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Fixing rod knock... possible?

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Fayt

20+ Year Contributor
515
15
Mar 26, 2005
Cleveland, Ohio
Alright.. so my motor is ####ed up. Heres the story...

Going on the highway @ 60mph in 5th gear. Went to pass, my turbo spools up but doesn't even pull. I'm like "shit, my turbo is shot". Well, I'm at almost WOT, and I'm DECELERATING! I get to the off ramp, car shuts off and wont turn back on. I pull off to the side, the whole thing is overheated hardcore. I can hear the oil bubbling, and there is white smoke coming out. After it cools down, I try to start it. After giving it some gas, it starts up, and now there is a VERY loud knock coming from the valve cover.

What I wanted to know... is this crankwalk or rod knock? Do I need to replace my motor, or can I buy parts to fix it?

I'm kind of poor right now, so I'm trying to figure out the best solution. Anybody know of some cheap 6 bolts?
 
same thing happened to me. I was on the highway i went wot and would go over 90, my turbo was shot, had very low oil pressure, and i spun a rod bearing. I got the same knock that i thought came from the valve cover but it was the rod. take your oil pan off and look for metal shavings, also try to move the rod's end caps if they move youll know that that was a bearing that got shot. Many say time for a six bolt but i was also short in cash so i just did a rebuild now it works all good again
 
it is probally rod knock. i just spun a rod bearing in my car, and i was also on a budget.
to tell you the truth, there really isnt a good easy way to fix this. it is possible to get the crank ground and get new bearings and a new rod. but it is not the best way.

you will for sure have to have the motor pulled and the block disasembled. if you want to do it the right way you will buy new rods and pistons. chances are the rods could be bent now and the pistons could have slapped the walls. it is either time for a 6 bolt or you need to rebuild the block.
 
It wasn't pegged, but was about 3/4 up the gauge. Oil pressure was high too.

Not leaking anything from the engine bay, and nothing burning out the exhaust.
Runs perfectly fine now except for this loud metallic knock, dont know if it spools up though.

Defiant, any fix for jumped timing?
 
If you're luckyand you didn't jump timing enough for the valves to kiss the pistons, you can just pull the timing belt, line up the crank and cams gears and reinstall the belt.

But my guess is rod knock. When I spun a brearing, it sounded like it was coming from the valve cover/timing belt area.
 
definatly sounds like you ate up a rod bearing, the simplist way to tell is going to be draining the oil from the engine and looking at it. If it has chunks of metal and/or severe metallic coloring to it then :( . Though its most likely a rod bearing either way you have had a serious engine failure and will need an overhaul.
 
So if I spun it, what parts would be salvageable/needed for a 6 bolt swap? I have almost NO money, so I'm buying just a block + 6bolt crank w/pistons. What should I check on to see if it is salvageable, besides the 2g head?
 
doesnt really matter whats salvagable your not going to need it.

you will however need atleast, 6bolt shortblock, complete with front case and oil filter bracket, oil pan, rear main seal, awd flywheel, timing components, timing cover, 12mm head studs,

The only thing you really need off your old engine is all the sensors and a motor mount bracket, and all bolt ons like your manifold and turbo. 2g head needs to be machined to accept 12mm head bolts.

you also need a 1g cam angle sensor and pigtail.

all this and more is posted everywhere else too
 
if you find out that there is no metal chunks in ## pan you could probably just have a exhaust leak where your manifold and head meets
 
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