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so heres the pictures!

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dsm2race

10+ Year Contributor
77
0
Sep 17, 2010
stockton, California
well im down to getting the motor all taken apart but paused to take pictures of the crank and rod the one that spun on me.now my question is it doesnt look bad what should i do? should i just take it to the machine shop or is there need to get a virgin crank and other rods?

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Alot of guys that dont like turning cranks are 9 times out 10 talking about the mains. If they machine shop can clean that crank up by only taking .010 off the surface I would have no issue at all with it. I have ran motors with more than that takin from the mains.
 
but the mains are good i would ony need the rod part done or do they need to turn the hole crank?
 
You can have just that one turned, But it isn't a good idea. If you have one turned do them all.

And, if you only had one turned then you have to buy two sets of bearings instead of one.
 
Looks dont mean much man. If you can run your fingernail across it and feel the gouges its toast. The rod journal looks bad enough for me to not use. Its now a 30lb door stop (at least thats what mine is) ;) You might get lucky and check out the junk yards and if theirs a 4g63 car in there you might make out with a crank for cheap! You might want to look into another rod too, the cap doesnt seem too bad but the piston side deff shows some marks.
 
You can have just that one turned, But it isn't a good idea. If you have one turned do them all.

And, if you only had one turned then you have to buy two sets of bearings instead of one.



+1 to that!..


Rebuilding my bottom end right now because of CRANKWALK.

I had to special order two different bearing sizes, which are non-refundable so, now when a second crank gets to me hopefully sooner than later.. Its still a guessing game whether it will be useful..

First one I got was overbored to .031 or something cant remember it has been a nightmare.


Im about ready to buy a virgin crank. Done taking my chances with overbored and rebuilt ones...
 
if i just get a virgin crank and another rod would i still have to take them to the machine shop to get any work done to them?
 
Do yourself a HUGE favor. Instead of guessing, take your crank, rods, pistons and block to the machine shop, pay the 100 bucks and have them check all the clearances. If I would have done so, I wouldn't be removing the head and oil pan on a freshly rebuilt motor to swap a set of rods/pistons. It's worth it. Because, my lack of doing so, i'm now installing new rods when its about to snow...outside. Instead of in my comfy kitchen.:(:mad:
 
Most likely the machine shop has an account with perfit and they can get you a single new/reconditioned rod for fairly cheap. You also can get just the rod journals cut(about $60). You can go .010 on the rods and if the mains need to be micro polished(about $55 for the whole crank) the machinist will tell you when he is cutting the rods. You can order a set of .010 rod bearings($30) and standard main bearings($50). I would suggest buying a new set of piston rings. They can be had from hastings for about $80. While you have your block tore all the way down you might as well give the machinist your block to hot tank it($40). When you spin a rod bearing it usually takes metal everywhere and it would be terrible if you assemble a clean engine and it spins another rod bearing because the motor was dirty. Last but not least get the block at least rehoned($40). It will insure a good seat from the new piston rings that you might be buying
 
if i just get a virgin crank and another rod would i still have to take them to the machine shop to get any work done to them?

No. In stead of going through all that trouble to have the crank turned then trying to match up bearings and hope your clearances are within spec, it would be soo much easier to just buy a new crank and 1 new rod.
 
i would just buy a new shortblock.. much more reliable than trying to rebuild yourself.. i was in the same situation and just got tired of dealing with machine shops.. so i just bought a longblock and parted out the head and old block.. it was not as exspensive as i thought it would be
 
i would just buy a new shortblock.. much more reliable than trying to rebuild yourself.. i was in the same situation and just got tired of dealing with machine shops.. so i just bought a longblock and parted out the head and old block.. it was not as exspensive as i thought it would be

i would think its more reliable if you just rebuild it right! but then agian i never bought a new longblock where do you recomend i get one?
 
A good machine shop can fix it up with no issues. Take the whole shortblock in and have them check it out. I do 8-10 motor builds a year but if you have never done one I would let the machine shop do it for you.
 
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