna port my 14b so it flows around 750cfm :sneaky:





Disclaimer: For those who cant understand jokes, that is one :beatentodeath:


I raise your dead horse and raise you correct numbers...

T-25 (2G): 325 CFM @ 15 psi
TD04-13G (1G AT): 360 CFM @ 15 psi
TD05-14B (1G MT): 405 CFM @ 15 psi
TD05-16G (Small): 505 CFM @ 15 psi
FP Big 28: 520 CFM @ 15 psi
TD05-16G (Big): 550 CFM @ 15 psi
TD06-20G: 650 CFM @ 15 psi
 
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