The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

No pressure in clutch pedal?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Egst

10+ Year Contributor
34
1
May 16, 2011
Venice, Florida
Ok i replaced My clutch on a 1995 eclipse gst a couple months ago did the clutch, PP, TOB, but NOT flywheel. My dad said it didn't need to be resurfaced. Now i have absolutly no pressure in my clutch, the reservior for brake fluid goes really low really fast and i just kept adding dot 3 fluid. Im pretty sure it has something to do with the master cylinder, but wanted to hear some more opinions on what it could be specifically. Thank you
 
Check for leaks by the slave cylinder they go out all the time. I have replaced 2 in a year. Then check for leaks in the line. If you find no leaks the start looking at the master cylinder.
 
Check for leaks by the slave cylinder they go out all the time. I have replaced 2 in a year. Then check for leaks in the line. If you find no leaks the start looking at the master cylinder.

ok thanks alot, wheres the slave located?
 
check for the master cylinder leaking. just look under and up your clutch pedal and look for watery stuff on the floor
 
you definately have a leak somewhere, but before you go out there changing parts look from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder for any leaks...why would someone replace both master cylinder and slave cylinder and they both work fine when it could very well be the line?WTF
 
you definately have a leak somewhere, but before you go out there changing parts look from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder for any leaks...why would someone replace both master cylinder and slave cylinder and they both work fine when it could very well be the line?WTF

Very rarely, from my personal experience and that of friends and family, is it the line, and it's always best to replace them in pairs if they go out.

My master cylinder went out last month, didn't have the cash for both so just replaced the one. Last week my slave cylinder went out. I got in 3 shifts, just enough to get out of walking distance from home, and then had absolutely no peddle pressure at all. Slave went out, had fluid just pouring from it, emptied all of my clutch fluid in no time.

Luckily in my area there is a parts store that's open till midnight, and it happens to be the distribution hub for the rest of the stores, so its always a good chance they have on hand what i need.

My next hour and a half was spent changing my slave cylinder under the light of a parking lot light, in under 30 degree weather with just the basics of tools and enough brake fluid on hand to get it well enough to limp home.

Morale of the story? Always replace them in pairs.
 
Very rarely, from my personal experience and that of friends and family, is it the line, and it's always best to replace them in pairs if they go out.

My master cylinder went out last month, didn't have the cash for both so just replaced the one. Last week my slave cylinder went out. I got in 3 shifts, just enough to get out of walking distance from home, and then had absolutely no peddle pressure at all. Slave went out, had fluid just pouring from it, emptied all of my clutch fluid in no time.

Luckily in my area there is a parts store that's open till midnight, and it happens to be the distribution hub for the rest of the stores, so its always a good chance they have on hand what i need.

My next hour and a half was spent changing my slave cylinder under the light of a parking lot light, in under 30 degree weather with just the basics of tools and enough brake fluid on hand to get it well enough to limp home.

Morale of the story? Always replace them in pairs.

well yea, 90% of the time it won't be the line but what I'm trying to say is that i don't understand why when people have problems they go straight into changing parts without even checking to find out what exactly is the problem LOL, but i do get your point though
 
well yea, 90% of the time it won't be the line but what I'm trying to say is that i don't understand why when people have problems they go straight into changing parts without even checking to find out what exactly is the problem LOL, but i do get your point though

Quite a few people told him to check for fluid at both of the cylinders. And a hydraulic system doesn't always present a leak externally as well, they can leak internally and bleed pressure and show no outward signs of failure. Plus thats when the 90% part comes into play. It's normally one or the other.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
My clutch pressure went out a few weeks ago and it was low on fluid so i just bled out the line and refilled with brake fluid while my buddy pumped the clutch and it slowly gained pressure back. But i would def check for any leaks in the cab then work your way down from the master checking your lines all the way down to your slave. also look under the car where its leaking from that should give you a good general area from where its coming from
 
My clutch pressure went out a few weeks ago and it was low on fluid so i just bled out the line and refilled with brake fluid while my buddy pumped the clutch and it slowly gained pressure back. But i would def check for any leaks in the cab then work your way down from the master checking your lines all the way down to your slave. also look under the car where its leaking from that should give you a good general area from where its coming from

If your clutch pressure went out and your fluid was low, i would investigate why if i were you before something goes out on you at an inconvenient time.
 
last saturday my clutch pedal was soft. i checked the fluid it was empty. i added some and bled the line. petal started feeling better. so i started down the road. a few shifts later i stoped at a rred light and couldnt go to first gear.i finally got it in gear and got home. i had a friend look at it he said the clutch is bad. but i had the clutch replaced about 2 years ago. i need to figure out where the fluid went. also if the fluid level is empty would that take a clutch out? i figured i would get more than 2 years from a clutch. not sure what kind was put in at the time. i just want to make sure that is what the problem is. if its not leaking from the lines it has to be from the master or slave . any help please.
 
last saturday my clutch pedal was soft. i checked the fluid it was empty. i added some and bled the line. petal started feeling better. so i started down the road. a few shifts later i stoped at a rred light and couldnt go to first gear.i finally got it in gear and got home. i had a friend look at it he said the clutch is bad. but i had the clutch replaced about 2 years ago. i need to figure out where the fluid went. also if the fluid level is empty would that take a clutch out? i figured i would get more than 2 years from a clutch. not sure what kind was put in at the time. i just want to make sure that is what the problem is. if its not leaking from the lines it has to be from the master or slave . any help please.

well let me tell you from experience if you run low on fluid this could mess up your clutch. If you try shifting on no fluid you could damage the teeth on the clutch or possibly throw out a bearing like i did. easy thing with clutch leaks are that they are easy to find and easy to fix or replace. look and see if there are any leaks around the master if your not seeing anything on the ground or in the car. just because its not on the ground doesnt mean its not leaking. I would also check your lines for any pinhole leaks and double check your slave.

If your clutch pressure went out and your fluid was low, i would investigate why if i were you before something goes out on you at an inconvenient time.

i replaced the lines so im good now
 
ok i found the leak, it is running down hw clutch pedal. where is it coming from?

i need help please? thanks

Your master cylinder is bad.

You'll need some basic tools, brake line wrench, if you dont have this it is very likely you will strip your lines (i bought the double ended one that has 10mm and 12mm), 3/8 drive ratchet, 12MM socket, 10MM socket, 6 inch extension (wobble extension is useful here) and a 12MM wrench. (this was done and based off of my N/T, so sizes and locations my vary slightly, but should be close enough to point you in the right direction)

Seeing as you've probably never done this before, give yourself about an hour and a half to replace it. I did mine in less then half an hour, so its really not difficult, just kind of a pain because of tight spaces.

First things first, i suggest draining the fluid so you don't spill it all over your engine bay.

On the clutch pedal is a pin that is held in place with a cotter key, take that out, then follow the rod to the firewall. At the firewall you should see one stud going through, and a bolt coming in with a nut on it, take that nut off.

Save these parts, you dont get new ones with the replacement.

Go into the engine bay, follow the fluid bottle to the master cylinder, you will see a stud and a bolt just like you did inside. Dont loosen it yet. You need to use the brake line wrench and loosen and remove the line from the master cylinder. Then remove that nut.

Two more bolts that hold the fluid bottle and your ready to pull out the old master cylinder.

Now install in reverse, and refer to these to bleed and adjust your clutch system.

Jacks Transmissions LLC — Tech Articles "you want to watch proper clutch adjustment"

And two ways to bleed the system, have plenty of fluid on hand, you'll need it.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...how-properly-bleed-your-hydraulic-clutch.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-drivetrain/199640-how-bleed-your-clutch-yourself.html


Good luck, and post up if you have any issues.
 
Thanks alot for the information. Im going to change it tomorrow. Should I change the master cylinder first and bleed the the clutch before i change the clutch. It may have ruined it running with no fluid. Thanks guys for the info glad to be apart of the dsm family
 
Thanks alot for the information. Im going to change it tomorrow. Should I change the master cylinder first and bleed the the clutch before i change the clutch. It may have ruined it running with no fluid. Thanks guys for the info glad to be apart of the dsm family

I would change the cheap part and hope for the best first, its very possible that your clutch is fine :thumb:
 
thats what im going to first in the morning is change the master cylinder and hope for the best. if it doesnt work ill be putting in a new clutch.

i guess i was lucky. i changed the master cylinder and everything is good now. thanks for everyones help.
 
thats what im going to first in the morning is change the master cylinder and hope for the best. if it doesnt work ill be putting in a new clutch.

i guess i was lucky. i changed the master cylinder and everything is good now. thanks for everyones help.

Before your clutch master cylinder went out and clutch started to stick etc,.. Did the car feel like the clutch was going out? like not enough power so you had to gas more for rpm to rise? jw. Plus, how hard was the change for a first timer? what brand did you get? Thanks!
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top