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2G Oil pan gasket?

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brad995

Probationary Member
11
1
Nov 28, 2009
Salem, Massachusetts
Well my oil pan is leaking oil and I am going to replace the gasket. I have searched and read that our cars do not have oil pan gaskets stock. Is this true? If they do not use a gasket how does the pan seal correctly?

I have seen on some websites that you can buy an oil pan gasket but is it needed? Should I buy one as my pan isn't sealing correctly?

The pan is leaking fairly bad and it's getting on my belt to make it squeal so I want to fix this asap.

So gasket or no gasket and if none how should I make it seal correctly?
 
stock our cars had no gasket just sealer i used a gasket when i did my rebuild and no issues yet. i guess its just preferance if you run one or not
 
I would like to use a gasket then as that's easier than using rtv sealer.

Would this one be fine? I have a 95 tsi fwd
Felpro Oil Pan Gasket

I'm also going to be buying stainless steel bolts as mine look pretty rusted.
 
I used rtv on mine and it is holding up just fine. It is not hard at all to use it. Just make sure if you use it, that you stay on the outer edge of the block when applying it. Keep it somewhat thick. Hope this helps out man.
 
I've tried a few methods over the years including paper gasket only, paper gasket and rtv combo, and rtv alone.

One of the reasons why most people's oil pans continue to leak regardless of which route they go is often a result of a few different issues:

1) Make sure the oil pan's perimeter flange isn't warped. This often happens as these old ass pans have been pried off and bent to hell, make sure they are straight.

2) clean both the block surface and oil pan surface and ensure that they are completely dry.

3) make sure there isn't any old rtv in the oil pan's "divots" in the pan mating surface, those little grooves in it.

The best method I have found is to either use Permatex's "Right Stuff" sealant (comes in cheese wiz style can) or the OEM Mitsubishi grey sealant, which is a little on the pricey side. No paper gasket, no BS, just the RTV, not one leak.
 
I will tell you from experience with my newest DSM DO NOT use the paper gasket by itself or paper gasket with RTV. If you insist on doing so, DO NOT torque it down more than you're supposed to. The idiot that I bought the car from used the paper gasket with RTV and torqued the #### out of it and warped the flange all to hell.

Oil pan leaked and got all over the timing belt...started to crack the belt. Had to get a whole new pan.

I would use "The Good Stuff" by Permatex for the oil pan.
 
Sorry but i gotta revive this thread real quick...

So are you guys saying using a gasket is less reliable than using RTV? I need to swap my oil pan on my GSX and I cant decide on which way is safer. I need some DSM pro realtalk.
Thanks.

Edit: and when i say gasket, i mean like rubber fel-pro gasket type. I understand paper gaskets are no-no's.
 
Sorry but i gotta revive this thread real quick...

So are you guys saying using a gasket is less reliable than using RTV? I need to swap my oil pan on my GSX and I cant decide on which way is safer. I need some DSM pro realtalk.
Thanks.

Edit: and when i say gasket, i mean like rubber fel-pro gasket type. I understand paper gaskets are no-no's.

Do not use any gasket on the oil pan, it was designed to use a bead of RTV.

If you clean both surfaces well and do it correctly than it will seal up perfectly every time. The surfaces have to be very clean though. Scrape old RTV off making sure to get it all out of the groove that is on the pan mating surface. From there you will want to wipe both surfaces down with acetone, paint thinner, brake cleaner or some type of fast drying solvent. There must be no oil or oil residue on the surfaces.

Now you can take and lay a 1/8" bead all the way around in the groove, install the pan and tighten the bolts. Some people let it sit and skin over, but i do not and the service manual says not to.

You want to install it wet so that the RTV contours to both surfaces perfectly and all the excess will squish out.

I prefer the Permatex UltraGrey. Also you need to make sure to let it sit for 24 hours before putting oil in it.
 
I used red rtv sealer and have not had any leaks since. You want to make sure to use an even 1/4 inch bead on the center of the mating surfaces inside the screw holes, or even put a ring around each screw hole. Also be careful not to use to much since if a glob squeeZes inside and breaks free it can clog an oil passage way and cause oil starvation and engine failure. The odds of this are low but a possibilty. Also do not put oil in the engine or drive until the rtv has cured 48 hours to be safe.
 
I have used a pan gasket on 3 different 2Gs (made of cork, I think). I just use some grey RTV, spread it thin on both sides of the gasket, and tighten to spec. Just make sure both surfaces are CLEAN.

Works great every time, did not leak a drop :thumb:
 
I use the paper type gaskets. No leaks in 3 years on any of my dsm's

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
 
That's cool that some of you guys use gaskets, BUT the oil pan was designed by the engineers that built the engine to have no gasket. That is why there is a groove in the pan and not a ridge. Personally i would stay away from the red and orange rtv's also for the oil pan. They don't really harden as firm as the grey.
 
That's cool that some of you guys use gaskets, BUT the oil pan was designed by the engineers that built the engine to have no gasket. That is why there is a groove in the pan and not a ridge. Personally i would stay away from the red and orange rtv's also for the oil pan. They don't really harden as firm as the grey.

how about the black? I took my dsm to a shop to replace my oil pan, because my previous one on my 6 bolt build was leaking probably due to warpage.. Anyway i have the black RTV on right now, still leaks, pisses me off.

I'll look for the good stuff or grey RTV next time i do it. Damn really a shame i have to do this a 3rd time now
 
Just use the gray RTV sealant in moderation.

The previous owner or the one before him decided to use a crap load of it, when your only suppose to use a little of it. Not joking i had ###### about a inch of it. No wondering it was leaking. Also they must have lost a couple bolts to the oil pan and decided to use screws. SMH, SMH......

I went with a fel-pro gasket and used a little RTV on my car.
 
i took my dsm to a shop to replace my oil pan, because my previous one on my 6 bolt build was leaking probably due to warpage.

90 percent of the time it will leak because you didn't clean it well enough, or you waited too long in install the pan after putting the rtv on.

You want to torque the pan right after installing it. Don't give the rtv time to skin over or else it won't bond to the block.
 
90 percent of the time it will leak because you didn't clean it good enough, or you waited too long in install the pan after putting the rtv on. You want to torque the pan right after installing it. Don't give the rtv time to skin over or else it won't bond to the block.

Ill do that, gotta weld a -12AN fitting to the pan so it gets to come off a 3rd time!

The good stuff is what ill be using or the Mitsubishi stuff. I wasnt the one to do the pan last, Brian LOL but I'll take your advice this time.

I'm getting a miller diversion 180 tig pretty soon, is the oil pan hard to weld? What amperage and filler is recomended?
 
Either way will work if done properly. If using RTV both mating surfaces need to be perfectly clean. Use brake clean and some paper towel to clean the surfaces, rag should be clean before applying RTV. If you use a gasket you absolutely can not over tighten the oil pan bolts or it WILL leak. Use a 1/4 ratchet
 
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