No Boost Leak

[DSM-Talon-John]

Ok I did a proper boost leak test with no leaks anywhere. I just installed a greddy rs, before I had a fake one. Is it possible that the real one is more restrictive and I need to just turn up the boost?

 

[donmagicjuan]

What problem are you experiencing with the new BOV? Are you asking if you should raise the pressure for your boost leak test or turn up the boost controller?

Not sure what you mean by more restrictive, but the two valves should be very similar in operation. You shouldn't have to make any changes when you switch them out.

 

[MrBoxx]

Is it possible that the real one is more restrictive and I need to just turn up the boost?

The only real difference is in the quality of the rubber diaphragm; Greddy's is oil resistant, the knock-off's is not. It's possible that there may be a difference in spring rates, but I doubt it.

 

[DSMunknown]

What problem are you experiencing with the new BOV?

Exactly. The original poster needs to provide more coherent information to have his questions answered with accuracy.


Vague descriptions of the problem will lead to vague diagnoses.

 

[DSM-Talon-John]

Ok when I had the fake greddy on i was boosting up to 15-16 psi. Now that I put the real one on I only boost up to 12-13 psi. I did a boost leak test and there wasnt a boost leak. I have the bov pretty tight but I dont maybe it needs to be tighter? Thats why I was wondering maybe the boost just needs turned up.

 

[DSMunknown]

Ok when I had the fake greddy on i was boosting up to 15-16 psi. Now that I put the real one on I only boost up to 12-13 psi. I did a boost leak test and there wasnt a boost leak. I have the bov pretty tight but I dont maybe it needs to be tighter? Thats why I was wondering maybe the boost just needs turned up.

If you performed a boost leak test correctly, and are completely sure that you do not have an air leak, then there would be no reason to tighten down the BOV any more.

Now there are a few things you can do. Take a gander at the photo below:

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Now, you can place a vacuum/pressure gauge between the hose connected to the actuator and the hose connected to the compressor-side housing (basically, the gauge will be momentarily taking the place of the MBC). This will allow you to see how much air the intake side of the engine is holding as you are simultaneously doing the boost leak test. Pressurize the intake side of the engine to about 20-to-25 psi. See where that gets you.

You can also do the exact same thing but switch the authentic Greddy BOV with the knock-off. Observe what happens.

Remember to do the boost leak test where and when it is quiet. Constant traffic driving by, neighborhood dogs barking, and such will not allow you to easily hear an air leak if there is one. If everything happens like you described before (that is, the Greddy BOV holding about 12 to 13 psi) then you should be fine with turning up the boost just a tad. Hopefully you are not describing spiking during boost periods. I don't know how well the Hallman MBC "deals" with boost spike. If it has always held steady, that's one thing, but if it tends to spike a couple psi, then it seems that the authentic Greddy BOV helped to solidify the effectivness of the MBC. I am currently unsure of how this would exactly come about, but you can always ask around.

If by chance you do hear an air leak at some point during testing and are unsure where it is coming from, mix together soap and water and shake it inside a mug. Take the bubbles on the top and place them in the general area of the suspected leak.

 

[DSM-Talon-John]

Thank you, that helps alot.

 

[DSMunknown]

I forgot to mention that you will also need a 1/8th inch tee and a little bit of extra tubing (you can use the OEM tubing that the BCS was connected to). I will try to get a couple pictures up of what I have. It's pretty simple, not a lot of thought went into this, but it works well.

Just remember that you will have to buy another gauge that reads at least 20 psi or more. Also make sure that the gauge reads on a small scale (aka the numbers read from 1 to 20 on the face plate). You don't want to buy a gauge that begins at 10 or 20 psi, because those are not very helpful at all.

 

[DSMunknown]

I took this just a little while ago. It does not matter which hose connects to the actuator nipple and which hose connects to the compressor-side housing nipple, so long as they are both attached.

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[DSM-Talon-John]

Ok cool looks good, Ill make sure I do everything the right way and let you guys know whats up.