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Throttle and Cruise Control Cable Setup

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Detail

Supporting VIP
413
35
May 28, 2003
Marietta, Georgia
Car is 95 2g Talon TSI AWD

During this winter I had I replace my heater core. While I was inside the car removing the entire dash and what not my "friend" decided he had a GREAT idea to completely remove and disassemble the throttle cable housing on the firewall. This is the one that has 1 cable going in from the dash and two going out. One to the throttle body and the other to the cruise control. All of this mahem so he could get an extra 2 cm to get at the heater hose. FAIL!

Anyways, fast forward a few frustrating months. I cannot seem to get this thing back right. The throttle seems to stick once its warmed up. It starts at 1k and then 1.5, 2, 3, and so on. And of course this makes the car start to overheat which is just LOVELY. I just read a few minutes ago that this could be because of a vac leak, a mis-adjusted cable(s), or insert your best guess.

I'm working on the vac leak check and know how to do this. But can anyone post the manual instructions for setting the cables? BTW, my cruise has stopped working as well. Light comes on, it will "set" for a second and then turn off. Checked the stop on the clutch and break and both buttons are engaging.
 
I got you... :thumb:

I think that you have this messy set-up poorly adjusted. I hope this help you.. There's a mess of pages for this system. The ECU will also pick up and store codes for the cruise control, if you wanna try a short cut. Give me feedback because posting manual pages takes time and I don't want to waste ours.

***PRINT AND FOLLOW***

ON-VEHICLE SERVICE - AUTO-CRUISE CONTROL CABLE CHECK AND ADJUSTMENT

1. Remove the link protector. (Refer to P.17-40.)

2. Check the slack in each of the inner cables in the accelerator cable, auto-cruise control cable and throttle cable. If the slack in an inner cable is excessive, or if there is no play, loosen the adjusting bolts and the nuts in
the throttle lever and each link, to release the throttle lever and each link. (The bolts and nuts should not be removed.)

ACCELERATOR CABLE
1. Adjust with the adjusting nut A so when the linkA hits the stopper, the accelerator cable play (inner cable play reaches the standard value.

Standard value:
<M/T> O-l mm (O-.04 in.)
<A/T> 2-3 mm (.08-1.2, in.)

2. Fix the accelerator cable with the lock nut.

THROTTLE CABLE
1. Adjust with the adjusting nut B so when the lever B hits the link A, the throttle cable play (inner cable play) reaches the standard value.
Standard value: l-2 mm (.04-.08 in.)

2. Fix the throttle cable with the lock nut.

3. Tighten the throttle lever-side adjusting bolt to the specified torque.

AUTO-CRUISE CONTROL CABLE <2.0L Engine (Turbo) and 2.4L Engine>
1. Adjust with the adjusting nut C so when the lever C stopper hits the link B, the auto-cruise control cable play (inner cable play) reaches the standard value.
Standard value: l-2 mm (.04-.08 in.)

2. Fix the auto-cruise control cable with the lock nut.
 

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EuroDriver FTW. That is exactly what I was looking for. I'll be giving this a shot here in just a bit. (Rep delivered.)

Def have to keep cruise control. It's there, why remove it? To useful to lose. Any other things to check on the cruise? Like I said, light on dash on. Switch works. Brake and clutch "stops" working when you have no feet on the pedals. Light on cluster comes on "cruise" but then goes out. Haven't checked the vac line outside on the cruise as of yet.
 
Great stuff. I was able to fix the idle and the cruise control even works again. Can't tell you how nice that is. Any chance anyone knows how to make the cruise control response for "resume" to quicken? IE, if I push up on the stick the car barely accelerates if at all.
 
Great stuff. I was able to fix the idle and the cruise control even works again. Can't tell you how nice that is. Any chance anyone knows how to make the cruise control response for "resume" to quicken? IE, if I push up on the stick the car barely accelerates if at all.

this may cause other faults in the system if you make it faster i don't really know but im pretty sure it has a fixed orifice for the vacuum actuator that only allows it to open the throttle plate at a certain rate.
 
Since you been hinting at this for a bit... Here you go! This will complete the diagnosis of your cruise control. Good luck! :thumb:

**PRINT AND FOLLOW**

AUTO-CRUISE VACUUM PUMP <2.0L Engjne (Turbo) and 2.4L Engine>

1. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the electric vacuum pump and connect a vacuum gauga'to the vacuum pump.

2. Disconnect the electric vacuum pump connector.

3. Connect terminal (1) to the battery (+) terminal, and connect terminals (2) and (3) to the battery (-) terminal.

4. Check to be sure that the vacuum gauge shows a reading of 53 kPa (15.7 in.Hg) or more when .terminal (4) is connected to the battery (-) terminal. "

5. In this condition, check to be sure that the vacuum gauge shows a 20 kPa (6 in.Hg) or less when terminals (2) and (3) are disconnected from the battery.

ACTUATOR <2.0L Engine (Turbo) and 2.4L Engine>

1. Remove the actuator.

2. Apply negative pressure to the actuator with the vacuum pump and check that the holder moves more than 35 mm (1.38 in.). In addition, check that there is no change in the position of the holder when negative pressure is maintained in that condition.

3. First install the actuator and then inspect and adjust the auto-cruise control cable (Refer to PREVIOUS POST)
 

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Last edited by a moderator:
Man, this service manual makes handle this car mechanics a piece of cake. My throttle pedal is very loosen and I was already taking a closer look to this black box on the firewall. But from looking to get the tools and start openning things up without any technical support, is a big step if you are an "ordinary person". Where can I get or download it entirely? I'm planning to keep my DSM forever, so this is one thing I'm going to need once in a while, soon or later.
 
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