Newbie ForumBeginner/newbie/general DSM questions. first mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. New Members must limit their tech posts to this forum and sub-forums.
I use it, works great in my DSM (87k, road raced, original unopened tranny!)
Saved me from having to rebuild the tranny on my MR2. 3rd gear was getting real funky, switched to the Redline and it's usable again (not great, but yeah, it really does need overhauled (172k miles, unopened)).
Originally posted by pneumo Redling Shockproof was not made for transmissions. It was made for transfer cases and rear diffs.
Sure it is. Give Redline a call and they'll be more than happy to explain the pros and cons of running it in your tranny vs. the other products they offer.
Pros and cons of using shockproof in the DSM tranny? What are the cons? I've read all the stuff they say about shockproof, and it doesn't mention any benefit for shifting. In fact, it doesn't say anything about shifting gears. It just talks about bearing and gear face protection. It even says,"...metal-to-metal friction is greatly reduced." To me that sounds like the syncros would have a hard time doing their job, making it more likely that the gear would grind when shifting, which is what is happening to Clipse's tranny.
In short, if your tranny oil doesn't work for you, try something else.
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11.514 on a 14b
10.77 on a GT35
Originally posted by pneumo I've read all the stuff they say about shockproof, and it doesn't mention any benefit for shifting. In fact, it doesn't say anything about shifting gears.
In short, if your tranny oil doesn't work for you, try something else.
Apparently you haven't read the label on the bottle...
Quite right, if it's not working for you, try something else. Lots of people recommend the BG synchro shift.
It does mention on the bottle that it should be used in transmissions in high horsepower applications. However, Pneumo does make a very good point regarding the sychros.
I broke the clutch in over the weekend and was able to get some high rpm shifting in and I was fairly impressed. Shifting is still quite notchy at lower rpm cruising speeds, but once you get ripping trough gears at around 7k it's a completely different story. But because my car does see quite a bit of city driving I am considering a mix of BG synchroshift and Shockproof.
How do i check the level of and locate my tranmission fluid. I dont know where it is on my 2G GST. I'm going to put some hi performance Lucus heavy duty oil Stabalizer in it today to see if it makes any difference and need some assistance. A pic would suffice.
Buy a haynes manual, if you own a DSM, chances are your going to need it =) There should be a filling bolt on the aluminum case where you can just stick your finger in and the fluid level should as high as that hole (if you cant feel any then pour some more into that hole until it starts to leak out).
the transaxle and transfer case are two different things. there should be a check plug and drain plug if its like most cars. The highest one is the check plug. Take it out and the fluid level should be even with the hole, meaning if you stick your finger in you should get some fluid on your finger. If you dont, you need to add some. I would first check the quality of the oil to see if it needs replacing. If it does, remove the lower plug(drain plug) and drain it out. If there is no drain plug, youll need a pump which you may not have. Once its all drained, put the drain plug back in and add oil through the check plug hole until it comes out that hole. Let it level off then voila! If you wont want to do this in your driveway or dont have a lift, you can get it done at a valvoline oil change place.
Pennzoil, Quaker State or AC Delco (GM) synchromesh. Auto Zone carries the Pennzoil. If you care about your transmission, transfer case, or rear end do not put Lucas Oil Stabilizer in it. There IS a gear oil that Lucas makes, that might be alright, but the Oil Stabilizer works well in engines, but not much else. Poke around on the forums on www.bobistheoilguy.com to see for yourself.
For Lucas' gear oil (available in either 80/90 or 85/140) you would use it just as you would normal gear oil. I'm still a little leery of Lucas in anything but an engine, so I'd probably use it half and half with a traditional gear oil of the same weight.
Not sure how to link threads, so I have copied and pasted a previous post. See below.
Here is a link to the Penzoil Syncromesh oil. Key is, from what I have reviewed, is our trannys have Brass (yellow metal) syncro's. Normal gear oil, oxidizes these and wears them out sooner. So that is why, you need to use an oil specified for "yellow metal", as brass alloys are commoning called.
I bought my 91 Laser, n/t, with a rebuilt replacement 5 speed already installed by the previous owner. He had the normal characteristic, "sticky second". Well the 5 speed only had about 800 miles on it when I bought the car, and second was not a smooth shift when car was cold. I changed the fluid to the Penzoil, since I could not find Redline (Advance Auto parts said they were considering carrying Redline products, but I have not checked back). I purchased the Penziol from Autozone.
So far so good. Tranny has about 7K miles on it now, since the change, and it is very smooth, but then, it is summer too, so we will see. Anyway, here is the link!
since 30W oil is much thinner than 75W (which is recommended) yes it will shift better.. well until the syncros / bearings fail and.. well.. then it won't
Also note that motor oil is loaded with additives that are specific to a valvetrain and is designed to be replaced ar regular intervals.
My advice is to stick with what's known to work.. BG / Redline MTL / Syncromesh and/or a Shep-built tranny like mine
I used 30w motor oil in my tranny once. This was for a specific purpose, so I don't recomend anyone else try it unless you're having the same problem.
I did it to flush out some excess metal shavings in the trans. Basically I got the cheapest 30w oil, put it in the trans and drove gently for a week, then drained out sparkling metal filled oil. The trans seemed to shift about as good with 30w as it did with the fancy tranny oils, but I'm sure it doesn't have the same load bearing capacity. Now I'm back to my current favorite; 50/50 mix of NEO RHD and Redline MTL.
Honda transmissions won't work with any type of gear lube in them. Most every honda 5 speed calls for 10W30 motor oil.
I helped a friend work on his, and I told him to change his fluid and throw some syncrhomesh in there. He filled the whole tranny with synchromesh and he made me put his new tranny in a few weeks later. :o
