The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

ACC Power/Can't start pleeeeaassse help. **LaSt StEp**

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

way2slowtalon

15+ Year Contributor
147
0
Oct 24, 2004
Newington, Connecticut
This is my last step and my Talon will finally be finished. My battery is in the trunk and I have a wierd drain that I can;t fix

PROBLEMS:
*Negative Battery terminal sparks, when touching battery post.
*ACC power goes down to 10.9 V with parking lights on, no headlights.Everything seems dim too.
*When trying to start the car it's only 8.7V
*After going from ACC to key out the ignition, it will slowly grow back to normal. Example... 10.9, 11.1, 11.2, 11.4, 11.5...............................12.5
* When battery gets to 11.5ish and I try to start (6V) I hear clicking, (Maybe relay?)
*Jump starting turn my car on, and Alternator keeps it at 13.9.
*100amp fuse kept blowing out, so switched to 150amp and no problem with that.


What I tried
*Milli Amps are .77 with doors open, and only .03 with everything turned off. Checking for short circuit.
*Replaced all grounds possible
*New Battery installed.

I have a Battery in the trunk, 2way alarm,AFC, and turbo timer for misc accesories.


Any input is greatly appreciated
 
Switching from 100A to 150A fuse is a big mistake! The wiring is designed only for 100A but you now allow a short to draw 150A which can start the car on fire or at minimum burn up a wire inside some harness.
Your milliamp readings are correct for those conditions you list with key off.
Sounds like you have a short when the key is to ON or ACC. To find a short see: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1496998#post1496998. Also make sure your battery cables are clean and tight.
 
luv2rallye said:
Switching from 100A to 150A fuse is a big mistake! The wiring is designed only for 100A but you now allow a short to draw 150A which can start the car on fire or at minimum burn up a wire inside some harness.
Your milliamp readings are correct for those conditions you list with key off.
Sounds like you have a short when the key is to ON or ACC. To find a short see: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1496998#post1496998. Also make sure your battery cables are clean and tight.


Follow his advise he is on the right track put the 100a back in they put the 100 in it for a reason. :|
 
luv2rallye said:
Switching from 100A to 150A fuse is a big mistake! The wiring is designed only for 100A but you now allow a short to draw 150A which can start the car on fire or at minimum burn up a wire inside some harness.
Your milliamp readings are correct for those conditions you list with key off.
Sounds like you have a short when the key is to ON or ACC. To find a short see: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1496998#post1496998. Also make sure your battery cables are clean and tight.


Thanks for the help. I believe my main problem was, my alarm yellow wire (12V), was connected AFTER instead of BEFORE my starter kill. When that was fixed I only get a tiny little spark sometimes when i touch the battery terminal and battery now.

Is a real tiny one normal or is there still another short?

Thanks
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top