high torque slave cylinder?

[janks85]

Hey guys just a quick question, I am going to replace my slave this weekend and I was at the auto store(Advance auto) and they have a TRU TORQUE slave its supposed to be a performance slave cylinder to help grab better..Does anyone have knowledge if this is true or should I buy a stock replacement, Thanks

chris

 

[Defiant]

Make them explain what's supposed to be "better". There's not many devices more simple on a modern car than the slave cylinder.

 

[absolute_DSM]

Nothin better than a stock Mitsu part. Along with what Defiant says, its a piece of metal that moves fluid. Only sizes (lines, bore size) affect "performance" when it comes to fluids.
Take multi piston brake calipers for instance. The more pistons = more bore size overall = a more even and intense application of the pad to the rotor.

Make sense?

Unless that "aftermarket" part comes with a sweet company decal. Oh yea.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

I'll call BS on that one. Everybody has something that's "supposedly" better than everyone else's if you listen to them. As stated, the slave cylinder is about the simplest moving item on the car.

About the only way it could be considered a "performance" item is if they used some exotic materials while assembling it, which would probably be a "race-only" version. Even if they even made such an item it would probably only have seals that were rated for a higher temperature and not much more. It would certainly cost a lot more than anything the corner parts store would charge.

 

[janks85]

thanks guys for the knowledge.. i figure i wasnt much of anything different, ill stick with good old stock replacement.. also very quick to make sure im changing the right part, i have a rebuilt tranny and new oem clutch, and even if i bleed the system until i see no air spitting out, the pedal is stil spongy and doesnt pop up like it should, i know it isnt the dreaded crankwalk cause i have no other symtoms(pedal dropping) just a light spongy pedal, also no fglued missing or leaking from what i can see, but i was told even if flued isnt leaking the slave can still cause that

thanks
chris

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Before you purchase anything check it out yourself.

On the slave: pull the rubber boot back and if you see fluid underneath the boot or it's leaking, the slave cylinder is bad.

On the master: look inside behind the pedals. You will probably need to pull the carpet back. If you see any fluid drippage/drainage, it's bad.

Also on the bleeding process: the clutch system is a little more difficult to bleed properly compared to the brakes. Since the bleeder screw is the bottom of the system it has a tendency to dribble while bleeding, thus allowing air to enter the system. To do it correctly, use a hose with one end attached to the bleeder screw, and the other end in a jar of fresh fluid. Then open the bleeder screw. With one end in the fluid you will not suck any air back into the system.

 

[janks85]

I have tried that way of bleeding, and the outcome is no matter what the the pedal stays to the floor(i have to pull it up by hand) and pump it for a good while before it builds a little pressure again...the clutch grabs, it just is a very very weak pedal, and I did not see any fluid on the carpet/firewall/ and their is some on the boot but I had a leaking oil return line so im not sure if it was that residue on it

thanks
chris,

 

[gsxclusive]

you're losing hydrolic pressure in the system somewhere. My guess is the master cylinder especially with your ACT clutch. I had the same problem about two weeks ago. The master builds up the pressure. the seals are designed to allow the fluid to flow one direction and not the other. when you pump up your clutch, you build up pressure, when the seals go bad it allows the fluid to flow backward; so after you let it sit a little while the pressure slowly releases it self. just because you don't see the fluid behind your pedal (YET) doesn't mean it hasn't or isn't going bad, the fluid could be backflowing to the reservor.

Mine started our just like yours and I just delt with it cause I didn't have "time" to fix it two days later it started leaking out behind the pedal.

I bought a rebuild kit for $14. it was an easily rebuild. the seals replaced were worn out and no longer soft.

with an aftermarket clutch once those seals go bad the additional pressure from the clutch plate wears it out real fast.

you can pull it out and look check the seals within an hour, but for the price I would just rebuild the thing. kit comes with new piston w/seals, spring, and an O-ring.

if you;ve resently replace the master then I'd have to say it's a leak in your line or your slave.

 

[janks85]

Acualy the master was recently replaced, thats why it leads me to believe it is in fact my slave. Thanks you for the help guys, Very much appreciated

Chris

 

[nightspeed87]

I just replaced my master cylinder but i think the slave is going bad now.
Had a coolant hose bust a couple days ago ( orange liquid ) and there was orange liquid in the slave cylinder seal so I didnt know if it was from the slave or the coolant?
The slave should only leak the clear break fluid liquid you fill it with if it leaks correct?
Just to make sure, because the boot was loose on my slave and it looked like orange liquid coming out of there...