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HELP!!! My car won't stay on!!!

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boisdsm

Probationary Member
25
0
Aug 26, 2012
chicago, Illinois
As the title says my car starts just fine but won't stay on. It'll just go to 2k then just at the same speed as a normal start going to 750 it'll just go straight to 0. Now if I hold the gas pedal It'll stay on.

back story
I bought the car it was driving fine till the water pump blew out had a shop do the wires, plugs, coil, and timing/water pump to our surprise balance shaft eliminated(I know common mod) took the shop a week to get it done. Car ran good for three weeks. Only issue was if I took off with out letting it warm up it wouldn't go past 3k. Once the needle moved just past the c on temp gauge it was smooth sailing and the world was great til last week. One day I took off in a rush an the car sounded like a Subaru and drove completely crappy let her sit unplugged cables found one broken injector clip pushed it in tight and no prob drove home just fine. Went to work added a quart of oil and that's when hell broke loose. On the drive home It drove as it did before and began shutting off at lights. It would still stay on at times Over the weekend I replaced the broken injector clip. In my attempt to clean the MAF I took it apart while still in the tube it sits in removed the plastic cover and then a metal on saw the chip board and said screw that I'm not touching that! Closed it up and sprayed MAF cleaner on the sensor bar part while in its housing. Washed the k&n air filter. Turned the key and now it has its current symptoms and doesn't change
 
I did a quick test today and it may be my MAF I unplugged it and it stayed on it ran as a car with out a MAF would. High idle then revving up and down around 2k CEL was on. Plugged in MAF and 3 sec later dead. Any one got a MAF for a 1ga awd 5speed for sale? A plus if youre in Chicago

Does the car drove fine? Once you get it going? Only dies when trying to idle? How is your IAC?

If the iac is the silver thing just under the tps with two screws in then That thing looks brand new. Prior to recent events yup like a champ cept for running it was on 3 cylinders and sounding like a Subaru once in a great while

Do a boost leak test.

Would a boost leak cause it to shut off right after start? Also would the maf make it feel and sound like its running on 3 cylinders if its faulty?
 
The MAS is probably dead. I have never seen the MAF sensor cleaner actually improve the way a car runs. Even worse when applied liberally. Maybe it's just because nobody ever uses it until they have a problem, but I'm still skeptical.

True that was my case but would the dying MAF make my car run as if only firing on 3 cylinders randomly as it was doing prior to my attempt to clean?
 
have you rechecked your plugs and wires? Maybe a plug got fouled or a wire went bad... Had that happen on a 92 Probe I had and never got a CEL but it sounded like a sea sick mustang.
 
have you rechecked your plugs and wires? Maybe a plug got fouled or a wire went bad... Had that happen on a 92 Probe I had and never got a CEL but it sounded like a sea sick mustang.

Yup checked them they looked good and its all new

Upon further review I'm still learning this car as it has been modded prior to my ownership of it. Does any one have a 2g MAF for sale preferably in the Chicago area? (All offers considered)

Upon further review I'm still learning this car as it has been modded prior to my ownership of it. Does any one have a 2g MAF for sale preferably in the Chicago area? (All offers considered)

Upon further review I'm still learning this car as it has been modded prior to my ownership of it. Does any one have a 2g MAF for sale preferably in the Chicago area? (All offers considered) ps sorry for the repeated sentence my net wigged out
 
Ok not the MAF :/ got a new one and it didn't. Fix my issues. Car stays on with out the MAF plugged in idling at 1500 when I gas it to like 4k it sputters to get there at idle I do here a put here and there but nothing constant. First time I plugged in the MAF it shut off next time I let it warm up plugged it in and it sat around 5-700 and sounded like crap or a bad ass cammed v8

Even more perplexing is after my last post I read on a Nissan forum a person with similar issues. Turned out he had a coolant leak. So I went and pumped my top radiator hose. Turned on the car died off the bat. Turned on the car with the MAF disconnected let the car warm up in crap mode pumped the radiator hose plugged in the MAF and she ran great so well I took her for a drive around the block I did notice a little hesitation on the low end but boost kicked in and not a flaw. Got back to the garage parked her and all good sputtered off turned her on and all good. Went to Walmart bought coolant came back to bleed the air and she stays on with idle surge and a couple shut offs even when system was bruped if I did it properly. I do know my Tstat housing leaks at the gasket. But I Dunno anyone have any ideas please
 
Had the same exact issue 2 weeks ago, Did everything you did without any change.. Im almost 100% positive your fuel is Crap, How low is your fuel? In my case I had water in my tank and everytime I began getting low on gas near half a quarter of fuel left in the tank, I began having stalling issues after letting off the gas and when I filled up, ran fine. Try filling up and give it a couple of miles see what happens. I had to pump my gas out and start over.
 
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Had the same exact issue 2 weeks ago, Did everything you did without any change.. Im almost 100% positive your fuel is Crap, How low is your fuel? In my case I had water in my tank and everytime I began getting low on gas near half a quarter of fuel left in the tank, I began having stalling issues after letting off the gas and when I filled up, ran fine. Try filling up and give it a couple of miles see what happens. I had to pump my gas out and start over.

Ill definitely give that a try my car is currently in crap mode where I can't really drive it I start it and it just shuts down. Can you elaborate on the onset of your cars symptoms and resolution? I've driven my car with less gas before now thes just under quarter so its worth a try I'm just outta ideas I have a couple of vids of my last post how on min the car is runnin fine then I come back burp the radiator 20 mins later and nothing
 
At first I just got hesitation as I accelerated and as I let it go on it began dying after I pushed the clutch.. Other times it would just dip at very low rmps and then catch back up. Sometimes hard to start and rough idle. But 5 miles after putting half a tank work gas, she's fine.. Until I get low again then were back to where we started.. Get like 2 gallons of gas in and run it. If it runs better, that's good.. Add a bottle of that heet stuff to remove water. If Heet doesn't work, you're gonna have to drain your gas tank like I did
 
Did your car stay on if you held the gas pedal down and keep it near 1500 rpm? That's what mine will do. When I unplug the MAF the same thing it'll stay on then again rpms are higher between 1200-2k but the car stays on
 
Oh yeah as long as I was still on the gas it would run till the day is gone, but the second I let off my rpms will drop and stall. I was able to still drive as long as I shifted at the speed of light.. And as long as I downshifted at the speed of light and simultaneously gave it gas in neutral and used the ebrake for a red light I could prevent myself from stalling. And that was caused by bad gas. How low of gas are you? And the MAF from experience will raise the rpms when unplugged so that's the reason you're not stalling with it unplugged. Its in the lower rpms you'll really notice something wrong other than hesitation and bogging under heavy acceleration
 
Currently the car is just under the quarter of gas left. Although the day it drove fine last week I did notice hesitation at low rpms but when boost kicked in (3k) it was smooth I'm definitely getting that heet today. I do know the car sat for a couple years before I got it making it plausible to be water but then again I've driven it with less fuel than now and I didn't have an issue before.
 
Update I posted YouTube videos titled Boisdsm talon start problem and oisdsm talon start problem (part 2) also on the wide band I'm not sure if my car has it as well as what it is all the mods it has I got with the car. (It still puzzles me)
 
I was going to text you to see how your issue was panning out. Wideband would have pretty little lights that go from yellow to green to red or has digital numbers. They are usually by AEM or INNOVATIVE.
 
So far only once have I got her going and running fine I posted that earlier and in my vid but since then crapvillle got some heet from work to see if its the gas ill see if I can do that tonight and post any results
 
How long have you had the car since it sat? If heet doesn't work, don't automatically assume your gas isn't bad. But if you add a lot of gas to the tank and It still doesn't solve your problem, your problem is elsewhere. But bad gas would be my best bet.
 
I was going to text you to see how your issue was panning out. Wideband would have pretty little lights that go from yellow to green to red or has digital numbers. They are usually by AEM or INNOVATIVE.

Remember Narrowbands have those pretty little lights aswell but are worthless compared to he wideband. I know because I have a narrowband :(
 
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