[RESOLVED] Cracked oil filter housing

[spyderturbo007]

Well, yesterday I was replacing the clutch slave cylinder and the oil pressure sending unit for the idiot light. Because I'm a moron, I overtightened the sending unit and cracked the oil filter housing.

Anyway, I was able to JB Weld the existing housing long enough to get the car home from my friends garage while I wait for the dealer to order the new one.

This is what I ordered:

Oil filter bracket (MD199775) $57.75
Oil filter bracket gasket (MD 185528) $1.65
O-ring for oil filter spline (unknown) $not sure

Anyway, on to the questions.

When I called the dealership they asked me if I needed the oil filter spline.

He explained that is the part that the oil filter screws into. I told him that I did not and that I only needed the housing that contains the oil pressure sending units.

How do I remove the oil filter bracket? (Looks to me like you remove the splash shield and then 3 bolts and it comes right off)

How do I remove the spline from the bracket?

What will I find in there? (Do I have to worry about anything when I remove the housing?)

Installation tips? Such as pipe dope on the bolts, teflon tape, coat anything with oil before installation, tricks, etc?

Thanks!!

P.S. The torque specs on the oil pressure sending unit are in in/lbs not ft/lbs.........I'm such an idiot!

 

[ddavisaf]

How do I remove the oil filter bracket? (Looks to me like you remove the splash shield and then 3 bolts and it comes right off)

Yup

How do I remove the spline from the bracket?

I'm struggling with this one. I WANT to say it's a 10mm hex. But I'm not certain. Someone back me up.

What will I find in there? (Do I have to worry about anything when I remove the housing?)

Don't use Teflon tape on the sending units. Thread lock is fine, just don't use the tape. It supposedly interferes with the signal (never has happened to me, I'm a rebel though).

Chilton's rock. You won't have any problems with this.

 

[spyderturbo007]

I'm struggling with this one. I WANT to say it's a 10mm hex. But I'm not certain. Someone back me up.

Ok, I just wanted to verify that you are able to seperate the two.

Don't use Teflon tape on the sending units. Thread lock is fine, just don't use the tape.

Do you mean something like lock-tite or just thread sealant?

Chilton's rock. You won't have any problems with this.

My buddy is a mechanic and lets me use his shop when I need to so I have access to AllData.....Or as we like to call it, SomeData.

I found a schematic, but no procedure for removal/replacement.

Is the oil pump sprocket inside that housing? Do I need to lube anything up before installing the new housing?

Thanks..... I appreciate the help.

 

[ddavisaf]

Do you mean something like lock-tite or just thread sealant?

Either or, just not tape. I prefer lock-tite, I use blue strength (medium).

Is the oil pump sprocket inside that housing? Do I need to lube anything up before installing the new housing?

The oil pump gears are located in the front case. On the back side. The oil filter housing, bolts onto the front case. So, if you're just replacing the oil filter housing, there is no need to remove the front case, unless you're wanting to replace the gears in the oil pump as well. In order to do this though, you must remove the timing and balance shaft belts, etc. etc.
Do you *need* to lube anything? No, should you? Wouldn't be a bad idea. When dealing with anything car related, it's a good idea to lube 'er up.
I'm going to take out my spare oil filter housing (rebuilding a block at the moment) and double check your gear question in relation to the filter housing. I havn't touched it in two weeks because I was sent the wrong front case and got pissed off at it...

Write back in about an hour or so, feel free to PM.

 

[spyderturbo007]

I just wanted to let everyone know that the installation of the oil filter bracket was more difficult than described above. After transfer of the sensors and the oil feed line for my EVO III, I proceeded to remove the oil cooler. No problems so far, everything is going according to plan.

Then it happened. I went to unbolt the old bracket and it wouldn't come off. Weird. Upon examination of the new bracket, I discovered that one of the bolts was behind the lower timing belt cover.

I ended up removing the tension on the alternator and A/C compressor so I could remove both belts. Then I unbolted the pully attached to the crank and removed that. Took out the 4 bolts for the lower timing belt cover and was able to pull back the cover enoudh to expose the hidden bolt. After doing that, everything went well.

I just wanted to post that information up in case it becomes useful to someone in the future.

 

[sarge281]

Yes Do not over tighten that at all. I did, broke it and the housing cracked and its $75 and there is a bolt behind the timing cover so you gotta take all that off.

Hey guys, what's going on? I've read these forums & FAQs for years, but never really posted or replied until now. I replaced my stock oil pressure sensor with a new one from my local Mitsu. Factory Dealer, and it looked totally different. But, the thread looked correct, so I proceeded to thread it in...got around 1/3 of the way in, and heard a 'snap'. I cracked the threads on the oil filter housing (and now its dripping badly). Any advice about where to go about getting a new one? Should I go back to the dealer or search the net first? I'm not made of money, and at times I wonder If my parts rep. @ the dealer really knows what he's talking about. Could I find a better deal online? Also, how much of a pain is it to replace this thing? Thanks a lot.

 

[Defiant]

JNZ Tuning - Directory

 

[spyderturbo007]

Also, how much of a pain is it to replace this thing? Thanks a lot.

Maybe you missed my post about how to replace the bracket but if you scroll up the page, you'll find everything you need. It's not hard, just take your time and you'll be fine.

 

[Defiant]

Baling wire and duct tape are engineering materials in the Midwest. They're naturals for DSMs.