Dsmlink log, take a look?

[b-morr]

Can anyone with knowledge take a look at this for me?
I tuned it after this log for the mas calibration but my throttle cable was loose in the runs after that, I found out after the bolt holding the cable to the intake mani popped off.

I have a small 16g, FIC 950's, rewired wally 190 pump, supra sidemount, ported head and exhaust mani, running 20psi.

Just want to see if this needs some tuning. I have a lot being logged, just wish i has throttle position being logged so I could see if the cable was loose in this run.

Thanks,
Brian

*Edit - don't mind the date on that log, my laptop is behind in the times.

[OneLove]

Do a pull till redline. You deffinently need to calibrate your airflow sliders. Boost est is only at 11psi at 5500rpms which should be where boost est is accurate. It should be close to 20 depending on intake temps.


Here ya go... http://jeffgst.com/gmafcalibration1.html

And why do you have your 1200 hz airflow slider so high? You should atleast blend the rest of the sliders in.

Also please set your a/f ratio props asap. Do you have a wideband?

On a good note you aree seeing 18 degrees of timing with no knock.

[b-morr]

I didn't think I did this run with the airflow changed..After I changed that I did a run and it was showing boostest at 20psi. How would I blend them? I think my rpm tach is off, I went to red line on it but dsmlink shows less, so If I can figure out how to do my airflow better I'll take it out for another run tomorrow.

And no wideband..

[b-morr]

Yeah that run was done before the airflow change. So pretty much for the airflow, I use the equation from jeff's site at each slider at what 400hz and up?

[snowborder714]

Yes, use the calculation on jeffgst's page, as well as making sure you do your idle, rev, and cruise tuning. Those three will calibrate the 50Hz, 150Hz, and 250Hz airflow sliders and then the calculation will do the 400 - 2000Hz sliders.

[b-morr]

Originally Posted by snowborder714

Yes, use the calculation on jeffgst's page, as well as making sure you do your idle, rev, and cruise tuning. Those three will calibrate the 50Hz, 150Hz, and 250Hz airflow sliders and then the calculation will do the 400 - 2000Hz sliders.

I did the 50hz and 150z, but I didn't think you have to do the 250hz on 2gs because I didn't think you could log the LTFT Hi on a 2g.

*Edit - Ok I just read over the page and it said 150-400hz log mid, so do I just adjust 250 the same as 150, or do I do it the 1g way and cruise on the road and log mid? Just want to get this right, sorry for all the questions. I'm waiting on access to dsmlink forums, I bought a used eprom with dsmlink.

[snowborder714]

Originally Posted by b-morr

I did the 50hz and 150z, but I didn't think you have to do the 250hz on 2gs because I didn't think you could log the LTFT Hi on a 2g.

*Edit - Ok I just read over the page and it said 150-400hz log mid, so do I just adjust 250 the same as 150, or do I do it the 1g way and cruise on the road and log mid? Just want to get this right, sorry for all the questions. I'm waiting on access to dsmlink forums, I bought a used eprom with dsmlink.

For tuning the 150Hz, you just sit and rev the engine. For the 250Hz, you cruise on a highway and log LTFT Mid and STFT. Just use the same equation as you did for the 150Hz adjustment.
http://www.jeffgst.com/gmafcalibration2.html

[b-morr]

Awesome, thanks a lot. I'm going to calibrate my airflow and take a log and post it up later tonight. Thanks for the help.

[snowborder714]

No problem. I'll be here.

[OneLove]

[b-morr]

Ok well here you go. The first one was before I change the 400hz and up sliders. I get scared taking it to 7k because my tach shows 7800RPMS. The second one is after I moved the sliders according to jeff's page.

As you will notice, my throttle position went down.. I logged it while the car was off and it went up to %100. My throttle cable did fly off my intake mani the other night. So I checked the bolts and one was a little loose, but I don't know why the throttle position changed because its showing %100 now?

[OneLove]

You need to blend in the 2400hz slider and the 800hz slider.

Remember boost est is only truelly accurate at 5500 rpms.
I would bring your sliders all down about 2% because remember every +10 degrees in intake temps above 70 degrees boost est will drop about 1.0 psi. Your temp is at 90.

Also Brian, go to display, then values, then click on a/f ratio and then click on props and adjust it to the proper injector and deadtime. Do this also with hp, and whatever else you can.

As you can see in the first log you are seeing 18 degrees of timing at redline, this is because you are only seeing 25lbs/min of airflow which effects the timing curve of your dsm. When you are seeing 38 lbs/min of airflow in the last log the ecu is giving you a more conservative timing curve because you are flowing more air. This is changed because your changes in the airflow sliders.

Pat

[JeffGST]

What boost level was that last 2 logs at? 20 PSI?

What gear were these logs? Speed Sensor is unhooked?

Remember that BoostEst is only accurate from the 5000-6000 range. This is the only area where BoostEst should equal actual boost. BoostEst SHOULD drop rapidly after 6000. You do not need to calibrate the 400-800Hz sliders in your case. I would concentrate on the 1200-2400Hz sliders since those are the frequencies that you will be at during full throttle.

[b-morr]

My speed sensor is broke, I have a new one coming. Its at 20 psi 2rd gear pull. So, put the 400hz - 800hz back to normal, take the others down a few percents? I don't know what to do about the 2400hz because I never reached it.

[snowborder714]

Just blend the 2400Hz with the 2000Hz. If you don't reach that Hz level, just use the same value as the 2000Hz.