Koyo/Fluidyne Aluminum Radiator owners, How much did you drop your coolant temps?

[2gAWDTalon]

I am considering buying a fancy, shmancy Aluminum radiator. I am leaning hard on the Koyo since it is:
1. Thinker Koyo 53mm vs. Fluiddne 38mm
2. Cheaper
My biggest question is to the people that have these, how much of a drop did you see in your coolant temps?
I live in FL and in my 2G my coolant temps are 196-206, 210 being the highest. On the highway they are right around 203 around town they drop down but in traffic I have seen as high as 210. It is not ever blazin hot right now! I have a big FMIC.

So let me get some feedback on what to expect for a drop in my coolant temps. If anyone has any info on what brand is the best and why I would like to hear it. Thanks!

 

[Strm Trpr]

I ran a Fluidyne on my late 97 GST.
I did a complete cooling system refurbishment including a new cap, new T-Stat, new oil cooler hoses, new upper and lower hoses, and I even added a bottle of Redline Water Wetter.
About the only thing I acheived was a dent in my wallet, a hotter engine bay due to having hella hot aluminum radiator tanks, and a more consistent and robust cooling system.

I didn't log my coolant temps, as you appear to be now, but my engine would warm up fast, and stay dead nuts a touch under exactly pointing 9 o'clock on my stock temp gauge no matter how hot it was outside, and how hard I drove the car.

The stock cooling system is more than sufficient.
Perhaps some ducting between the FMIC and Rad to help flow more air thru to the radiator.
Some guy lowered his coolant temps 6* by adding an air dam out of what appeared to be a chopped up street sign so that it scooped air from under the car and directed it over the radiator.

Another thing you need to keep in mind is if you use a thicker radiator, and you're running a larger than stock turbo, you will have clearances issues with the radiator fans and the turbo.

As it is now, my 18g's wastegate actuator is rubbing on my stock rad fan.
If I install my Fluidyne now, I'll end up wasting coolant, and I'd have trim the hell out of the rad fan shroud and hope the fan blade would clear the turbo.

I'd think long and hard about spending that kind of coin on an aftermarket radiator vs. improving your current set-up.

I have a nice Fluidyne for sale if you'd like.
Here are a couple pics...

 

[Wells]

You aren't over heating. Your coolant temps are right where they should be. I wouldn't personally spend the money, because your probably looking at a good 3-400 bucks that's going to accomplish absolutely nothing.


If they were getting up to 220-230, then I would suggest doing something .. but your more than fine where your at.

 

[Ray_G]

I've got a Koyo b/c insurance paid for a new radiator and quite frankly, it's rather attractive-but as the others have pointed out for the most part it's really not necessary. I haven't really logged temps, but neither have a noticed a discernable change in what it was running stock vs now.

Some other things to point out about going the Koyo route means getting slimline fans (I've got Flex-a-lite) in all likelihood since it's much thicker than stock and your fans won't fit.

Mounting the radiator is a breeze since it fit's perfectly, the fans were a bit more problematic but not hard at all-I wired them into the stock wiring harness vice controller they provide.

My bottom line is insurance cut a nice check to buy a new FMIC, new radiator, (new bumper...but the urethane was fine) so I got just that-and the Koyo was a decent price, SAMCO hoses were a good upgrade, and I'm not unhappy with the FAL setup either.
r-
Ray

 

[Bmxr152]

I got a aluminum Koyo radiator off ebay for less than $275! It works very well and droped my coolant temps 10 degrees(but i also took out that ac radiator too). Although the seller does not sell them at that price anymore, they are still great for the pirce.

 

[2gAWDTalon]

I've got a Koyo b/c insurance paid for a new radiator and quite frankly, it's rather attractive-but as the others have pointed out for the most part it's really not necessary. I haven't really logged temps, but neither have a noticed a discernable change in what it was running stock vs now.

Some other things to point out about going the Koyo route means getting slimline fans (I've got Flex-a-lite) in all likelihood since it's much thicker than stock and your fans won't fit.

If you have not logged the coolant temps you would not have noticed a change. I am constantly streaming (super paranoid about coolant temps) via DSMLink and have notced on my 2G the factory gauge is in the same position for 172degrees to 223, from 223 it shots up FAST.

I have a the slim line dual Flex-a-light 2500cfm fans now to clear my Tial WG. They run all the time via Link. I have lloked my setup over and it seems as if they will just barley clear my dumtube with the Koyo.

Thanks to everyone for responding, If anyone has any data on how much they droped there coolant temps I would love to here it!

 

[Ray_G]

You make a good point, I may take part in your paranoia and take the laptop out there to log the temps as well, I'll get back to you with the results.
r-
Ray

 

[2gAWDTalon]

I am sick of streaming with DSMLink all the time so I am going to buy this water temp gauge...
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

 

[JayRolla]

I have a rebuilt motor, and a new stock koyo radiator. NO FMIC. I see 210-216* while cruising and boosting. The highest it will hit is 219*. The fan kicks in and everything. What can cause such high water temps? Oh yea fluid is new also.

 

[Syndicate13]

If you have not logged the coolant temps you would not have noticed a change. I am constantly streaming (super paranoid about coolant temps) via DSMLink and have notced on my 2G the factory gauge is in the same position for 172degrees to 223, from 223 it shots up FAST.

I have a the slim line dual Flex-a-light 2500cfm fans now to clear my Tial WG. They run all the time via Link. I have lloked my setup over and it seems as if they will just barley clear my dumtube with the Koyo.

Thanks to everyone for responding, If anyone has any data on how much they droped there coolant temps I would love to here it!

I was in the same boat. I was running for a while with only one fan and even at night the car would overheat. Running a stock main fan and a SPAL 12" on the drivers side kept me somewhat in check. The car would still get hotter than I like with the AC on though. The ECU doesn't turn on the main fan until 210 degrees and both fans on high until 226. I went through a few steps that all helped my coolant temps and I'm comfortable with them now.

With two fans on all the time, a replacement stock style radiator and all that the car would run 213-220 all the time. This was too hot for me, my father who is a GM mechanic thinks this is normal. GM cars don't even turn the fans on until 238. That's also the temperature that our ECU will shut off the AC to try and cool the car down.

Next step was a new stock thermostat, fresh coolant, a bottle of water wetter, and a 70/30 water/coolant mix. This brough my temps down to 199-203 consistent but the car would still creep up with the AC on. I always turned it off when temps got to 220 because I felt that was a "safe" too hot mark. Around this time I set DSMlink to run my fans all the time and this is what helped my temps to stay there I think.

I then cut some Evo style vents into the bumper cover to allow more air to pass through the upper part of the radiator. It looks cool but it didn't really do much. I already had plenty of airflow through the radiator, my fans would suck a rag to the FMIC from 6 inches away. I then started to suspect a clogged radiator. While checking into that I noticed I had a few very small coolant leaks in my oil cooler lines.

I found a smoking deal on a Koyo so I bought it. Fixed the coolant lines at the same time and I no longer run my fans all the time. It has gotten quite a bit cooler here but it was over 80 with some decent humidity the other day. My temps hover around 192-196, with the AC on they'll sit at 206 and I hardly ever have the fans turn on unless I've been beating on the car. I'm still not sure if my old radiator was clogged or the Koyo is just that much better but it worked for me. I say if you can find a good deal on one jump on it.

 

[siceclipse]

i went crazy over the summer trying to get my coolant temps down.
Replaced almost EVERYTHING
New Cap, T-Stat, Upper and lower hoses, Coolant+water+Water Wetter, and i even bought a Koyo for 250 (open box but never used).

Could not put the Koyo in because of the 180* bend in my FMIC piping for my T-28.(kept hitting the fan)

turns out all i needed to do was replace the plastic shroud i ripped off when taking the bumper off. It directs air flow to the radiator. So i cut up some cardboard as a template and made some new ducting out of aluminum sheet.

My temps never go above 213 in the hot ass humid summers.

link for you.
http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=245981&highlight=cardboard