The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Best way to clean oil filter housing

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

carvinbassplyr

10+ Year Contributor
211
10
Dec 15, 2010
Waterford, Michigan
I'm installing a 90 oil filter housing so I can use an air-to-oil cooler on my car. I just wanted to know what I should use to clean it off before installing it. It came off of a car with NO internal issues (like a spun bearing) so I'm not worried about metal shavings hiding in there, but it has old oil all over it and could just use a good cleaning. What is the best stuff to use?
 
Purple power and a brush.

It is 100 percent safe to use the purple power on the engine. Just don't let it dry on there, that is the only thing that i use, i haven't bought a can of brake clean for years, LOL. Here are some purple power before and after pics

Before:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


After:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.



Before:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


After:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Good luck.:)
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Thanks guys! I'll have to go track down some of the Purple Power :)

I know Oreilly's sells it, I'm sure most other auto stores do as well.

And coming from someone who rarely wears gloves, be sure to wear some gloves! LOL It's some really potent stuff, especially if you use the concentrated form.
 
Simple green works wonders. I cleaned mine up with it and looked great. If you can't locate the purple stuff just go green:D
 
Parts washer from any shop is the easiest IMHO. Any reason you want to install a cooler?

It was recommended by the shop I worked with for my motor build, plus I heard some bad stories about the factory water cooled system developing cracks and leaking into the oil (or something along those lines). I'm doing everything I can to make the car as mechanically sound/dependable as I can before she hits the streets as a 350AWHP DD.
 
It was recommended by the shop I worked with for my motor build, plus I heard some bad stories about the factory water cooled system developing cracks and leaking into the oil (or something along those lines). I'm doing everything I can to make the car as mechanically sound/dependable as I can before she hits the streets as a 350AWHP DD.

I would recommend not running any type of oil cooler as it is not needed at all.
 
50/50 mix of Purple power (or Simple green, if you prefer) and water in a metal pot large enough to fully submerge the part. Put it all on a stove and boil for half an hour or so. Pull it out and (while part is still hot) use a brush to knock off dirt that is still there. Boil it for another little bit. Rinse well.
 
Does the stock cooler even make much of a difference? I have been debating whether or not to run one on my build. The car will be a part time daily driver.

Stock cooler is more than enough, there is a lot to be said for not keeping your oil too cool. Dave Buschur recently ran a talon in the 24-hours-of-lemons with no oil cooler at all and the temps stayed cool. None of us will ever abuse a car like that.
 
Stock cooler is more than enough, there is a lot to be said for not keeping your oil too cool. Dave Buschur recently ran a talon in the 24-hours-of-lemons with no oil cooler at all and the temps stayed cool. None of us will ever abuse a car like that.

More details? I have observed the exact opposite, seeing very high temperatures with no cooler.
 
This car will see some course (auto-x) time with friends on the weekend, but is mainly meant to be a DD. I planned on running the air cooler design because you don't have to worry about the leaking issues of the water cooled setup. I didn't know it was "safe" to just delete the oil cooler altogether. Is there anything gained by doing this? Is it worth the possible risks?
 
More details? I have observed the exact opposite, seeing very high temperatures with no cooler.

I believe Dave was posting on highboost forums about it. Car got beat on for 24 hours and the oil temps stayed normal. On the dsm before my current one I also logged oil temps and never ever had an oil temp issue with no issue.

When did you have a problem with your temps?
 
I believe Dave was posting on highboost forums about it. Car got beat on for 24 hours and the oil temps stayed normal. On the dsm before my current one I also logged oil temps and never ever had an oil temp issue with no issue.

When did you have a problem with your temps?

My brother removed his stock oil cooler temporarily before installing his external cooler, and he regularly saw temps up around 300*. I would not run without some type of cooler, but to each his own.
 
I, personally, would run a cooler for 3 reasons:

1- the car comes with one from factory....don't think they would throw unneeded parts at a car.... Not cost effective.

2- getting rid of the factory cooler to prevent possible breakage and leak coolant into oil or vice versa.

3- by removing the oil cooler, you are raising oil temps, in turn raising engine temps, making the coolant system work harder. As most of us run a front mount, that's already hampering our cooling system.

Just my 2 cents....

Edit: there are threads that show having an external oil cooler can and has effectively helped reduce and maintain a cooler,, more consistent engine coolant temp. Search.
 
Parts washer def or diesel but its hell to get that stink off your hands . Scrub with a nylon brush
Then bead blast will look like new
As far as the CX racing thing no clue but I'd stick to the factory cooler more reliable I'm guessing
 
Parts washer def or diesel but its hell to get that stink off your hands . Scrub with a nylon brush
Then bead blast will look like new
As far as the CX racing thing no clue but I'd stick to the factory cooler more reliable I'm guessing

I'm gonna go with a B&M cooler core. Summit has a good price on one that's around the size I was looking for.

I, personally, would run a cooler for 3 reasons:

1- the car comes with one from factory....don't think they would throw unneeded parts at a car.... Not cost effective.

2- getting rid of the factory cooler to prevent possible breakage and leak coolant into oil or vice versa.

3- by removing the oil cooler, you are raising oil temps, in turn raising engine temps, making the coolant system work harder. As most of us run a front mount, that's already hampering our cooling system.

Just my 2 cents....

Edit: there are threads that show having an external oil cooler can and has effectively helped reduce and maintain a cooler,, more consistent engine coolant temp. Search.

These were the exact reasons (with the emphasis being on reasons 2 & 3) spelled out by the guy I'm working with on this build for running the air cooled design. If you assemble the kit yourself (vs buying the overpriced "pre-assembled" ones) it really is a small price to pay for added insurance/reliability.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top