What am I driving?

[JeCliPz]

I purchased my 90' GS-T a couple of months ago from fellow, who purchased it from a fellow, who built it for street racing. The guy I bought it from knew almost nothing about the car or what it had under the hood, and at the time I didn't even know what an intercooler was. I have since learned enough to perform the replacement of several parts myself, including a 14b turbo, but now am wondering how to tell just what all this car has. The question: what should I look for to know if this car has aftermarket injectors, fuel pump, cams.... ??? I'm currently holding steady at 15psi boost, can I turn it up? My profile has a complete list of the stuff that I have indentified thus far (thanks DSMtuners for the education!) but I'd like to start adding to what the previous owner did.

Attatched is a pic of my underhood jungle, for what it's worth.
Thanks for the help!

 

[10minutequarter]

Most stock injectors are rated at 450cc and are black on top w/blue around it just before the clip. Unless its AT then they will be smaller. But you say you have a 14b so I guesss you are MT. An aftermarket fuel pump will be louder and most people rewire them to a direct power source so look for wires and listen, the only way to be sure is to undue the three bolts in the hatch and pull it out. Ive never owned a car with cams so I cant help you out there. And I would loose those cut springs unless you like to throw away tires.

 

[JeCliPz]

Yes it is MT, and yes I plan on ditching the cut springs ASAP (I'm guessing it was the cheapest way to slam the rear end for drag racing)

 

[Defiant]

If only the DSM world had a "rat ride" division.

 

[somdturbo]

is that a red painted BOV?
For cams you could pull the valve cover and look for markings of a certain brand.

 

[1g_tsi_awd]

Cut springs are not a smart idea, but to check for cams, take the valve cover off...

 

[NoNaMeS]

I'd look into replacing that cracked exhaust manifold before anything else, maybe trying to reroute that IC pipe a little further from the ex mani. You may need a custom j pipe to do so as that 1 looks to be just turned around. I dont think you can clock the compressor if using a stock wasgate and actuator.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

If the E. Mani is cracked get it fixed or replace it what ever, then wrap it with heat wrap to keep the harsh temps lower in your turboed talon. Also invest in a J-pipe, they are 80$ on Slowboyracing.com , it will help clean up your engine bay a bit because the lower ICP will not be up top where it is now, get that intake contraption out and do a simple 3" hard air intake pipe with a k&n, then take a rag and clean everything off, neaten up the plug wires,route your UICP normally(goes down under the intake pipe not pieced together to go down SMIC whole. Did the first guy" street racer" set this all up? If so then there aren't cams, injectors or a FP, I figure this because he half a$$ stuff like just cutting the springs. If you are taking off your VC then buy cams first like a 264/272 HKS set-up or Comp Cams 101200s. Go with a set of 550cc injectors, a wally 190 or 255 with a rewire, a logger SAFC-II or DSMLink. The DSMLink will benifit you greatly, one of the best things you could get for your car. If you havn't already done so then change out fliuds, engine oil, tranny fluid, rad. fluid.Have the plugs checked for fouling of carbon deposits, and bring it to a shop with a dyno and have them tune it.

EDIT: Also I see you live in the NW not sure how your roads are out there, but if they are bumpy then you may want to look into ground control coilovers, they cost 399$, you will have to buy struts because your are probably gone due to the guy cutting the springs, I would suggest a set of Koni yellow's(what Im going with for my GC set-up_ or KYB AGXs, this set-up will allow you to adjust ride height for street and track.

Dustin

 

[JeCliPz]

If only the DSM world had a "rat ride" division.

Yeah I'll be sure to subscribe as soon as one becomes available. I know it doesn't look pretty under the hood but for now I'm working with what I've got, and this is a rather quick car as is.

 

[JeCliPz]

The J pipe has just been cut and re-welded to acheive the angle that you see in the pic. What would be a better way of running the lower ICP? There's not alot of space in there, but i realize it would be good to keep it away from the ex. manifold.
I would very much like to get rid of "that intake contraption," but it's also where my MAF is, so how do I work it out with just a k&n cone? that is a 3" intake pipe by the way. Will I need to get a GM MAF?

What are the advatages of shelling out for coilovers instead of regular springs/struts? I could probably find that in an FAQ......

Thanks alot for the help FourreGsixty3!!

 

[fourreGsixty3]

The J-pipe on SBR allows for the LICP to be run behind the rad then it just cuts upwards to the J-pipe, you dont see it unless you look straight down at it.There are plenty of threads on people using 3" hard air intake pipes, and a k&n filter with a 1G MAFT, you can also use the GM MAFT kit from SBR that would replace the !G MAFT system, this costs 409$, but it allows you to vent your BOV to the atmosphere, and helps fine tuning. The GM would be mounted on your UICP about 6 to 8"s from your TB, but I would suggest getting Hard U & LICP first, this will net you a few hp more, but give better throttle response. The coilovers will allow for adjusting ride height, so you dont bottom out while driving on the street, unlike buying springs and struts that will just drop you down. i highly suggest getting a SAFC-II or DSMLink, this is where most noob's go wrong, this will allow for tuning so you can get the max power from your DSM instead of buying random parts, and you dont get the max out of them.

Dustin

 

[JeCliPz]

That sounds like a much better LICP set up, and would give me room to put power steering back in as that's where the pipe currently goes. I'm sure they are here somewhere, but I'm having trouble finding threads on the intake set up you're suggesting. Btw, the advantages of a GM MAF are primarily diameter of the sensor right? Because this intake 'contraption' (I honestly have no idea what the hell this thing actually is) that I currently have seems to have a 3" MAf.
If I go with lowering springs and stiffer struts, shouldn't I be safe from bottoming out as long as I have the appropriate spring rate? Either way, coilover or springs, the spring rate is what ultimately determines the stiffness of ride right?

 

[fourreGsixty3]

This is link has a pic of an SBR FMIC with the piping set-up that I was talking about>>>http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=154&. As far as the threads Ill look around and post back. For the springs, yes spring rates are part of it, but this is what Im trying to get at...say there is a pot hole or in construction on a road with a straight drop off from pavement to dirt, with the GCs you can keep the car at stock height for DDing on the streets, and drop it down at the track when you go with a few turns to the front coilovers, the rear ones those are harder to adjust though. With a 1" drop on your car you will be much more likely to bottom out, I have bottomed out going 15mph down a road at stock height, and the road was paved, it sucked but paved non the less. The struts you want to get are the adjustable kyb agx's or koni yellow's. On your intake pipe its just called a 1G Maf, the 3" Gm Maf is called that because....here's a pic a pic is worth 1,000 words>>>http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=5134& , this like I said before would go on the UICP 6 to 8"s before your TB. If $$$ isnt really tight I would just get the GM Maft Kit, hard ICPs that look like the ones on thee SBR link I gave to, get 4-py silicon couplers, and a hard air intake pipe with a k&n. http://www.dsmtuners.com/sub.php?page=1gtstage1power This is a great guide, you will have to make a few variants to it do to the previous guy.

Dustin

 

[JeCliPz]

Ok yeah I understand the ICP setup you're talking about. I also took a look at the stock air filter box on my parts car, and I think maybe I'm just running a stock/ hacked air box? what I'm wondering is, if I replace that with a K&N filter, what do I use for a MAF since it is currently in the airbox that I would be replacing? Assuming K&N filters don't come with an airflow meter and adapter to plug into.
I checked my injectors; they have blue caps. So, that means they are stock and I should not try to exceed 15 psi boost right? I also removed my VC and see no markings on the cams.

 

[eclipsh]

Before you go looking for mods to the car, I'd say fix what is damaged, like the exhaust manifold, and do some maintenance. It looks like your valve cover seals are leaking and I'm sure a more is too. Get the car cleaned up and running well. Then figure out what you want it to do and plan from there.

I'd also check the compression of the engine. Make sure it is even across the board and post some numbers up on here. Also do a leakdown test while you're at it. If there is a big difference between the leakdown and the dry test you should plan on an engine rebuild before you go looking at turbos/injectors etc. A strong bottom end is the first place to start.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

If you do a K&N then I personally would just go to a GM MAF set-up on the UICP, if you get the kit, then you cut the HUICP straight then slide the 2 couplers SBR supplies place the clamps on and then slide the couplers over the GM Mafs and tighten the clamps down then plug the translator in. I have not yet done this mod but it is in the near future for myself. Others that have done it could possibley do a walk through on what you do after what I just said. But it seems very simple and with a little know how you should be able to do it. Yes, do not exceed 15psi, with the 14b's and 16g's, it is recommended to get a larger fuel pump once you make the 15-16psi, when you make 18psi you should upgrade to 550cc injectors. The k&n wont have a spot to plug the maft into. The cams are stock just like I said.
EDIT: ECLIPSH yeah I mentioned maintenance before like fluids, plugs, ect, but good point on going deeper into it, with leak down test, and comp. test.

Dustin

 

[eclipsh]

I'm going to have to disagree with the GM MAF and Translator. They are a lot of work to tune. I've read several nightmare stories on them. In my book I'd say you will be much happier spending your money elsewhere. Do lots of research before you run off to go buy it JeCliPz.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Yeah def. do your research, and yes there are bad stories, but also good ones just like everything else. Yes its also true that they can be difficult to tune but someone knowing what they are doing sould be able to handle it. Here's a link to a tech article on how to instal a dejon tool intake pipe with a filter, this way you can keep the 1G MAFS >> > http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=226075, either way is fine, this second way will cost much less, rougly 200$, and it will look much cleaner and not hacked up as the current contraption on there.

Dustin

 

[JeCliPz]

Good Call eclipsh on the general maintenance. However, all is not quite as bad as it may look in the pic. The ex. manifold, though it has gotten quite hot and looks strange, is not cracked (I will probably upgrade to a 2g or headers eventually). Pretty much the entire engine compartment has a thin coat of oil because the car had a leaking dipstick issue when I bought it.
I am actually in the process of replacing the head gasket right now (and i mean right now, I just ran back inside to check this thread) because it blew a month or so ago when my cooling fans quit and it overheated. I hope to have the head off today and take it down to check for cracks, have it planed, and maybe even grind the valves but haven't decided on that one yet.

 

[JeCliPz]

I'm going to have to disagree with the GM MAF and Translator. They are a lot of work to tune. I've read several nightmare stories on them. In my book I'd say you will be much happier spending your money elsewhere. Do lots of research before you run off to go buy it JeCliPz.

Any reccommendations on where else to look? what other kind of set ups are available, reasonably priced, and simple to install/operate? as I said before, I will need some sort of MAF if I remove the apparently hacked airbox I currently have.

That Dejon intake looks like a decent way to go. I already have the intake pipe, and would just need to get a filter and attatch it accordingly.

 

[eclipsh]

Honestly, I woldn't worry about it. If the MAF you have works fine then there is no reason to mess with it. The can it is in doesn't look too hot but a lot of that is because of the rest of the engine bay. What you have is actually very functional. The Filter is at the end of the MAS instead of arround it. If you look at our 1g MAS you'll notice that the intake for it pokes really far out into the regular cone filters. The way yours is set up it should theoretically make the airflow direction smoother through the MAS and give you better performance.

So... I'd leave it. See if you can clean up the appearance of it a bit if you want to but if it works why spend money on something that isn't really an improvement. You won't need a bigger MAS sensor until you are making big HP numbers further down the road. Then you can deside if you need a GM MAS or a 2g/3g mas etc.

Or if you really want to change it up you can do something similar to what I did. Go check out my gallery. I've got two different air box setups that I built, both of which help keep hot air away from the intake.

 

[JeCliPz]

Or if you really want to change it up you can do something similar to what I did. Go check out my gallery. I've got two different air box setups that I built, both of which help keep hot air away from the intake.

Yeah I did take a look at yours already: looks pretty clean. One thing I am alittle worried about at this point with my filter is how actual filtering it's doing. I don't know if you can tell from the pic, but it's pretty much just a foam pad loosely affixed to the end of the stock airbox. Not much of a filter there.
Anyway, you guys have probably given me enough to work with for now, so I'll stop asking questions and just start playing with it until I figure out something I like.
Oh one more thing, any reccomendations on how to make my engine bay shine? I'll probably just pressure wash and start scrubbing.

 

[eclipsh]

Yeah, Simple Green and a citrus engine cleaner should cut through most of it.

Also a scrub brush, one wire, one just synthetic for painted areas.