The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

first problem ive had :(

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

tangar1991

Probationary Member
7
0
Oct 8, 2011
murrieta, California
i bought a 98 mitsubishi eclipse and shes been running great. she flashed the check engine light a couple times but it always went off. now finally she stalled while i was driving.
i let her sit for about ten minutes, she started up and i went home. the next day i was able to drive to the grocery store and back and it was fine. but i took her out later and the same thing happend 4 times. she'll idle forever but its kinda inconsistent, itll bounce between 6 n 9 thousand rpm.
i have a sneaking suspicion that its the fuel filter or the fuel regulator sensor. but i could really use some advice before diving into the endless purchase of part after part.
 
hahahahah sry, i just realized that i put that. 6 and 9 hundred i mean :p.

and i had been using a truck before i got the eclipse that had a vacuum leak but it was still completely drivable as long as i didnt let it idle for more than a minute or two, i drove it from temec to elsinore frequently before it got fixed.

has anybody here had a similar problem?
and is it more likely an air problem or a fuel problem?

oh!, i neglected to mention this earlier, i had the car diagnosed about a month ago and electrically it had nothing wrong. except my speed sensor and rpm sensor were off.
 
as nice as that sounds, im too scared to drive my car anywhere in case it stalls. but just out of curiousity, where is it?
 
Turbo cars are different when it comes to vacuum leaks.

Not exactly true.

Vacuum and boost leaks are only a fuel map issue when you are on a metered air system.

You can be using a Ford that has a MAF system and it will still have the same issues if there is a vacuum leak post MAF sensor just like a turbo vehicle.

Lots of vehicles are on a speed density setup now which won't affect the fuel map when there is a leak. It will still hurt the overall performance by not getting all of the pressurized air to the motor and causing the turbo to work harder but it won't cause stalling issues.

OP, you do need to perform what is known as a boost leak test. You'll pressurize the intake system to at least 20psi and spray soapy water over EVERYTHING that sees positive or negative air pressure. Bubbles indicate a leak and is something that needs fixed.

I would also test the ISC for bad coils which is mentioned in the links above.
 
does this still apply to my car if i dont have the turbo? cause i believe my model is just the gsx
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top