no start, tested bat/starter ok

[Glliw]

Hey guys, having trouble starting. I have already eliminated the battery when by having it tested. And as well as the starter was tested by advanced. They both were cleared as good. I did the in-car test of the starter by plugging it in to the wires in a position that I can see the wheel. I can pop-start the car. The guy at advanced said it was the ignition switch wire on the starter. Is this the small clip wire? Is there a fuse as well for the starter? Is there a diagram or short walkthrough someone can give me of the wiring for the starter? Thanks, any help is appreciated.

-Will

 

[DarkStarMenace]

Does the car turn over when you try to start it. If it cranks, you more than likely have bad Crank sensor or cam sensor. If it does not crank, you have an electrical problem. You can test with a 12 volt test light. You need to check if the switch is receiving and sending the voltage to the starter. You can test that if you remove the shroud around the steering wheel. If ## not getting voltage to the switch u have a bad fuse,or if its not sending voltage u have a bad switch. If everything is good, depending if your automatic or manual, you might have a bad neutral safety switch or clutch switch respectively. If everthing checks good, check to see if you a constant 12 volts to the starter, and i mean test it measure the voltage from the battery to the starter. Then check to see if ## getting a signal to the starter from the switch, u'll need 2 people but that should be done first, that way u know everthing inside the car is electrically good. Just unplug the clip and put the test to ground and probe the connector for a voltage signal, if you don't have a test light they are like $5-10 or if u have voltmeter. I find the test to be easier and faster. I hope this isn't too much info at once. Good luck.

Adam

 

[Sivad87]

check the clutch safety switch. i dont know how the 2g's are setup but on my 1g the rubber peice on the clutch broke off and didnt touch the switch. its easy to check and if you have to just unplug it and see if that solves the problem. maybe a shot in the dark but it could be an easy fix instead of tearing everything apart trying to find the problem.

 

[steve]

Check to see if you get 12v on that clip on wire when your turning the key to START. If not you have a problem in the circuit, like a bad clutch safety switch or ignition switch.. If you do than the power to the starter or the starter solenoid is bad. I don't see a fuse in the starter circuit after the ignition switch and only the main 30A ignition fuse before it.

Steve

 

[Glliw]

It doesn't turn over any at all. I use a volt meter to test the circuit right?

 

[steve]

Yes, you use the voltmeter or a multimeter set on volts connecting the red probe to the wire while it's disconnected from the starter and the black probe to chassis ground. Have somebody push the clutch in and try to start the car.

Steve

 

[Glliw]

OK will do that tomorrow afternoon. And in addition, because I don't think I said it above, When I tested it in the car, it would pop out as if it were to engage the flywheel but does not spin.

 

[steve]

When was the last time the this starter worked and cranked over the car?
If the solenoid is firing it sounds like your gettinf 12v to the little wire we were talking about but not to the main cable that attaches to the battery and the starter stud, the solenoid contacts are bad, or the starter motor has some problem.

Do you have any ideas on how to test each case to see which might be the problem?

Steve

 

[Glliw]

It worked 5 hours prior to when I tried to crank it up to go to lunch. Nope I wouldn't have much of a clue how to test them . Maybe I can convince the advanced guy to give me a new one?

 

[Glliw]

Ok so I unplugged the clutch starter switch under the dash and that didn't work. I also changed it out with a starter that I had tested at advance again but that didn't solve it either. I will test the wires now I guess.

EDIT: I tested the small clip wire and it jumped to near 6volts and fell back to .01 volts. Does this mean the wire is bad? Or is there a fuse to replace?

 

[wret]

You should be getting a full 12V to the clip. Be sure you have tested it correctly. If yes, try connecting 12V directly from the battery to your starter's "S" terminal momentarily.

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[Glliw]

Ah crap, my extra set of hands went home

 

[wret]

You only need one or two. Attach a wire to the positive battery terminal and touch the opposite end to the S terminal. Be careful not to ground the wire as you do or there will be fireworks.

 

[Glliw]

Well, thanks to your guys' help, the car is once again alive! Believe it or not, it turned up to be the starter. After talking to my friend's stepdad(was a mechanic for many years) he said that sometimes they test well on the table but can't perform under a real load. This turned out to be the case, even after trying an extra one I had around(both I had tested around 50 amps I believe, or whatever their gauges on the tester measure in...). Picked up a new one from advanced and started right up. Once again, just want to thank you guys for your help.

One small addition however, when I was under the dash, I noticed a white and black plug near the bottom of the mess of wires was unplugged. What does this do? Does it deserve to be plugged back in?

 

[dieseltech]

Just a little fyi. They used to have testers to actually load a starter. They stopped producing/using them after a few people actually died using them, not good. Now they just do an amp draw on an unloaded starter. Very unreliable. Per TommyBoy "If you want to get a good look at a T-Bone you need to stick your head up the steers ass." , I think I butchered that one