Brake info

[IslandTSI]

I am going to be fixing my front brakes this winter, new pads rotors and stainless lines. Can anyone give me a reccomendation between ebc greenstuff pads or hawk Hp for the street? Also Any advice on rototrs? Should I just stay with oem blanks?

Also can anyone reccomend a good shop to pick these parts up from?

 

[ndsti]

I have ebc greenstuff pads all around and i like them a lot, bought them from summit! As for rotors I currently have brembo drilled and slotted, I also like these rotors, I got mine from ebay and their genuine! With a setup like mine you will feel a big difference and maybe even better if you use ss lines. Rotors= $250 Pads= $65/pair. Its true that the brake dust washes off easier! Hope this helps

 

[IslandTSI]

Thanks I apreciate it. Sounds like green stuffs as far as pads go. I might just stick with generic blanks for rotors though. SHould save me alot as fara shipping etc goes.

 

[ndsti]

Here's where i bought my rotors from on ebay they have the best price, here's the ebay auction number 270045944275 their selling for $250 free shipping!

 

[DankDSM]

As far as green stuff pads go the are def the best pads on the market as far as stoping power. One thing you have to realize about them though is you are only going to get about 10k miles out of them too. The thing with greenstuff pads is that the pads wear through quick but the rotors dont. As far as rotors go i would get some slotted rotors but not cross drilled.
Thats about all you should need to know. have fun

 

[housegsx]

Thanks I apreciate it. Sounds like green stuffs as far as pads go. I might just stick with generic blanks for rotors though. SHould save me alot as fara shipping etc goes.

I've had the green stuffs and hated them. They stopped fine, but they dusted worse than any pad I've ever seen. I'd rather try the Hawk hps', Porterfield R4-S, or a good ceramic pad.
As far as rotors, get blanks, but not generic blanks. I'd recommend the brembo blanks. They are cheap enough. One hard stop with China rotors and they will be warped and you'll be disappointed.

 

[drivemusicnow]

... Greenstuffs are DEFINITELY not the best pads on the market as far as stopping power. They have a hard initial bite, and are solid performers. They don't last, and theres about a 50/50 chance that they will dust badly (versus not dusting at all that other 50% of the time).

I would recommend the Hawk Hp Plus, or Porterfield R4-S pads. I would also stick with blank rotors. There is a thread (search) that I just talked about the differences in rotors. i would recommend getting the Brembo blanks, with the pillar venting. They are linked in the thread I'm talking about. They were about 40$ a piece for the fronts, and will work better and last longer than the above mentioned slotted and drilled.

I would also heavily recommend not using Greenstuff pads if you're doing any sort of open tracking/road racing/HP DE as they will literally fall apart.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

I use the EBC Greenstuff on mine F/R. They have basically the same cold bite as OEM pads, but when they heat up, that's when you'll notice the difference. However, as stated, they will dust heavily no matter what the ads say.

I also agree, if going with OEM size rotors, just stick with good blanks.

 

[prostreetdsmx1]

you should check out some of our brake deals bro. We have had awesome success with them and there are tons of members on here that can vouge for the kits.

 

[drocks22]

I have Bendix ceramic brake pads on my eclipse and they are some of the best factory replacement pads you can buy. I have absolutely no brake dust and they are fairly cheap, but I would also go with OEM rotors becuase they are also pretty decent.

 

[Dragon TalonTsi]

See, everyone here has their own opinion... and most of them arent even giving a detaild description of Why and how??? WTF I have Duralast Gold Ceramic Pads from AutoZone (that is where I work part time, plus the discount) , Techna Fit SS lines, Brembo Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors, and I have more braking bite, cooler rotors, better brake response, and virtually no dust at all!!! People are saying here, "Get slotted, not drilled." Do you know why? Do you know why some people say this one or that one? No, they dont have a clue, they are just repeating what others say or what they hear.... I will tell you one reason why is too much drilling can cause the rotors to crack and warp faster, and another is mass... when the brakes are applied (ABS or not) all that pressure is applied to the rotors, and they have to do all the stopping for your 2 to 3000 lb+ car, and if you do not have enough mass, hence too much drilling, you will crack your rotors into pieces... I have seen this first hand and experienced it first hand.... Slotts provide you with more brake bite, but with more dust, and drilled holes provide you with a better cooling efficiency, but less mass... If you break in your rotors right, and get a better brake setup, you wont have to worry about a thing... trust me....

 

[drivemusicnow]

See, everyone here has their own opinion... and most of them arent even giving a detaild description of Why and how??? WTF I have Duralast Gold Ceramic Pads from AutoZone (that is where I work part time, plus the discount) , Techna Fit SS lines, Brembo Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors, and I have more braking bite, cooler rotors, better brake response, and virtually no dust at all!!! People are saying here, "Get slotted, not drilled." Do you know why? Do you know why some people say this one or that one? No, they dont have a clue, they are just repeating what others say or what they hear.... I will tell you one reason why is too much drilling can cause the rotors to crack and warp faster, and another is mass... when the brakes are applied (ABS or not) all that pressure is applied to the rotors, and they have to do all the stopping for your 2 to 3000 lb+ car, and if you do not have enough mass, hence too much drilling, you will crack your rotors into pieces... I have seen this first hand and experienced it first hand.... Slotts provide you with more brake bite, but with more dust, and drilled holes provide you with a better cooling efficiency, but less mass... If you break in your rotors right, and get a better brake setup, you wont have to worry about a thing... trust me....

Please don't feel the need to start this attitude torwards members of this board. And if you do, for whatever reason, feel the need to show everyone up, at least bring the tech and be correct in what you present.

You refer to mass of the rotor, however you very incorrectly describe why mass is important. Mass of rotors is important because of the ability to distribute heat. Less mass= higher temperatures within the rotor under the same braking conditions. Your brake sytem converts mechanical kinetic energy into heat through the use of a caliper applying force on a pad, which results in friction with the rotor. If the rotor is too small (mass wise) it will not be able to disperse the heat being put into it faster than it's gaining more heat. Therefor, please describe how drilled holes will increase the "cooling efficiency" of a rotor, when they also decrease the mass, as you said. I'm not argueing that it doesnt HELP keep temperatures down, but you seem to like making blanket statements about things you dont' fully understand, so I thought I'd play devil's advocate.

Going back to Heat Transfer (a good ME class) the increase in surface area helps, however the decrease in mass hurts it's thermal capacity, and reduced friction surface hurts te overall braking ability. Maybe you could write out the formula used to calculate this equation?

"too much drilling" WTF The reason Drilled rotors crack is because the holes act as stress risers. Take a Solids class typically a 200 level ME class. Metal expands and contracts with heat, therefore creating internal forces within the metal. You add a hole, it concentrates these forces on single points along the circles circumference, and will eventually form cracks. Do you know why some drilled rotors take much more abuse before they crack compared to others? And are you sure the rotor you have is even a Brembo? actually, here's another one for you. Are the rotors you have on your car Brembo Blanks (about 40$ apiece) that someone set on a CNC Mill and then "slotted and drilled" them? Do you know the difference?

You state you have cooler rotors using your current setup. If so I'd like to know the testing method you used to determine temperature, what the ambient conditions were, and how you created a repeatable test to accurately portray a difference between a setup you have now, and what you had before. Again with the gross generalizations.

I think you need to understand this community a bit better before you attack it for "not having a clue, they are just repeating what they've heard/read". Not to mention that most of what you said relates only mildly to the original posters question. Do a search (like I suggested to the OP) I personally have experience with all of the pads I've discussed (Greenstuffs on a WRX with stock lines and rotors, HP+ on wrx with cryo rotors and metal lines, and R4S on a street DSM). I appreciate your enthusiasm to help, and think that you have a good understanding of disc brakes in general, I'm just trying to prove a point.

 

[2bclutch]

I have Hawk Performance HPS Brake Pads on my 98 GST. I had stockers on before and switched to these after reading about them on thier site. I have stock rotors and the HPS Brake Pads really give an impressive amount of braking power compared to the stock brake pads. I haven't really noticed much brake dust if any so far. I was thinking of going with the Green brake pads but their cheesy ads in magazines turned me away. I'm shallow when it comes to car parts I guess.

Also I was wondering about the Dragon Talon guy. What is up with the 210 whp with all of those mods?? Doesn't a stock GST have 210 to begin with? WTF

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Also I was wondering about the Dragon Talon guy. What is up with the 210 whp with all of those mods?? Doesn't a stock GST have 210 to begin with? WTF

Yes, they come stock with 210HP...............at the crank, not the wheels. At the wheels after going through the drive-train and such it would translate into about 175ishWHP for the average car.

That's one way for the manufacturers to "inflate" their numbers and still be "technically" correct.

 

[spyderturbo007]

I went with the Brembo slotted, dimpled rotors and Akebono Ceramic pads. I must say, I absolutely love the combination. Very low dust from the ceramic pads, incredible stopping power and virtually no fade under hard braking.

Good stuff

Pads:

http://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=376&cat=13&page=1

 

[Dragon TalonTsi]

I have Hawk Performance HPS Brake Pads on my 98 GST. I had stockers on before and switched to these after reading about them on thier site. I have stock rotors and the HPS Brake Pads really give an impressive amount of braking power compared to the stock brake pads. I haven't really noticed much brake dust if any so far. I was thinking of going with the Green brake pads but their cheesy ads in magazines turned me away. I'm shallow when it comes to car parts I guess.

Also I was wondering about the Dragon Talon guy. What is up with the 210 whp with all of those mods?? Doesn't a stock GST have 210 to begin with? WTF

I put that because its our stock ratings.... 210 and 214, but autos came with 205 but with 220, and yeah, all my mods should have me well into the 400's, but I havent been able to dyno back home in a while... I will as soon as I get out of the Corps...

 

[Dragon TalonTsi]

Please don't feel the need to start this attitude torwards members of this board. And if you do, for whatever reason, feel the need to show everyone up, at least bring the tech and be correct in what you present.

You refer to mass of the rotor, however you very incorrectly describe why mass is important. Mass of rotors is important because of the ability to distribute heat. Less mass= higher temperatures within the rotor under the same braking conditions. Your brake sytem converts mechanical kinetic energy into heat through the use of a caliper applying force on a pad, which results in friction with the rotor. If the rotor is too small (mass wise) it will not be able to disperse the heat being put into it faster than it's gaining more heat. Therefor, please describe how drilled holes will increase the "cooling efficiency" of a rotor, when they also decrease the mass, as you said. I'm not argueing that it doesnt HELP keep temperatures down, but you seem to like making blanket statements about things you dont' fully understand, so I thought I'd play devil's advocate.

Going back to Heat Transfer (a good ME class) the increase in surface area helps, however the decrease in mass hurts it's thermal capacity, and reduced friction surface hurts te overall braking ability. Maybe you could write out the formula used to calculate this equation?

"too much drilling" WTF The reason Drilled rotors crack is because the holes act as stress risers. Take a Solids class typically a 200 level ME class. Metal expands and contracts with heat, therefore creating internal forces within the metal. You add a hole, it concentrates these forces on single points along the circles circumference, and will eventually form cracks. Do you know why some drilled rotors take much more abuse before they crack compared to others? And are you sure the rotor you have is even a Brembo? actually, here's another one for you. Are the rotors you have on your car Brembo Blanks (about 40$ apiece) that someone set on a CNC Mill and then "slotted and drilled" them?

You state you have cooler rotors using your current setup. If so I'd like to know the testing method you used to determine temperature, what the ambient conditions were, and how you created a repeatable test to accurately portray a difference between a setup you have now, and what you had before. Again with the gross generalizations.

I think you need to understand this community a bit better before you attack it for "not having a clue, they are just repeating what they've heard/read". Not to mention that most of what you said relates only mildly to the original posters question. Do a search (like I suggested to the OP) I personally have experience with all of the pads I've discussed (Greenstuffs on a WRX with stock lines and rotors, HP+ on wrx with cryo rotors and metal lines, and R4S on a street DSM). I appreciate your enthusiasm to help, and think that you have a good understanding of disc brakes in general, I'm just trying to prove a point.

I dont mean to start an atittude, but people here are just repeating hearsay, and that pisses me and others off!!! Bigtime!!! I only told them one reason why, and if I told them all the reasons, we would still be here reading Brake theory from the Handbooks and real life experiences... If the holes are drilled on a solid rotor, that is where they cool better, but with a small amount of holes... and the vented rotors, that is where others say that they are questionable for the "Cooling Efficiencies" since they are often internally vented to allow even greater airflow anyway. Most brake systems are more powerful than the vehicle's engine, so at full throttle, even a very powerful vehicle can be easily stopped with the brakes. So yeah, I didnt fully explain about the mass part... but I was only trying to open them up a little bit about all this internet crap and jargons and junk advice going around... if they really wanted to, they could do a search, and then go about their business, but instead (like most of us) want real life advice and experiences, not papers.... I dont need to write out a FORMULA for this equation? I am not a mathmetician, nor a physicist, so why bother? And you dont need to be to understand these concepts... and apply them... but they do help you solve the variables with testing your hypothesis. I have bought my rotors from a reputable SPONSOR here, Impressive Import Performance, they said they are genuine BREMBOs, not eBay CNC china rotor crap, and they come with the warranty... And the testing methods I have done and others have done is too long to explain. We did most of it either right after we broke in our rotors, or did them a little while longer after... We measured the braking distances the first times, with stockers vs aftermarkets, at different speeds and distances, and with either a stock setup, or almost complete track setups... I have personal experiences with GM's, Namely the GTP Grand Prix and Trans Am's (Ws6's), DSM's of course, 3kgt's VR4's (with a full stoptech setup), and a few others.... I am not trying to be MR Know it all either, its just I am tired of people leaving others in the dark with reposts... I only scratched the surface with this, and the Original Posters did ask for advice on pads, rotors, lines, and he asked for recomendations too... and that is what I gave him what I have on my setup.... Duralast Gold Ceramic pads, Techna fit SS lines, and Genuine Brembo Cross Drilled/Slotted rotors. He could change his brake fluid to the Blue stuff or the Motul 600 F, but its up to him to research the products and its reviews.... He has to discover it for himself, no one else can do that...

You keep playing with the Devil, and I will go with God...