DSM won't run properly

Atuca · 05-05-2008, 04:32 PM

Well I am hoping thanks to DSMlink, i notice it is just a malfunctioning o2 sensor, but it still works and reads up and down. Than for some reason, it just stops working, reads .06 for a few seconds, than reads .88 for a few more after that. my timing looks like it is freaking out, I don't know what is going on.

Yesterday my car was working just fine. made a cool little video and everything. than today I go out to my car start it up and realize the steering wheel won't move. I check the power steering pump and, for some unknown reason, my belt is just hanging there!

As i go to run and turn my car off, the belt get caught up in the pully and the engine shut off before I could turn it off myself. I thought.. oh shit.. Upon further inspection, I see that the bracket holding the pump is bent, and the head of the bolt holding it there is gone! Now the belt is ####ed, no biggie bought a new one for 15 bucks, I manually rotated the crank and made sure all the other belts were ok, realigned the alternator belt which was what made the car shut off I think when the power steering pump got caught in it.

Now that may or may not be related to my problems, but it can be discussed here or else where, I am not concerned about it as much as the fact my car won't run properly now.

The car will drive just fine, idle just fine, and accelerate just fine to about 2.9k rpm, at which time it go put put put and sounds like I have a major boost leak. Checking my logs, everything goes outa wack. I didn;t change anything from yesterday and the car was working just fine, the only thing that changed was the belt breaking (which even when parking the car last night it was turning just fine.

Anyways, any ideas guys? I really need this to be fixed asap, it is my DD and I have mid terms tomorrow..

architechnik · 05-05-2008, 04:52 PM

It almost sounds like you've lost the connection to the maf sensor or as you said a MAJOR leak. That's just about the point that it really starts to affect everything. I don't know how the p/s pump could knock it out of whack, but it sounds like there are additional power problems; maybe a short circuit in there somewhere.

How is your power to your entire system? Alternator and its belt still in good order? Have you checked your timing...? I don't know what else it could be.

Atuca · 05-05-2008, 05:54 PM

on the off note, I got a new power steering belt in there, and wow, I have never been able to turn any of my eclipses like that so smooth, fast, and silent! I think I should change belts more often.

Anyways, no boost leaks, I will go check the MAF wiring, maybe I hit something outa wack. the reading on my turbo timer says the alternator is working just fine (has a voltage meter)

I dunno, can anyone tell from my DSMlink log?

I should also say that after the car bogs down and sometimes dies, it will idle fine after say 30 seconds. so.. something is off. but not permantly off I think. I hope it is repairable o.O

123bobby123 · 05-05-2008, 10:04 PM

Hi,

Sorry if this question isn't applicable to your problem, but why are your fuel trims so wacky?

Bill

Atuca · 05-05-2008, 10:33 PM

probably because I hae no idea how to tune, anyone care to help? I am hoping I just tuned my car outa working.

i have no idea how to tune, first time I even considered doing it and I couldn't find anyone to help me except Module_Unknown who kindly helped me over the phone even though he abandoned DSM for his EVO

But even than, he tried, but I have no idea what to do and sending me 10 links to read doesn't place me in the mind set and order I am to do them. Things like "adjust your dead time" first off takes me 20 mins to find where I adjust it, another 20 mins to find out what it means, than who knows how long it takes me to figure out what I am supposed to set it at.

So if anyone out there in DSM land wants to teach me, I promise your teachings won't end at me, I help anyone on these forums that I know how to help properly.

anyways..

Car still isn't working, been installing a short shifter while I wait for responses, stupid ebay short shifter needed to be over bored to fit on the shifter shoulder.. ass hats can't cut a hole the right size..

architechnik · 05-05-2008, 11:43 PM

Well that could very well be the problem. If you don't know how to tune, why did you drop the big bucks on dsmlink before finding out how to use it?! I guess it all takes starting somewhere. Have you checked the DSMLink forums for any advice or even a complete settings list that would be the same as your mods?

I am not too familiar with it, so I can't help you too much, but I'm sure that there are a few preset/saved settings that you could find that would work on your vehicle.

It does sound like you might have some engine temp/sensor issues. Have you checked your vac lines to the FPR and all the stuff on that side of the vehicle? Have you done any mods to the emissions controls - egr or purge can?

Atuca · 05-05-2008, 11:49 PM

Yea i have the same exact thread open on the dsmlink forums, and I am refreshing both there and here every 5 minutes.

I have an idea how to tune, but only based off what the how tos and walk through works. But I don't have the understanding to run 499whp on my 16g like some people.. :P

I havn't messed with anything smog wise and there are no boost leaks. I have an exhaust leak from the downpipe "bendy area" that i tore when doing my clutch install when dropping the transfer case, but that is it.

I thought maybe I set something wrong in dsmlink, but anitlag is diabled, and stutter box is still at 5500 RPMs and won't activate if the car is moving, so I think I am alright. Do you think it is possible my fuel trims are acting up when I reach ~3k rpms? I mean not alot has happened from yesterday night til this morning. i.e. nothing.

I wish I could give more info, I don't know what advice I am waiting for, it doesn't seem logical one day the car works, and the next, it doesn't.

architechnik · 05-06-2008, 01:35 AM

Have you looked at the MAF to see if it's been slogged with oil? If you had some blow through from the valve cover and it got on the MAF then it might be getting some incorrect readings. You said you don't have any boost leaks, what about before the turbo?

I keep thinking it has something to do with the air volume calculations from what it sounds like. Is there any change between different throttle position or gears or is it across the board at 3k?

Do you have a wideband O2 or are you relying on the stock sensors for readouts? If you have an exhaust leak that would easily explain the rear O2 having messed up readings, but it shouldn't change anything about the way the engine runs, it only tells you if the cat is shot.

I can't view your logs, is there any knock? Have you messed with your timing maps? Can you reset everything to a stock configuration and use the "sliders" to adjust the fuel?

Sorry about the slow responses, I've been working all night and only post when I take a break.

Atuca · 05-06-2008, 02:32 AM

my timing has been adjusted only at 5k+, and my fuel have been leaned out to get closer to a 11:1 ratio at WOT. I never check for boost leaks before the turbo, I will have to give that a wirl, but it doesn't explain how it after a few seconds after dieing it is able to start idling properly again..

I so fusterated, I got a short shifter installed in my car while waiting for your responses, so no biggie, I just wish I could drive it around and feel the power of the b&m short shifter clone

I will give it the night, hopefully my thread isn't lost in the nothingness of the interwebs, gonna borrow a car from a friend for the next few days, hopefully someone has some ideas. I will look into pre turbo boost leaks tomorrow. good night all

btw, no there is no knock, and I have only been able to get into second without hitting the 3k mark. So I would assume accross the board, but I am trying to avoid driving now.

123bobby123 · 05-06-2008, 08:30 AM

Hi,

You should read these links before doing anything else with your DSMLink. It might take a little while to read but they are easy reads and spell things out pretty well.

DSMLink Manual (user guide):
DSMLink - Downloads

DSMLink tuning guide:
Basic DSMLink Tuning Guide

DSM ECU Info (post#17):
First PocketLOGGER Datalog... advice??

After reading these, you should fix the hole in your exhaust and get your car tuned properly, and then we can probably troubleshot your problems better.

Also, what psi did you do the boost leak upto?

Bill

Atuca · 05-06-2008, 03:22 PM

I just reset the ECU back to stock settings and the car runs now, dies only occassionaly, but it is back firing everytime I shift. That means I am running rich right? So now I don't know if it is something I need to tune out or what? I am gonna see if putting my 99 ECU back in saves my car or not.

than at least if it still runs ad, I don't have to think it is the ECU tune.

bling5tatus · 05-06-2008, 03:38 PM

I'm sorry if this has already been covered, but have the caps been checked?

Atuca · 05-06-2008, 04:41 PM

I got my EPROM directly from Tom and ECMtuning. I would assume he gave me a properly working ecu, but maybe he never checked? Now, after resetting the ECU, I started to tune from scratch again. I got my STFT +/- 1% now , right where I want them, kinda. the LTFT though, for the life of me, will not 0 out. It stays at 12% consistantly, but..

the car is running just fine now. Sorta.

It is deing on deceleration, still has a few backfires/misfires, i don't know, "pops" when shifting. Something isn't right, but at least I was able to get to class to take my test.

here is a log form today after resetting stuff.

123bobby123 · 05-19-2008, 12:44 PM

Hi,

I will try to look at your logs more in depth when i get back from my errands, but you really got to work on getting those intake temps. down. I have never seen ones that high before.

Bill

Atuca · 05-19-2008, 02:46 PM

Well, I have an Dejon Intake pipe, which is very hot to the touch, as well as the UICP, which I thought was supposed to be cool to the touch. I bet that is where all my knock is coming from.

I fixed some boost leaks and got the car running much better, but there is still a bog when going WOT. I am getting a FMIC soon as my new credit card with 0% APR comes in

Lets hope it solves my problem with knock at least, and lower those temps.

123bobby123 · 05-19-2008, 03:33 PM

Hi,

Is there anyway that you can zero out the ecu fuel trims, like reset them. I ask because even if your short term fuel trims are in order the ecu still has to go into learn mode to adjust the long term fuel trims.

Do you have a wideband O2 sensor to log the air-fuel ratio properly?

It would make sense that it would backfire, becasue your long term fuel trim is so high so it would be adding a lot of fuel. But im not sure if your log backs that up, so I'm a little confused.

You could also swap in a spare working ecu to see if that will clear up these problems.

Bill

turboglenn · 05-19-2008, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Atuca

I got my EPROM directly from Tom and ECMtuning. I would assume he gave me a properly working ecu, but maybe he never checked? Now, after resetting the ECU, I started to tune from scratch again. I got my STFT +/- 1% now , right where I want them, kinda. the LTFT though, for the life of me, will not 0 out. It stays at 12% consistantly, but..

the car is running just fine now. Sorta.

It is deing on deceleration, still has a few backfires/misfires, i don't know, "pops" when shifting. Something isn't right, but at least I was able to get to class to take my test.

here is a log form today after resetting stuff.

ABckfirging is very rarely a sign of richness, i've been trying to write that in enough posts that people will hopefully remember what they read soon and that will become a myth of th epast.

2 things that will cause it are

a.) TPS not set correctlyt leaving the injectors firign a little gas into the cylinders while off the throttle.

b.) the "pop" or backfire come from being lean....it is a result of several engine cycles where the AFR's were so lean that the fuel wasn't even in enough abundance to burn and therefor went into the exhaust as unburnt fumes. after several times of this there becomes enough fumes/fuel to lite off and explode, but because so much of the last cycles that didin't burn went into the exhaust the flame front then lights the fumes in the exhaust causing the backfire...that's why everyone who thinks it's a rich condition and keeps leaning it out has the problem get worse

Black_Bullet · 05-19-2008, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turboglenn

ABckfirging is very rarely a sign of richness, i've been trying to write that in enough posts that people will hopefully remember what they read soon and that will become a myth of th epast.

2 things that will cause it are

a.) TPS not set correctlyt leaving the injectors firign a little gas into the cylinders while off the throttle.

b.) the "pop" or backfire come from being lean....it is a result of several engine cycles where the AFR's were so lean that the fuel wasn't even in enough abundance to burn and therefor went into the exhaust as unburnt fumes. after several times of this there becomes enough fumes/fuel to lite off and explode, but because so much of the last cycles that didin't burn went into the exhaust the flame front then lights the fumes in the exhaust causing the backfire...that's why everyone who thinks it's a rich condition and keeps leaning it out has the problem get worse

Really, I always thought it was from being too rich with low timing and fuel burning in the exhaust or soemthing. Ive set my tune really rich like 10.5 or something with really low timing before and it started backfiring after a hard pull. There wasnt any knock on the logger either.

Then theres the times when at WOT when im tuned rich, on a cold night, doing a high speed highway pull; NLTS'ing from 4th to 5th gear occasionally causes the car to belch flames out my 3in open DP ( E-cutout) and I've been told that even from a distance it looks like theres red neons under my car for a couple seconds. lol

123bobby123 · 05-19-2008, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turboglenn

a.) TPS not set correctlyt leaving the injectors firign a little gas into the cylinders while off the throttle.

Hi,

I got two questions for you:

1.) Because of your above statement and because the op has complained of his car bogging down when he slams the throttle open to WOT, do you think he could have a problem with his TPS?

2.) Also, I was lead to believe that the op is backfiring because of running rich because in his log Im pretty sure that when he closes the throttle to shift gears, the air fuel ratios are very rich. They are around high 12's to mid 13's. They should be much leaner then this when he shifts correct, like around 18:1 perhaps.

Glad you chimed in turboglenn, you always got some real good info.

Bill