Who is interested in a tech article on replacing bushings?

[jabinya]

I just recieved the Energy Suspension Hyperflex Master Bushing Kit. I've been looking into this for a while and it all seemed like a mystery when I did a search. After searching I did have some results but found no posts with pictures. I am a visual person so maybe a tech article with pictures would help out others considering the mod.

DIY replacement is possible in your own garage. It will be time consuming and you might run into problems if you live in the rust belt.

I'll be doing this in the next couple of weeks when I get some spare time so if your interested let me know!

 

[beating4g63s]

some people are more visual then just reading, never hurts if you have alot of pictures and full detail. go for it.

 

[dave99gst]

Yup, lots of pictures - we cant have enough info on how to do stuff.

 

[PokinatchaPunk]

Definately do one...I know I have to do it eventually so I'd like to read about how big of a Pain in the arse it is...

 

[wret]

I had good intentions of writing an article when I replaced mine. I think I even started taking some pictures. There are several reasons I did not. It's a dirty tedious job. At times it seemed I had made no progress in hours. The technique I used that worked like a charm on one bushing did not work on the next. I never got to a point where I could say "Ah-hah. This is the method that works," and I didn't want to post something that might encourage the average newbie to jump in over his head. That's why I posted some tips rather than a "How to."

 

[Whiplash]

Do it up man. It would be much appreciated.

 

[jabinya]

I had good intentions of writing an article when I replaced mine. I think I even started taking some pictures. There are several reasons I did not. It’s a dirty tedious job. At times it seemed I had made no progress in hours. The technique I used that worked like a charm on one bushing did not work on the next. I never got to a point where I could say “Ah-hah. This is the method that works,” and I didn’t want to post something that might encourage the average newbie to jump in over his head. That’s why I posted some tips rather than a “How to.”

Wret, your thread on tips for installing the bushings was very helpful. I plan on using your pipe clamp method if necessary. If I use that method I was wondering if I had your permission to put it into the tech article. I would give you credit for the method of course.

Wret has a very good point on this not being a simple mod for a inexperienced noob. For this install you are going to need a assortment of tools and LOTS of patience!

My rear bushings are in such bad shape that the rubber has separated from the inner metal sleeve making the car's handiling almost completely unpredictable! The other car I own and use as a daily driver has died and is being sent to a junkyard as I type this. So I need to get this done before the snow comes and I'm stuck driving a car that is unsafe to me and others on the road.

One of the problems that I will encounter will be RUST. My rear axle is rust welded in my hub so I have to replace the rear knuckle bushings with the knuckle still connected to the car. I'm also afraid that the bolt that passes thru the bushings will be rust welded to the inner sleeve. I've been spraying PB Blaster on all the bolts everyday for the past two weeks to try and avoid this.

My first attempt will be happening late tonight, so I will post results after that.

Thanks for the replies and support!

 

[wret]

If I use that method I was wondering if I had your permission to put it into the tech article.

Of course, and good luck with the article.

 

[cburke23]

I say do it. There a few ways of doing this if you don't have a press. Rep given.................

 

[1stGenRocks]

One of the problems that I will encounter will be RUST. My rear axle is rust welded in my hub so I have to replace the rear knuckle bushings with the knuckle still connected to the car. I'm also afraid that the bolt that passes thru the bushings will be rust welded to the inner sleeve. I've been spraying PB Blaster on all the bolts everyday for the past two weeks to try and avoid this.

My first attempt will be happening late tonight, so I will post results after that.

Thanks for the replies and support!

if you have access to one heating the bolt with an oxy-cetylene torch will do wonders. just heat it and cool it a couple times and it will usually break loose a lot easier. just tap the rust off first otherwise it will get hot and pop off at you

 

[jabinya]

Sorry post no news, my garage time last night got taken by family needs. I'll be getting to this soon and will be posting updates.

 

[thekellbeast]

Here's a writeup on it from the SR20 forums. It doesn't have any pictures though.

 

[thekellbeast]

Here is an article on it from the SR20 forums. It doesn't have any pictures though.

http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=125745

 

[Strm Trpr]

I've done a complete ES Bushing kit install on my late 97 GST.
I had access to a 20 ton shop press, air tools and of course an assortment of sockets.

I have the Complete Prothane kit and I am in the middle of doing my 97 GSX as we speak.
I've already done the upper front control arms, and the lower front control arms.

The difference between the Prothane kit and the ES kit, is that all of Prothane bushings are a split design with a metal sleeve thru the ID.

The ES kit was a superb PITA.
You have to lube up the bushings, and then use a press to press in a slippery bushing, no way am I ever going thru that again.

This is my method:
I use a 1/2" impact gun, a universal ball joint press, and an assortment of sockets.

I haven't had any issue's.

I plan on attacking one of the rear knuckles tonight.

If you need some pics, or tips, let me know, I'll gladly forward them on for an article.

 

[jabinya]

Strm Trpr, I was considering the Prothane kit but the ES kit had a cheaper price by $100. Are both kits pretty much the same? I was expecting subframe bushings but found they only make them for the 1G.

 

[DSMunknown]

RRE has tried to help us out with bushing installs, but most of these photos are of the bushings themselves:


http://www.roadraceengineering.com/parts/prothane/
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclsuspension.htm



Another idea would be to take your complete bushing set and have it installed at a trusted shop. Ask the shop to take lots and lots and lots of photos of their install process, and to give you some helpful tips on how to do this at home. Then post up the the Tech forums and you're good to go!

Of course, if they suggest certain methods that only allow for certain tools that are not readily available to the vast majority of "backyard mechanics" then this could pose a problem.

 

[Strm Trpr]

Strm Trpr, I was considering the Prothane kit but the ES kit had a cheaper price by $100. Are both kits pretty much the same? I was expecting subframe bushings but found they only make them for the 1G.

Prothane Kit Front:
Upper Control Arm Bushings
Upper Shock Mount Bushings
Lower Control Arm Bushings, see link:
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/parts/prothane/front_suspension_lower_arm_assembly.jpg

ES bushings replace all except those that RRE says not too.

Prothane Kit Rear:
Upper Rear Control Arm Bushings, ES doesn't replace these.
All 3 knuckle bushings
Trailing Arm Bushings
The Prothane Kit replaces the inner most pivot bushings on both the LCA, and the toe control arm.
It also includes the Upper Shock Mount Bushings.
And it also replaces both front and rear swaybar bushings too, ES doesn't.

Check out that link that was posted above and click thru the different pics.
You'll see all that the Prothane Kit covers.

I will be working on my rear suspension tonight, I will take some pics.

 

[jabinya]

Well, I finally got to replacing my first bushing late tonight. I worked on the bushing that was in the worst condition first; the rear pass upper knuckle. Pretty friggin difficult.

30 min - remove OEM inner sleeve
45 min - remove OEM outer sleeve
1 hour - install ES bushing
2 min - install ES inner sleeve

Granted it was the first bushing I've ever replaced and I was working in a very confined, awkward position since the knuckle was still on the car. I ended up using Wret's method; putting a pipe clamp on the ES bushing. When I tried to install the bushing without the clamp, it kept compressing and going off center and sliding out of position.

I've got the installation lube everywhere! Very sticky stuff!

I used a dremel with a carbide bit to remove the OEM rubber. Later I went to wash up and found my face was covered with rubber shavings. Upon blowing my nose it came out black. YUK! Going to wear a respirator next time.

Luckily the pass thru bolt wasn't siezed and came out easily.

I learned a lot tonight about what works and what doesn't. So the rest should be considerably easier.

On the way home, (I was working in my parents garage) I noticed a difference immediately! The rear was much more stable in turns and bumps. If one bushing makes that much difference, I can imagine how well the car will handle after I replace them all!

I'll keep working on this and keep you guys updated!