I did a search on EGT gauges(still didn't help)

[dzolcali]

Ok, so I know an EGT gauge measure the exhaust gas temperature of the first runner of the exhaust manifold. Now after searching to no avail I couldn't answer this question.
a guy told me that the EGT measures how rich or lean your car is running. I would think that is an AF gauge but i'm still fresh to car modding and so forth.

Is this statement true, and if so how could I back up that argument that EGT does or doesn't measure how rich or lean your car is running.

What exactly do you use an EGT gauge for when tuning?

Thanks for any experienced help, it is very appreciated. I don't like to talk out of my ass so good honest opinions and lots of information is what I strive for when learning about new things.

 

[Dark_Horse]

The leaner the A/F ratio, the hotter the charge is. So, under WOT, the higher your EGT readings are, the higher your A/F ratio is.

As far as the EGT gauge and usefulness in tuning, I think EGT gauges are worthless once you have a WB O2 or datalogger. IMO a datalogger is just about the 1st mod anyone should do...And definitely the 1st mod when attempting to run larger injectors/SAFC etc.

But, if you don't have a datalogger or WB O2, you "can" use EGT gauge and keep your WOT EGT temps under, I believe it's 900 degrees Celsius, to have a relatively safe tune.

 

[94awdcoupe]

5 minutes of searching and I yielded this info from http://www.portadiesel.com/docs/egt.html

Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) is a good indicator of your engine's performance. Accuracy in Exhaust Gas Temp (EGT) is very important. The turbo doesn't make heat; it absorbs the heat and uses the exhaust pressure. As the exhaust is blown across the turbine blades, the blades spin at incredible speeds. The shaft of the turbine wheel is slaved to the compressor wheel so they spin together. When you spool up the turbine, the compressor turns as well. Generally speaking, the faster it spins, the more boost the turbo will make. The problem comes when you're trying to turn the turbine too fast. To do this, it takes a lot of heat and pressure. If you get the turbine too hot, it can damage the turbo. At 1270 degrees F, the tips of the turbine blades begin to blow. If you get them too hot, they'll straighten out or even melt and you'll ruin the turbo. The factory Garrett turbocharger will pull all day long at 1250 degrees, but in our opinion, 1270 degrees is the DO NOT EXCEED temp for sustained use.

There is contradictory opinion and advice about the best place to install the temperature reading device (thermocouple) that supports the pyrometer, but there is no disagreement that watching EGTs with a graduated gauge is a good thing to do.

EGT's will run about 300 degrees F at idle to 1400+ degrees F under an extreme load (such as merging onto the interstate with 25,000 lbs.) Normal running temps will be between 500 to 900 degrees F. With EGT's at 600 degrees F, the 7.3L engine wis operating at its peak efficiency. Complete combustion is being achieved and converted into usable horsepower and torque as efficiently as possible. Maximum fuel mileage is achieved at this point. Above 600 degrees F the engine gets wasteful with the fuel due to load demands. Below 600 degrees F and you lose efficiency (Power and Torque). So when you're out on the road, pay attention to the gauge. If EGT's start to creep up, simply ease out of the throttle.

Some publications dealing with EGT temps favor Turbocharger Inlet Temp (TIT) and not Turbocharger Outlet Temp (TOT). This suggests that the thermocouple should be mounted Pre-Turbo (in the exhaust manifold) and not Post-turbo. (in the down pipe) In their view, if you choose to mount the thermocouple in the down pipe, EGT readings will be inaccurate. With the thermocouple in the down pipe, the gauge reacts more slowly and is reading the TOT which is lower than the actual temp of the turbocharger. The difference between TIT and TOT can be as little as 50 degrees F to as much as 400 degrees F under a heavy load.

Other experts point out that installing the thermocouple in the exhaust manifold, ahead of the turbo, raises the possibility of the thermocouple breaking loose in the heated air stream and damaging the turbo. With greater accuracy goes greater risk.

One expert gauge manufacturer suggests that mounting the thermocouple in the downpipe and watching for a sustained temperature of 1050 F, is just as good as mounting in the pre-turbo position. Logic would suggest that if the temperature can vary as much as 400 degrees from the input to output side, then the sustained TOT temperature to be watched for under extreme load should be more like 870 F (1270F "straightening" point minus the possible 400 F variation.)

The most convenient installation of the thermocouple for a TIT application is in the lowest point of the driver's side exhaust manifold. The manifold itself is made of a high silicon cast iron and is very easy to drill and tap. There is a place on the manifold that makes for an easy installation and since it's the lowest point of the exhaust manifold, the metal chips are easy to clean out. (Greasing the drill bit to capture and contain any loose metal chips does not seem to help much. Some owners drill with the motor running to blow the metal chips out in real time.)

The best location for installation of the thermocouple for a TOT application is in the downpipe as close to the turbo as possible.

This article is based on our own research through the trade literature, and discussion with gauge manufacturers. You will generally find that neither the manufacturer of the truck, the engine, or the various manufacturers of pyrometers take a public position on where to put the thermocouple. Neither do we. In short, watching your EGT's is highly recommended if you operate under heavy load. And just as in deciding how fast to drive, there is risk and reward in deciding where to place the thermocouple. We hope that the information presented will help you to reach a reasoned conclusion on your own. If you need additional information, you should consult your Ford dealer.

 

[delta448]

EGT gauges are primarily a problem prevention measure. An EGT gauge basically tells you how hot a combustion you have inside the cylinder(s). Depending on where you tap your thermocouple probe into the exhaust stream you can monitor different aspects, either the engine as a whole or the cylinder that you decide will be running the leanest A/F mixture. On DSMs logic tells us that cylinder #1 gets the leanest mixture because its injector is the last one in line to feed from the fuel rail.

(This may help explain the fuel problems: http://www.stevetek.com/R-FuelSys.html )

So most people will tap the exhaust manifold runner from cylinder #1. You can use the temp readings to determine if you are running leaner or richer, leaner mixtures burn hotter. While a slightly lean mixture will provide you with the most power, an EGT gauge can help you avoid detonation, melting your engine internals or melting your turbine blades by running too lean. Generally an A/F gauge tells you the overall ratio for all cylinders, which is good to know, but it won't tell you if the leanest cylinder is in the danger zone. This is the only major advantage an EGT gauge gives you over an A/F, in my opinion. If something is going wrong with the fuel delivery system, an EGT should be able to prove it. I believe that most tuners will want to maximize the longevity of their engine when they tune, and knowing your EGT helps you be safe and also helps diagnose problems if you don't have a datalogger.

Now that said, I agree with Dark_Horse about the datalogger 100%. He's absolutely right that a logger is a very important purchase, and I kind of feel reckless for not having one yet. However, I just bought my DSM recently and most of the major $$ mods to my car were already done. A datalogger was not installed or included with the car and I haven't decided what datalogger I'm going to get yet, so that is why I'm turning the boost up very conservatively at the moment and keeping a watchful eye on my EGTs from cyl #1. I recommend anyone else without a logger to err on the side of caution as well. If you don't have one, you should definitely buy a logger before an EGT gauge in my opinion.

 

[DGajre777]

Rep points to both of you above for the good info!

On a good tune if your EGT gauge is installed in runner 1, the temp should be 1600 deg F. For a downpipe install it should be around 1250 deg F.