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So I Installed BC 272's..

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Shane2GSX

15+ Year Contributor
423
24
Oct 13, 2005
Louisville, Kentucky
Just as the title says, along with a mitsu mutli layer hg and ARP's. Started it up last night, and everything seemed fine. The thing sounds flat out nasty (in a good way). But, when me and my bud take it for a drive, the idle starts going crazy everytime we stop. When cruising or giving it a good amount of throttle, all seems fine. When we stop, it seems to want to die, and it did a few times. It also bucked on a few occaisions when the RPM's were approaching 1000. We pulled over and adjusted the throttle cable to remedy the problem temporarily, but we had trouble getting the RPM's to stay around 1k. They constantly fluctuate.

When we did the Cams, we did not note the orientation of the CAS (97-99), so I'm thinking that could be it, and I will try reversing it. Also, we got a CEL just before putting the car up for the night, so I'll get that checked as well.

Besides those things, does anyone else know anything else that would cause this?

BTW, timing is good, it's been double and triple checked. Thanks.
 
Tuning could also play a part. When i installed my BC 280's i could actually see the airflow show a rhythmic pulse because of the cams and minimal changes were needed. Also when major upgrades are done the ecu needs time to learn everything again. This might play a part?

What do you use to tune?

Things i'd check:
CAS
CEL
Tune
Timing (just to make absolutely sure)
Fuel Pressure ok?
 
well...get that CEL posted... that will help.... check the ignition timing....

If I am not mistaken, those 272's are pretty big, and would most likely cause your car to act funny at low RPMs... Loping idle.... Is the car still fast? does it just act funny down low in the RPMs? If the car is still fast (or faster.. haha), than I would say its caused by the lift of your cams causing the idle to lope.... time to get an SAFC, maybe?
 
Okay, I'll def get the CEL posted when it gets checked...

As far as what I'm tuning with.. in short, none.

I'm basically on stock fuel on the T25, as I haven't ordered my turbo setup yet. Fuel and DSMLink are coming.. The following are my mods done and scheduled..

Done:
NGK 6's
K & N Intake Filter
Megan Racing 3" DP and Catback
Blitz SS BOV
Hallman MBC
Megan Racing Short Throw Shifter
Symborski Shift Kit
SBR 3500 Clutch
XACT Streetlight Flywheel

Just did this W/E:
ARP Headstuds
Headgasket - Mitsubishi Multilayer
Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams (272/272)

Will be doing in a few weeks:
PLX SM-AFR Wideband
Walbro 255
AFPR Kit
FIC 850cc Injectors
DSMLink w/Socketing Service

In about a month:
3" Dejon Tool Intake
50 Trim (PTE T-Tech Ball Bearing 5031RLE)
Oil Feed Line - SS 24" W/90* Built In Bend
Oil Return Line - Rubber
38mm Tial WG
Straight Line Specialties O2 Housing (rerouted for 38 mm TIAL)
Metal O2 Housing Gasket
Port 2G Manifold & Wastegate Outlet
XS Power FMIC Kit
 
it really depends on how wild the cam is... they say that pretty much anything that says "stage 2" is going to affect idle somewhat.... you ever hear those big V8's with cams that have .500 of lift? they sound all like, bwah bwah bwah bwah... barely idling? thats what they will do.... tuning will just raise your idle and richen you up a bit so its more drivable on the street....

I wouldn't go with those HUGE 880cc injectors just yet.. never mind... I just saw that you were upgrading the turbo as well.... good form... :)
 
Yessir..........and that's a big assuming all else is okay. My car "idles" from around 700 to 900. I can't stress enough how important a tuning aid is.

If it was me i'd hold off on any more installs untill i got the link.
 
Okay, I'll def get the CEL posted when it gets checked...

As far as what I'm tuning with.. in short, none.

I'm basically on stock fuel on the T25, as I haven't ordered my turbo setup yet. Fuel and DSMLink are coming.. The following are my mods done and scheduled..

Done:
NGK 6's
K & N Intake Filter
Megan Racing 3" DP and Catback
Blitz SS BOV
Hallman MBC
Megan Racing Short Throw Shifter
Symborski Shift Kit
SBR 3500 Clutch
XACT Streetlight Flywheel

Just did this W/E:
ARP Headstuds
Headgasket - Mitsubishi Multilayer
Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams (272/272)

Will be doing in a few weeks:
PLX SM-AFR Wideband
Walbro 255
AFPR Kit
PTE 880cc Injectors
DSMLink w/Socketing Service

In about a month:
3" Dejon Tool Intake
50 Trim (PTE T-Tech Ball Bearing 5031RLE)
Oil Feed Line - SS 24" W/90* Built In Bend
Oil Return Line - Rubber
38mm Tial WG
Straight Line Specialties O2 Housing (rerouted for 38 mm TIAL)
Metal O2 Housing Gasket
Port 2G Manifold & Wastegate Outlet
XS Power FMIC Kit

That is quite the list . Lotto or tax time ? Anyway where is your logging device ? Lots of changes with no way to monitor your engine . I know you got link listed for a few weeks from now . But my car was only goiong to be down for a couple weeks with rebuild . That was in the beginning of Feburary . Wait a minute that was a year ago , :barf: . Timelines change , money runs out . Should have a logger .
 
Link is ordered, as is all of the fuel, so that's all covered.

Believe me, I know how timelines change, I've been doing this build 6 months longer than anticipated. But, I now have the time and the money..
 
I know you guys say it's normal for the idle to be lopey, but what about the car dying?? Is that perfectly normal?

Thanks again..


Cams and lightened flywheel on untuned car.. it should barely run
get your tuning device together and youll be fine.

Check the cell.
 
try turning up your static idle... ya know, the little idle screw on the TB... That should help a bit with the dying cause the car wont be idling so low
 
try turning up your static idle... ya know, the little idle screw on the TB... That should help a bit with the dying cause the car wont be idling so low

To iterate, the main reason why people turn up their idle rpm with cams is so that the engine can produce more vacuum. This is important to maintain brakes and help with not stalling when coming down from a higher rpm/stopping.
 
So I decided to adjust the BISS tonight.. well, things were going pretty good, got it to idle decent without it dying and at about 10 vacuum. So I pulled over to see if I could unscrew it a little more to make it better.......

Big mistake. I'm driving along, and I here nothing but hissing.. pull over and the BISS is gone!!

:(

I guess I'll be calling a dealer to get another one..
 
5-10 is way too low for 272's, you probably have a vacuum leak somewhere. Vacuum should be around 15 at idle with those cams. That would also explain the idle problems you're having. I would do a boost leak test just to make sure. I also wouldn't try to raise the idle higher than the factory idle setting, that can cause idle surge.

What are you using for tuning right now?
 
5-10 is way too low for 272's, you probably have a vacuum leak somewhere. Vacuum should be around 15 at idle with those cams. That would also explain the idle problems you're having. I would do a boost leak test just to make sure. I also wouldn't try to raise the idle higher than the factory idle setting, that can cause idle surge.

What are you using for tuning right now?

Agreed, I was going to say, 5-10 is pretty low for 272's. Possibly for 280's it's a little more feasible. Anyway, He listed that DSMLink is on the way. In that case, once it's up and running just click GROUND ISC and adjust your BISS the proper way. Then set your idle RPM to around 850 or 950 and you should be good to go.

Damn I love DSMLink :rocks:
 
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