EGT gauge - I need help choosing

[turbodsm18]

I want to buy an Autometer EGT gauge but I want to use the TRE probe cause everyone says its the best one.

Should I buy the kit from Autometer (gauge, wiring, probe) + the TRE probe

OR

Should I buy just the Autometer gauge + TRE probe and maybe a few feet of EGT wiring from TRE.

Im really just confused if the TRE probe comes with the correct wiring and also enough wiring.

Thanks in advance,

-Kevin-

 

[DSMunknown]

If you have to not worry about the math and measuring the appropriate length of the EGT wiring, just go for the Auto Meter package. That will suit you just fine.




http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3199&sid=11
http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessories.aspx?sid=47




But if you really insist on buying the EGT wiring from TRE, look at the link below. You will see that they sell the wiring by the foot, as much wiring as your little heart desires.






http://www.teamrip.com/accessories.html

 

[Midnightride]

I would also suggest getting and EGT guage that does not stop at 1600 like mine. Cause when your doing upgrades You will mostlikely see temp higher than that and you deff wanna know where you are so you can add/take fuel away.

This way you dont have to guess on what your temps are at.

 

[DSMunknown]

I would also suggest getting and EGT guage that does not stop at 1600 like mine. Cause when your doing upgrades You will mostlikely see temp higher than that and you deff wanna know where you are so you can add/take fuel away.

This way you dont have to guess on what your temps are at.

You clearly don't know what you're talking about. What you're mentioning really only applies to naturally aspirated cars. If you want to see if you are running lean or rich, get an A/F wideband (like the AEM UEGO or similar). You should never ever try to tune your car with EGT readings.

 

[Midnightride]

Are you saying at a WOT pull its ok to run 1800+ degrees on your car and stay there? If so please share why that would be ok. From every search I have done on here most of them say to stay 1650 and below and anything above that you need to let off cause the EGT are to high. I wasnt saying he should tune with it, I was saying he could use it to see how hot things were getting. If you have a logger and a way to tune then you can use the EGT temps and the logger to make adjustments.

 

[DSMunknown]

Are you saying at a WOT pull its ok to run 1800+ degrees on your car and stay there?

If you ever push your normal, everyday DSM to those limits, you've already gone too far.

From every search I have done on here most of them say to stay 1650 and below and anything above that you need to let off cause the EGT are to high.

EGT readings basically have to do with timing. Here you go:

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=151018781&postcount=8
http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=151018835&postcount=10

I wasnt saying he should tune with it, I was saying he could use it to see how hot things were getting. If you have a logger and a way to tune then you can use the EGT temps and the logger to make adjustments.

Oh really? It seems to me that you did in fact imply that EGT readings could be used for tuning purposes.

Cause when your doing upgrades You will mostlikely see temp higher than that and you deff wanna know where you are so you can add/take fuel away.

This quote is also helpful:

You need to log your timing to really find out what's going on. An EGT is only an indicator that you need to check something out.

 

[dcg9381]

I got the inexpensive gauge from gaugepods.com - same K type sender that most use.

 

[JayRolla]

I would just go with a WB02 and forget the EGT gauge.

 

[DGajre777]

I would just go with a WB02 and forget the EGT gauge.

I agree. An EGT is a warning gauge, not a tuning gauge.

 

[turbodsm18]

I agree. An EGT is a warning gauge, not a tuning gauge.

Well, I am gonna get a WBo2 gauge but I would like the EGT gauge as a warning gauge. Im ordering a dsmchip so the AF ratio will be a set value so I really want the EGT so I know when things are heating up cause my last motor blew cause I partly melted the #2 piston.

-Kevin-

 

[jumpfroggy]

EGT's are a good warning, but most likely you really want to know about knock and A/F. I've read about some situations where there could be knock but no high EGT's (forgot the circumstances), but the bottom line seems to be you can tune with Wideband and loggers and ignore the EGT, but you shouldn't do it the other way around.

I know you just want assurance that history will not repeat itself and you wont melt another piston, but my thought is this; heat did not kill your piston, knock and bad tuning did. If you get an EGT gauge you're going to measure the same problem that will kill your piston again. If you get the wideband, logger, and tune right, I would think you wouldn't even care what your EGT's are.

Also, I think on the custom chips they set the A/F, but it doesn't mean your car is guaranteed to run at that. Am I wrong? Basically they set the params so you should get the desired A/F, but you'll still need a logger to verify and a AFC to fine-tune.

Not that any of this has to do with your original question. Sorry, can't help with that one.

 

[turbodsm18]

EGT's are a good warning, but most likely you really want to know about knock and A/F. I've read about some situations where there could be knock but no high EGT's (forgot the circumstances), but the bottom line seems to be you can tune with Wideband and loggers and ignore the EGT, but you shouldn't do it the other way around.

I know you just want assurance that history will not repeat itself and you wont melt another piston, but my thought is this; heat did not kill your piston, knock and bad tuning did. If you get an EGT gauge you're going to measure the same problem that will kill your piston again. If you get the wideband, logger, and tune right, I would think you wouldn't even care what your EGT's are.

Also, I think on the custom chips they set the A/F, but it doesn't mean your car is guaranteed to run at that. Am I wrong? Basically they set the params so you should get the desired A/F, but you'll still need a logger to verify and a AFC to fine-tune.

Not that any of this has to do with your original question. Sorry, can't help with that one.

Ya, i definately see what you are saying. I have been emailing Jeff O. about the chip and from what he is saying, i beleive that above 40% throttle, I would get a 10.5:1 AFR. (Someone please verify this). Just so everyone kows, I am going to get an AFR gauge eventually (before summer) but I figured that if I knew the AFR that was preset, It was not needed right away.

As far as knock goes, I would have them use the stock boost gauge to determine knock count. I have a logger but with the 2g they dont detect knock. From what Ive learned, I do not beleive I should get knock running 18psi on a big 16g with 680 cc injectors and a 255pump with AFPR on 91 pump gas. I am going to boost leak test the car before i start running that kind of boost also.

About my old setup, Now that you mention heat probably not messing up the motor, you are probably correct. I was running about 20psi on stock fuel system, so im pretty sure It was knocking horribly.

I am going to try and run just this chip without an safc( I hate those things). I beleive that AndyMoratis (sp?) does it and said that he had no problems.

Does anyone else have any suggestions or have some answers to what i have stated?

-Kevin-

 

[DGajre777]

Kevin - Get a good 1:1 ratio adjustable fuel pressure regulator and have the chip burned for a custom fuel map of 11.5:1 A/F ratio for the injectors that you have. Don't forget to tell Jeff what fuel pressure you are running. Andy runs his car with just a chip and AFPR, if you see knock, turn the boost down or bump up the fuel pressure. I plan on running a setup similar to Andy.

 

[turbodsm18]

Kevin - Get a good 1:1 ratio adjustable fuel pressure regulator and have the chip burned for a custom fuel map of 11.5:1 A/F ratio for the injectors that you have. Don't forget to tell Jeff what fuel pressure you are running. Andy runs his car with just a chip and AFPR, if you see knock, turn the boost down or bump up the fuel pressure. I plan on running a setup similar to Andy.

I have an Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator. What do you think a good AF ratio is. I am running stock base fuel pressure with 91 octane. I beleive jeff mentioned 10.5:1 AF but others are now tellin me 11:1 AF and 11.5:1 AF. Which one is safer and will still net me some power.

-Kevin-

 

[DGajre777]

I have an Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator. What do you think a good AF ratio is. I am running stock base fuel pressure with 91 octane. I beleive jeff mentioned 10.5:1 AF but others are now tellin me 11:1 AF and 11.5:1 AF. Which one is safer and will still net me some power.

-Kevin-

The power difference between 11:1 and 11.5:1 A/F ratio is very small. I'd go with 11.5:1. I'm not sure why Jeff at DSMChips would suggest 10.5:1.