2g T28 install

[2gGSX]

I'm thinking of putting my new turbo on and an assortment of other stuff on sometime soon, and was wondering if anyone had any tips for a first-time turbo job. I realize this is a bolt on process, but if anyone knows something to make things easier it'd be appreciated The turbo came with a braided ss oil feed line to the filter (as opposed to the head), so as far as I know I still need..

6cm^2 turbo-manifold gasket
O2-downpipe gasket
at least two oil return gaskets

probably a set of nice turbo bolts
some kerosene to clean out the stock return line

Does anyone know if I'm missing anything here, or have any tips for me?

[pboglio]

...Run the car hot for a while without the heatshield on. With the car idleing or just turned off, grab a breaker bar and 14mm socket and break loose all 4 turbo/manifold bolts. This prevents galling and stripping the bolts. I reuse the bolts maybe twice then I buy new ones.

...I would use blue locktite (medium strength) on the 2 machine screw threads that bolt the oil return line to the oil pan. Oil will leak thru the threads and cause an oil leak. Locktite takes care of it completely.

...Go easy on the silicone when applying it to the oil return gasket, all you need is just a thin layer. Smooth it flat with your finger. A heavy application is going to block a lot of the oil return cross sectional area.

...Use the highest temperature anti-seize you can find and put it on the turbo/manifold bolts threads.

...Take your exhaust manifold and measure the flatness of the manifold/head surface. If there is more than say .020" gap using a straight edge and feeler gauge then take it to a machine shop and have them grind both surfaces flat. This eliminates alot of problems associated with pulling manifold/head studs and having pressure leaks.

...The rest is straight forward. Cheers.

[2gGSX]

Thanks a lot, especially for the call about smoothing the silicon on the gasket.

Is it really necessary to check the manifold clearance if I haven't had an exhaust leak problem yet?

[Natedaman_99]

As far as measuring it are you installing the turbo from the top of the car or are you going under it and taking off the downpipe and O2 sensor housing. I think he was refering to if you take the manifold off and install it from the top. Oh yea and make sure to get four new copper crush washers and spray down all the bolts with some PB Blaster. Its a really easy install i did it last summer good luck.

[2gGSX]

Ah I see now, I'm going from the bottom since I have to install my O2 elim downpipe and cat. As far as crush washers go, it came with a fully assembled ss oil feed line already on the turbo, so there goes that
Thanks for the vouch of confidence, I'm hoping to get all my other stuff on at the same time too.

[truwarrior]

no problem, just keep all th parts labeled and in cups...not that many really...and toque to spec

[Natedaman_99]

Ummmm the copper crush washers are for the waterlines not the oil lines. There will be two on each water banjo bolt one on each side of it. So unless that T28 you got came with the water lines attached you will need 4 new washers. Some will reuse the old ones which you can if you want but they may leak so its a good idea to get some new ones.

[spoolup]

pretty good write up bpoglio but you can also leave the oil rturn attached to the oil pan and just remove the 2 bolts holding it the turbo center section. (jkust be sure to stick a plastic bag over it when workign on the turbo so nothing drops or flys inside of it) With the BT 28 its easy. also use PB blaster to penetrate the threads and allow the bolts/ nuts to come off easy. As for antiseize, this is one area you DO NOT want to slouch. I have pulled my turbo off 3 times (once it ate the EGT probe after 1000 miles). But with the antiseze I use it comes off easy. I use the locktite N5000 high purity silver based antiseize. it is good for 2400*F, where most coper antisezes are only effective for 1600*F. The N5000 is available from industrial supply warehouses and can be bought in a 1oz tube (which is the best for most people) or a 8oz brush on can. It is really used for nuclear and steam generators but it must work on DSMs since half the local DSMers have borrowed mine.

Now for de-install instructions (assuming you already have drained the coolant and removed the little stuff (intake, heat shields ect), break loose the 14mm mani to turbo bolts/stud, but dont remove them, just break them loose. undo the DP and remove the 2 bolts from the oil return line at the turbo, gently break the seal loose (you will see what I mean) the oil line will move a bit. disconnect your existing oiil supply line a little will come out, remove the soft rubber cooling lines (2 of them) from the hard lines going to and from the turbo one will dump A BUNCH OF COOLANT be prepared. REmove the head to mani nuts, think there is 7 little and 2 large. disconnect the O2 sensor (by the Tstat and let the cord hang loose, since the coolant has already been drained, remove the radiator for more room its only 4 bolt and takes 2 minutes. And pull the mani, turbo, O2 housing all as one peice and dissasemble out of the car, do the same putting it back in. Wish I had a digital camera I would do a very detailed write up of this procedure, Just take your time and look things over it really is a easy prcedure with the BT28 since no water line mods are needed or compressor houding clocking needed since it is a drop in turbo. I love mine hope you enjoy yours.

[heavyD]

The only thing I can add is please make sure you drain the oil & coolant before removing the turbo. Some people say you don't have to but it will save you a cleanup job after.

[polarmoment]

if you don't want to drain the coolant, you can use surgical foreceps (or something similar) to clamp the coolant lines shut and they'll only spill out a few mL of coolant. *shrugs* worked perfect for me.