Rislone Transmission STOP SLIP with LEAK REPAIR

[pazsion]

I've been researching oils for about a month or 2,

since our engines, the 420a has brass parts.

we shouldn't use castor oils. an anti-friction additive or complete oil that corrodes brass.

Is there anything in this stuff that would be bad for our brass synchro's
valves, and fittings?

When i changed the oil last time i didn't have this knowledge.. So it could be why my passenger side cv barring is leaking...But i don't believe valvoline has these additives?

I bought this for use in my manual 5 spd 95 esi transmission.

 

[pazsion]

called the company, since not much was available online or here.. basically its only to be added to the tranny fluid, not the oil..

they basically think it can be run in anything with absolutely no issues gauranteed. and said yes it's ok for yellow metals..

So i added it today, mixing dot3 and red fluids.. didnt seem to produce a chemical reaction or smell like one was takeing place.. as is rumored to happen with adding auto trans fluid which is also red.. to dot3/4 fluids..

*crosses fingers and prays*

it does seem to grab a bit better, shift smoother..and reduced my 60mph rpms by 200. cool.

 

[KazooGS-T]

For a 5 speed in a 2GNT you MUST run the NVT-350 fluid from the dealer, otherwise you will trash your tranny easily.

 

[91-talon-tsi]

I'm not a big fan of "magic in a bottle" stuff. Mixing fluids doesn't seem adviseable either. Most of those miracle fix it cans contain alcohol that swells rubber seals and gaskets. It only temporarily solves the problem, but in the long run it eats your seals and causes major leaks, which is what you were trying to fix in the first place.

If your transmission is leaking where the axle connects to the transmission, it's your driveaxle oil seals. Leaks can also be caused by overfilling the transmission, a loose or broken input gear shaft bearing retainer, input bearing retainer o ring and or damaged lip seal.

I recommend changing your driveaxles seals. They're cheap and easy to replace. Just replace them and fix it the right way. Your car was designed and manufactured by highly trained and highly skilled individuals who know what types of fluids work best in their products.

The recommended transmission oil for the F5MC1 manual transmissions in 95-99eclipses is mopar or mitsubishi manual transmission oil. Not sure on the part numbers, but if you look on the side of your transmission, there should be a yellow sticker that tells you what oils are acceptable. You can also check your owners manual if you have one.

You can also use oils that meet or exceed manufacturer specifications. I've been using penzoil syncromesh manual transmission oil with satisfactory results. It's safe for transmission containing yellow metals and suitable for chrysler transaxles and transmissions. I used penzoils syncromesh in a 94 honda civic that grinded third gear. After changing the oil to syncromesh, the grind went away completely. However, don't expect any oil to "fix" your transmission if you have any mechanical problems or failures or have any broken parts inside the transmission.

If your manual transmission is slipping, it's most likely a worn clutch. It can also be that your clutch is oil soaked if your rear main engine seal is leaking, a warped pressure plate or flywheel, a weak diaphragm spring or an overheated and glazed clutch.

If your clutch is new, it may not be seated properly. It sometimes takes 30 to 40 normal starts for a new clutch to seat properly.

Fix it right the first time and avoid costly mistakes. It will save you time, money and effort in the end and your car will thank you

Here's a link to penzoils website : Pennzoil - Not just oil, Pennzoil®

I've also heard of people using bg syncromesh with good results.

 

[pazsion]

hey thx XD

$20 per quart.. no thank you!

amsoil used to have some red stuff.. this is what i drained out of the tranny, what is listed now is grey syncromesh. I'll try some of that later. Their prices seem to have gone down quite a bit too.

The main reasons i decided not to use these oils is because they felt like water. certainly way too thin to be used in gears.

I am aware that useing anything else could trash my tranny, that is why i ask here before i do stuff, and why i did some research as to why those peoples trannies failed. and castor oils and metal additives seems to be a common link.

the fluid leaking seems to smell like the dot-3 and not the oil i added.. uh oh =c

nuts, i dont see a vfaq...time to search around =/

A mild search pulled this http://www.ertyu.org/steven_nikkel/neonfsm/2000/epl_3.pdf

i had to type in the section needed (3), as the google result was slightly off. And as always, these manuals seem to leave out the crucial and helpful hints and details.

9402-40 seems to picture the item in question, But you guys said this was easy.. what steps did you skip and why/how?

Is this one of those seals i can remove without popping the barring's assembly out of the tranny?

 

[4g63tc]

Pg 3-5, fig 11, item 4 is the oil seal 91-talon is referring to.

Remove the axle assembly, just like a normal swap out, and there it is. Should take about 30 mins to accomplish.

 

[DSM1G90]

ATF+4 is for Chrysler trannies as well.

The syncros are different than other trannies being that they are felt lined in the cone area. You need a Friction Modifier fluid to work with these felt lined syncros. Other kinds will do more harm with these syncros.

 

[91-talon-tsi]

For 1995-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse NON turbo 5 speed standard trans use :

Mopar oil : 4474765 or

Mitsubishi oil : A995ZC1X01



Easiest way to get to the axle seals is to do one side at a time.

(1) Remove the cotter pin from the large axle nut.

(2) Break the large axle nut loose with a 1/2" breaker bar and an impact socket (I forget what size it is) You may have to use a cheater bar to get more leverage on the breaker bar. Just don't break your tools. Use an impact wrench if possible.

(3)Disconnect the upper control arm from the hub/knuckle assembly.

(4) Remove the brake caliper from the hub/knuckle assembly.

(5) Hang caliper from the upper control arm with a piece of wire or rope to keep it out of the way and keep the brake hose from stretching.

(6) Place a brass punch or a piece of wood on the end of the axle shaft and knock it out of the splined hub with a hammer. Don't beat on the axle directly with a hammer, it may damage the axle.

You'll have to pull down on the knuckle/hub assembly and kind of pull it out towards you to get enough clearance to pull the axle out of the hub.

(7) Use a large pry bar to pry the axle out of the transmission. Pry right between the end of the shaft and the transmission. Be careful and don't damage your cv boots !

(8) Pry the axle seal out of the transmission with a flat head screwdriver.

(9) Use a suitable socket to fit on the new axle seal (use a socket as large as the outside diameter of the seal) and tap it in with a hammer. Make sure that you drive it in squarely and make sure that it's completely seated. Coat the seal lip with a light coat of transmission oil.

Installation of everything else is reverse of removal. Make sure to torque everything back to specs upon reassembly.

It's always a good idea to replace the snap rings on the driveaxles anytime you remove them. Make sure the axle clicks and locks into place when you put it back into the transmission.

I used to think that "thicker" oil was better. I put 20w 50 in the 1.6 liter d16z6 in my 94 honda civic. It was a perfectly good engine with no leaks and didn't burn any oil. After a couple thousand miles it spun a bearing. Honda recommends using 5w 30.

When you first start a cold engine, it's the most crucial time for all the moving parts. A thick oil doesn't flow good enough to get to where it needs to be upon start up. Using a thick oil will cause premature wear on your bearings and other parts.

The bearing clearances are so tight in these newer cars that you have to use thin oil so it can get into those tight places and protect and lubricate the moving parts.

The "W" in 20W-50 represents "Winter", or how low of a temperature it can still flow at and the second number "50" represents what single weight oil it behaves like when hot.

If you want thicker oil, you're better off using 5w 40 so that your engine is protected on start up and once the oil warms up, it will behave like a 40 weight oil.

That was with an engine, but it may be the same for transmissions. Use what the manufacturer says to use if you want the best performance and longevity out of your vehicle.

 

[pazsion]

=/awesome thx..