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intall for a safc on a 420a

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dsm na tuner

Probationary Member
12
0
Oct 13, 2004
tacoma, Washington
i drive a 95 rs eclipse and bought a safc but do not know how to install or better yet which wires i need to hook it up to if any one knows what i can do please help I've looked at 2gnt and it is no help as it dose not tell specifically which is the 12v switched wire also the wire colors do not seem to match up to the ecu pinouts they have posted so if some one can say which wires go where it will be very much appreciated
 
To start this off i don't know that much about the n/t cars but what are you doing that makes you need a S-AFC? Also what else would you be tunning with? Did you check vfaq.com for a wiring diagram?
 
kicknurass4fun said:
To start this off i don't know that much about the n/t cars but what are you doing that makes you need a S-AFC? Also what else would you be tunning with? Did you check vfaq.com for a wiring diagram?

well i have full aftermarket exhaust a cia, 36lb injectors, 60mm tb, obx intake mani, high volume fuel rail, unorthodox crank pulley, aem tru time gears, msd coil pack, and i have my head and intake manifold in the shop getting port and polished, also i am saving for the Hahn stage 2 turbo kit and dis 2 ignition and i plan on putting in a wide band o2 sensor. but i have the safc in my car and hate having it just sit there and look at me doing nothing appreciate the interest though :thumb:
 
Not to be an ass, but I thought I would share some info with you...

dsm na tuner said:
full aftermarket exhaust
Does not require use of SAFC tuning.

dsm na tuner said:
CAI. This does nto require SAFC tuning either.

dsm na tuner said:
36lb injectors
These could benefit from the use of a SAFC, but you have absolutely zero need for them. Put the stockers back in and save these for when you boost that pig. Seriously.

dsm na tuner said:
This does not require SAFC tuning (and is overkill on a NA inline four).

dsm na tuner said:
obx intake mani
This was a waste of your money (and does not require SAFC tuning).

dsm na tuner said:
high volume fuel rail
This, too, was a waste of your money (and, again, does not require SAFC tuning).

dsm na tuner said:
unorthodox crank pulley
Sensible mod. Still, no need for SAFC.

dsm na tuner said:
aem tru time gears
On stock cams? SAFC? Nope. Now, throw in some Crower 2+ cams and you could use the SAFC to lean out the stock injectors at idle in the interest of preventing flooding the engine and stalling at stop lights. That's right, the stock injectors supply too much fuel at idle due to the revised vacuum numbers these more aggressive cams generate at idle.

dsm na tuner said:
msd coil pack
Basic maintenance, imo. (Although I'm running a completely stock, 174k+ miles, ignition system with my build.)

dsm na tuner said:
head and intake manifold in the shop getting port and polished
You're getting the stock IM runners ported out a bit? As in machining the injector "humps" down? That's a smart move. Use that OBX shit for an ashtray like the rest of us do. If you don't smoke, it makes a lovely paper weight.

dsm na tuner said:
i am saving for the Hahn stage 2 turbo kit and dis 2 ignition and i plan on putting in a wide band o2 sensor.
Those injectors should wait until this goes in. Get the wbO2 before that ignition system. It's more important.

dsm na tuner said:
i have the safc in my car and hate having it just sit there and look at me doing nothing
My $500 Zeitronix Zt-2 wbO2 comes on, does a self-test, and then makes a bunch of shit up because I am too lazy to drill another hole in the firewall, actually stick the sensor in the pipe, and connect it. I know what you mean.

In all honesty, I see a degree of susceptibility to corporate marketing in your build list. Some of the mods you have right now are no good to you either now or even later. You don't need that kind of fuel on even a fully built, fully ported NA 420A with cams and a super thunderclutchwhirlydingy under the hood. You're off to a decent start, though.

What compression ratio are you running?
 
I'm glad you say I'm on the right track. But I have a few questions for you, why do you say the obx mani is garbage also isn't it going to be alot more efficient if it is port matched and polished? And why is a fuel rail a waste of money? at the moment I am running stock injectors again these also are sitting in my room doing not a damn thing until i p&p then i want to put these in and lean them off with the safc. basically i am getting every bolt on for my car so i have what i need when the bottom end is stroked and i boost it. also I'm having oversized valves put in with the port and polish. and as far as you said about the cams i only want to buy cams once so i am waiting for the turbo, do you have any suggestion on cams for boosted-N2o i don't plan on anything super huge but i do want something probably a 50-75 shot and have the turbo do most of the grunt work. anyway I'm looking for help on how to install the safc, not criticism constructive or not although i do like hearing what other people have to say. to answer your question about the compression it is stock i have plans for the bottom end such as a stroked 2.2 w/8:6.1 compression. thanks for your input and even taking the time though. ;)
 
I got this wiring diagram off of vfaq i don't know if there is a difference between the turbo and non turbo wiring diagrams but here is one for a 2g.

http://www.ecanfix.com/~aclifford/tree/images/index/mods/superafc/afc.jpg

Hope this helps.

Before you start tunning. Do you have a datalogger of some sort? I would check your injector duty cycles to see if you even need bigger injectors. I would leave the stock injectors in if the duty cycle isn't to high that way the ecu can still tune it properly. If you don't have a data logger or a wide band installed in your car I wouldn't touch anything with a s-afc till you do. Just my 2 cents.

Good luck with the project.
 
dsm na tuner said:
why do you say the obx mani is garbage also isn't it going to be alot more efficient if it is port matched and polished?
Let me ask YOU a question - why is it supposed to be better? What issues with the stock IM are being addressed by this OBX piece? Does OBX have a reputation of putting out the finest quality parts on the market or putting a lot of generic stuff out there with lower prices? Maybe, with a turbo, an upgraded IM would be a good idea, but I only know of a couple people using that OBX or Venom IM and they're not exactly doing anything of note. Important things to think about when looking at IMs are runner diameter and length. Are you aiming for power down low? Up high? All around?

dsm na tuner said:
why is a fuel rail a waste of money?
You don't have any need for it. You going to be making more than 300whp anytime soon?

dsm na tuner said:
at the moment I am running stock injectors again these also are sitting in my room doing not a damn thing until i p&p then i want to put these in and lean them off with the safc.
Ok, I guess. Install something more than you need and then de-tune it. Seems like a waste to me. What if the SAFC can't lean them back enough for you? Then what? You don't need them, so there's no point in installing them.

dsm na tuner said:
basically i am getting every bolt on for my car so i have what i need when the bottom end is stroked and i boost it.
What sort of time frame are you talking about for your bottom end? Within the next three months? Six? A year? Personally, I'd rather get the bottom end taken care of first, and then slap on the bolt-on crap afterwards. It's easier.

dsm na tuner said:
do you have any suggestion on cams for boosted-N2o
You plan on tuning a bottle-fed & boosted, stroker 2GNT with just an SAFC? You need to do some more homework. Scratch that. You need to do a lot more homework. To answer your question, Crower 2 turbo grind.

dsm na tuner said:
have the turbo do most of the grunt work.
I might be completely off-base here, but I'm pretty sure the nitrous does the grunt work to help you spool a fat turbo. Not the other way around. Maybe someone who actually runs both can clarify for both of us.

dsm na tuner said:
I'm looking for help on how to install the safc, not criticism constructive or not
When I see someone asking for help installing something they have zero need for and they post a mod list that smells like a drunken Friday night home alone on eBay, I figure they need more than just SAFC install information. My bad.

dsm na tuner said:
i do like hearing what other people have to say.
Good deal, as that's sort of what happens when you participate on a discussion forum.

dsm na tuner said:
i have plans for the bottom end such as a stroked 2.2 w/8:6.1 compression.
Sounds cool.

dsm na tuner said:
thanks for your input and even taking the time though. ;)
You're welcome. I'd just like to mention that you're talking some serious modifications to your engine. Like I said, it looks like you went to the Howell Automotive website and picked the most expensive engine package, then decided turbo wasn't enough and decided you wanted to spray too, but you're not really putting things together in the right order. How are you going to boost this engine? Didn't you say you were getting an HRC 2 w? FMIC? What are you nitrous plans?

I don't know you personally, but you seem like you're building without goals. What are your goals? Some specific number you want to put to the wheels? An E.T. at the track? If you don't have a target to aim for, you are only shooting randomly in the dark. My advice to you would be to sell the SAFC, the IM, the injectors, and the rail. Use that money for getting your block. You wouldn't buy an intercooler until you were ready to buy the rest of the turbo parts, why buy a bunch of shit you don't need that's only going to hurt you in the meantime?
 
honestly i really don't know anything about the obx mani except for i was told it would be better for turbo. basically i want good all around power, and with the Hahn set up i do hope to break 300 hp.
so injectors are something i should wait for the boost?
the bottom end i hope to have done in about six months or so but what you say about the bottom end being done first i may be wrong but don't you have to have the turbo to even make the thing move w/such low compression?
i NEVER said I "plan on tuning a bottle-fed & boosted, stroker 2GNT with just an SAFC", i want the safc for the turbo then get a good EMS then put the bottle to her.
I really don't know all that much as far as n2o goes i do however know for the track I'd like a little kick though. and n2o is not super important to me id just like to have it and know what cams are good for both but primarily turbo if i never add spray it wont bother me
this car is not a daily driver so i would like to make it as fast as possible for the track, yes it is the 2.2 bottom from howell i figure when i get the topend back it will done up enough for such a strong bottom end.
"You wouldn't buy an intercooler until you were ready to buy the rest of the turbo parts"
i don't even know where that came from the Hahn 2 set up comes w an intercooler so i wont be buying pieces of a turbo I'll be buying it all at once. thanks for the input. :cool:
 
dsm na tuner said:
honestly i really don't know anything about the obx mani except for i was told it would be better for turbo.
I wonder if the guy who sold it to you could explain why it is "better?" Then again, maybe :notgood: he was just told it would be better for turbo like you were. In any case, this is an item laughed at by most seasoned turbo 2GNT owners. It does not deliver gains commensurate with its cost. The stock IM is a turd, but it's a better value than anything else out on the market right now for the turbo 2GNT. Personally, if I buy a part for my car, I know what it will do and why I want it, because of how it helps me achieve my goals.

dsm na tuner said:
basically i want good all around power, and with the Hahn set up i do hope to break 300 hp.
This is a good start, but later on in your post, you say you don't plan on this being a daily driver. If that is the case, why not aim higher? I have a good friend in Houston with a turbo 2GNT making 400whp on a 20G at 22lbs. It's bascially his daily driver, he takes it out a couple nights a week to mess with ricers. ;)

dsm na tuner said:
so injectors are something i should wait for the boost?
Exactly. 36lbers are not going to get you anywhere near your target HP goal of 300 or so. Grossly inadequate. So, why put them in only to have to upgrade right away? (Or why put them in when you have no need of them NA?)

dsm na tuner said:
the bottom end i hope to have done in about six months or so but what you say about the bottom end being done first i may be wrong but don't you have to have the turbo to even make the thing move w/such low compression?
No. For each point you change in the compression ratio (CR), you adjust HP by 4%. You can pretty much bank on this. (At least on a 2GNT, and I'm thinking it's BHP, not WHP.) So, if you have a stock 420A making 140hp at 9.6:1CR and you drop that to 8.6:1CR, you're looking at 134.4hp. Now, if you have headwork, cams and all the proper supporting mods, you might not even notice a difference, but you're not incapacitating the car by dropping CR a point like that. The lower CR just gives you a bit more leniency when tuning the boost.

dsm na tuner said:
i NEVER said I "plan on tuning a bottle-fed & boosted, stroker 2GNT with just an SAFC", i want the safc for the turbo then get a good EMS then put the bottle to her.
Okay. What I'm trying to get across to you is this: If you're going to get some kind of EMS (forget that AEM garbage and look into Megaquirt like the rest of us), then buying a SAFC is a waste of money. Money that would be better spent getting your foundation built. Do you think anyone running a stand alone is also playing with a SAFC? Show me someone on this board with DSMlink and SAFC and I'll show you someone searching for "SAFC takeing out, SAFC unstlal," or "mY SAFC tOoK a ShItZ0Rz HELP Wut Dee EFF!!!!1!" (I get such a kick out of that one.) ;)

dsm na tuner said:
I really don't know all that much as far as n2o goes i do however know for the track I'd like a little kick though. and n2o is not super important to me id just like to have it and know what cams are good for both but primarily turbo if i never add spray it wont bother me
Okay. There's nothing wrong with that. I would just narrow your focus to more short term goals like you're doing, but tie them together a bit better. Instead of taking baby steps towards getting it all done at the same time, try to make these first steps towards completing one aspect of things efficiently, without buying something you really don't need at this stage.

dsm na tuner said:
this car is not a daily driver so i would like to make it as fast as possible for the track, yes it is the 2.2 bottom from howell i figure when i get the topend back it will done up enough for such a strong bottom end.
The bottom end takes the abuse of the higher horsepower, but the power is made in the head. Basically, now you will have to remove your sweet new head to install the new block when you're ready for that. To give you some idea, I did my bottom end first so that I wouldn't have to dick with it again. Yank the old head, bolt up the new one and I was gonna be done. (Fate had other plans, but still. You get the idea.)

dsm na tuner said:
Me said:
""You wouldn't buy an intercooler until you were ready to buy the rest of the turbo parts":
i don't even know where that came from the Hahn 2 set up comes w an intercooler so i wont be buying pieces of a turbo I'll be buying it all at once. thanks for the input. :cool:
Okay. Let me spell this one out for you. Yes, I know the HRC2 comes with an IC, but you wouldn't spend $700 on an intercooler a year before you had the rest of the kit, would you? You wouldn't then install that intercooler without the turbo, would you? Of course not. That's dumb, right?

Another example: If you were building a house, would you buy the shingles before the roof was on the house? Would you just go out to the lot and start putting up the frame before you laid the foundation? Of course not!

I'm basically saying that your main focus should be setting your goals (which you have, to some extent) and putting your engine together before installing things you need for that high-output turbo set up for which you're planning. The time and money you're spending on things you don't need until you're turbocharged is time and money you don't have for getting that bad boy built and ready for action.

Oh yeah, and you can run whatever cams you want. You don't have to have turbo or nitrous for any of them. Crower makes a Stage 2 cam with a turbo-friendly bias on the exhaust side which is promising and you would still see gains in NA trim with them.

Keep thinking about things. Before you buy something, ask yourself "What do I want to get done first? Will this help me get that done?" If it isn't related, see if you can find something that is more useful to you where you are right now. :thumb:

Later
 
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