1G Coolant leak by waterpump

[Punxnotdead_00]

iv got a coolant leak in my 1g 4g63, its running down the block on the drivers side behind the alternator but i cant see exactly where, im thinking water pump but i thought id post it just to get a second opinion

 

[rommel rojasgsx]

when was the last time you changed it? chances are is your pump going bad.they leak when they go bad.so u gona have to take ## timing belt cover off so you have a better view of pump. also shake the pump shaft.alot of play when they break

 

[91Bomb]

Could try tightening some of the bolts in that area because one time pep-boys changed my alt and then waterpump was leaking because of them leaving a bolt loose.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

There is an o-ring where the water pipe connects to the water pump. If it is leaking there it is a cheap, easy fix. If it's the actual water pump then its not so easy. To get to the water pump you have to pull the whole timing belt. When was the last time your car had a timing belt job?

 

[91Bomb]

Whatever you do get that fixed asap because driving around with coolant leaking out is

 

[Punxnotdead_00]

i just bought the car i have no clue when the last anything was haha im gonna go buy all new belts on payday so ill be rippin her apart, im getting pretty sick of filling milk jugs with water and bringing them with just to get to work and back.

thanks for the help boys ill be doin the tear down friday so ill let ya know how she goes

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

i just bought the car i have no clue when the last anything was haha im gonna go buy all new belts on payday so ill be rippin her apart, im getting pretty sick of filling milk jugs with water and bringing them with just to get to work and back.

thanks for the help boys ill be doin the tear down friday so ill let ya know how she goes

It's a lot more in depth then just changing the belts. How many miles are on the engine? If you plan on keeping the car I would do a thorough timing job, which means new timing belt, new hydraulic tensioner, new idler pulley, new tensioner pulley, new balance shaft pulley, new balance shaft belt, and new water pump. All brand new OEM. I would get with JNZtuning, they have great prcies on OEM parts and great customer service. Call and talk to Paul.

Hope this helps!

 

[Kev_tsi]

It's a lot more in depth then just changing the belts. How many miles are on the engine? If you plan on keeping the car I would do a thorough timing job, which means new timing belt, new hydraulic tensioner, no idler pulley, tensioner pulley, balance shaft pulley, balance shaft belt, and water pump. All brand new OEM. I would get with JNZtuning, they have great prcies on OEM parts and great customer service. Call and talk to Paul.

Good advice

 

[Dr Funkenstein]

I have neither the skill or resources to replace the timing belt and water pump myself. If I took it to a shop to be replaced, would I be able to tell them to do things like "no idler pulley" or would I just have to suffer with a direct replacement?

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

I have neither the skill or resources to replace the timing belt and water pump myself. If I took it to a shop to be replaced, would I be able to tell them to do things like "no idler pulley" or would I just have to suffer with a direct replacement?

That was a typo, "new idler pulley".

A shop can do it but it is a very expensive procedure because of the amount of labor. If you are going to go that route, make sure you find a shop that is familiar with the 4G63 engine.

 

[zero_wheeler]

yeah mine was overheating, so i replaced my waterpump, turned into a weekend project rather than just a couple hours. if your unsure about the timing belt, the old ones coming off so you might as well replace it. but the o ring is a pretty cheap fix.. but the pump it self really isnt that bad either, costed me like.. $50 bucks for the oring and pump. biggest pain was relizing we frogot some of the previous gasket on, and having to tear it all back apart again

 

[91Bomb]

Definately replace waterpump with every t-belt change and not sure what else should be done at same time so maybe others could chime in on that.

 

[mazda-man]

It could be leaking from the weep hole in the water pump. Which is letting you know the seals have gone bad and coolant is getting into the bearings which will cause them to fail which then causes the pump to lock up in most cases. If thats the case then replace the pump. If your in there replacing the pump and timing belt then I would highly recommend replacing the hydro tensioner which alot of people don't because it is over 100 dollars to replaced but if it leaks it will let the tension off the belt and you risk bending valves if the belt jumps timing. I also would recommend replacing both the idlers as they are cheap and you know you should have no problems for 60000 miles or more if done correctly. I've always eliminated the balance shaft belt but then that requires a kit with a front cover seal but you get rid of that pesky belt.

 

[anthonydinatale]

Change the seals

 

[cAPSlOCK98]

There is an o-ring where the water pipe connects to the water pump. If it is leaking there it is a cheap, easy fix. If it's the actual water pump then its not so easy. To get to the water pump you have to pull the whole timing belt. When was the last time your car had a timing belt job?

If the O-ring is leaking, what is the "cheap, easy fix"?

 

[luv2rallye]

If the O-ring is leaking, what is the "cheap, easy fix"?

Drain cooling system. Remove the crossover water pump inlet pipe (thus you don't have to remove the water pump). Replace the o-ring with a new one in the crossover inlet pipe by putting it on the pipe end first, coating with coolant, and then insert pipe with o-ring into water pump – do not put the o-ring into water pump first as it will not seat properly and will leak.
Also do not use RTV on the water pipe. The o-ring does the job of sealing the water pipe to the pump housing and doesn't need anything else. The RTV will reduce it's ability to seal and flex and can actually create ways for the coolant to leak. Make sure that the water pipe is free of any corrosion where the o-ring sits and that the o-ring is lubed with coolant before putting the pump on so it isn't cut or torn. Take a scotch brite pad (the green kitchen scrubbers) and polish the water pipe end if necessary. Use a new o-ring. Make sure you don't scratch the inside of the water pump.

 

[rommel rojasgsx]

if your doing a T belt might as well change front seals. (crank oil pump and bs) . labor cost shouldnt be that much or anything. just price of seals wich are pretty cheap. most expensive one is like 24 bucks.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

If the O-ring is leaking, what is the "cheap, easy fix"?

Change the o-ing. luv2rallye did a great job of explaining in depth exactly how to change the o-ring. It is a cheap, easy fix.

Drain cooling system. Remove the crossover water pump inlet pipe (thus you don't have to remove the water pump). Replace the o-ring with a new one in the crossover inlet pipe by putting it on the pipe end first, coating with coolant, and then insert pipe with o-ring into water pump – do not put the o-ring into water pump first as it will not seat properly and will leak.
Also do not use RTV on the water pipe. The o-ring does the job of sealing the water pipe to the pump housing and doesn't need anything else. The RTV will reduce it's ability to seal and flex and can actually create ways for the coolant to leak. Make sure that the water pipe is free of any corrosion where the o-ring sits and that the o-ring is lubed with coolant before putting the pump on so it isn't cut or torn. Take a scotch brite pad (the green kitchen scrubbers) and polish the water pipe end if necessary. Use a new o-ring. Make sure you don't scratch the inside of the water pump.

 

[BLueBeast]

I would first determine for SURE! where its leaking from. I like using the UV Dye & black light from local auto parts store (i.e. autozone, O'Reilly, Checkers, Pep Boys, etc), just call around & see who has one, it's becoming the standard to carry them now.

You just dump in the dye, run your car & go in the dark garage & use the black light & determine where it's REALLY! leaking from, might take a bit, but sure does take the guess work out & helps you find those pesky leaks. I've used it numerous times, just DO NOT buy the one with the "sealant/stop leak also in the dye" that stuff is crap & you want to REALLY find & fix the leak, not just put a band-aid on it.

Good luck, hope that helps.

 

[1991BlackTalon]

Wipe everything down around where it was leaking and pressure test the system, when you get pressure in the system, it should leak out. Do this with the car not running obviously. Just remove the radiator cap, pump the tester and there you go! But first you need a tester. Good luck.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Chances it could be waterpump leak, fairly simple job, the pump is easy, check vfaq.com for timing belt replacement.

 

[SjJones]

i had the same issue, this thread helped out alot thanks