Torn Dejon Type S BOV Diaphram: Options?

[patrarch]

Ok..I've been trying to figure out lately why my Dejon (Greddy copy) Type S BOV quit working below 15 PSI. I am pretty sure the diaphram is torn, because there is a vacuum leak at idle in the lower nipple. The lower nipple is a vent for the diaphram, so the only way it could be leaking is if the diaphram is torn. So what are my options? Is there anything I can do to temporarily/half assed fix it? I can't afford to buy a new diaphram or a new bov right now. I just need it to work so I can drive the car. Right now it flutters at every shift unless I WOT to redline, and then shift. Is there anywhere I can route that nipple so that it's not creating a vacuum leak and it works more efficiently than it does now? Capping it off makes it A LOT worse, I tried that. Any ideas? Or am I just screwed and i've gotta replace the diaphram now or die? Thanks

 

[wvturbo2]

can you loosen it up the spring all the way so that it blows off no matter what and your not getting compressor surge.

 

[patrarch]

I've got it loosened as far as it goes without taking it out =/

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

Don't build any boost when you drive.

Just to point out to people who dont know the Dejon BOV is an EBAY knockoff. They work, but are prone to this exact problem.

The best suggested solutions is to buy a replacement diaphram from Greddy. Even by doing so it will still be significantly cheaper then buying an original. Of course people will also suggest just buying the real one, but assuming you bought the knockoff in the first place you wanted to save money, so the first suggestion is most likely your direct path. My suggestion, get the hks ssqv or ssqv knockoff. By the push pull design it is less prone if even possible for this same problem to happen. Or get a 1g bov. I have had exp. with a real greddy type-s, knockoff type-s, real ssqv, and knockoff ssqv. My car has ran the best with the ssqv. The type-s real/knockoff had leaks. I currently use the knockoff ssqv (the real ssqv was with my first DSM, i'm on my 4th) and 25lbs several times has proven no leaks via boost leak tests. That however is just my exp.

Good luck.

EDIT, i forgot, you can always put back your stock ic pipe and bov.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Don't build any boost when you drive.

Just to point out to people who dont know the Dejon BOV is an EBAY knockoff. They work, but are prone to this exact problem.

The best suggested solutions is to buy a replacement diaphram from Greddy. Even by doing so it will still be significantly cheaper then buying an original. Of course people will also suggest just buying the real one, but assuming you bought the knockoff in the first place you wanted to save money, so the first suggestion is most likely your direct path. My suggestion, get the hks ssqv or ssqv knockoff. By the push pull design it is less prone if even possible for this same problem to happen. Or get a 1g bov. I have had exp. with a real greddy type-s, knockoff type-s, real ssqv, and knockoff ssqv. My car has ran the best with the ssqv. The type-s real/knockoff had leaks. I currently use the knockoff ssqv (the real ssqv was with my first DSM, i'm on my 4th) and 25lbs several times has proven no leaks via boost leak tests. That however is just my exp.

Good luck.

EDIT, i forgot, you can always put back your stock ic pipe and bov.

Do you use an adapter for the HKS? what UICP?

 

[patrarch]

The vacuum nipple on my stock BOV broke off, so it's in the trash. I can't put on stock piping either, anyway, because i'm running a short route FMIC. I'm stuck with this BOV or a new one I guess. So, you use the knockoff SSQV? Off eBay? The one for like 20$, and it works fine?

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

If you can find one for $20 and assuming its been the same design as all the other ones then yes. But I believe they are a bit more expensive the last I checked a month or 2 ago. Around 50 bucks.

Do a search on hks, there is a thread on the BOV that is 4 pages long, it will explain alot of technical things.

As I mentioned I used the HKS twice. The real one with a dejon uicp flanged for it. Now I have the XS / ss autochrome fmic kit, which came with short route piping which was flanged for 1g BOVs. I had modified it to accept Greddy BOVs. When I got my hks ssqv knockoff, I did not want to pay $50 for the 1g adapter flange, so I bought the wrx adapter flange for half the price ($25) because the flanged look similar. Before anyone could confirm, I bought it. But now because I was the guinea pig, I can tell you the WRX flange looks similar to 1g flange, and if it was just as small, besides not being a diamond shape it would work. But the WRX flange is bigger. So I made it work. I drilled new holes to fit the Greddy holes I made on the uicp flange. I could have made new holes to fit the original 1g flange holes, but the flange would be slotted. I did not want that at the time, but by the design of the wrx adapter flange, making the holes to fit the greddy was a pain. But it works, and works great, and has been for a couple of months. And if you really want cheapest option, that was it.

I'm sure if I made it a slotted flange it would have worked, my only concern was with the vibration in the engine that it would shake it until misaligned.

I had a pic of my engine bay in the gallery, but weird alot of my pics got deleted.

 

[patrarch]

Interesting. So it doesn't take welding to put the HKS flange on a 1g BOV flange drilled for Greddy? I have the SS Autochrome short route kit also, with the 1G Flange I drilled for my Greddy. I am hesitant to get the HKS because I don't want to go through having a new flange welded on my uicp.