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05-24-2006, 06:56 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Region: Rocky Mountain
Registered: Nov 2005
Posts: 355
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Need Help, First Log Driving to work
This is my first log with Pocketlogger. I need someones help to let me know if I have a problem or not. It is my drive to work. My turbo is set at 9 PSI max. Fuel Pressure is at 42 PSI. I have an Evo III 16g, cold air intake, fuel pump rewire mod, 255 LPH fuel pump, AFPR, Evo III o2 Housing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. If I need to log something different, please let me know. I want to learn how to read the logs and what to look for. Rep point to whomever can give me really good advice.
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05-24-2006, 07:33 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Wheaton, Illinois
Region: Midwest
Registered: Aug 2002
Posts: 908
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I couldn't even get through that without coming back here to tell you NOT TO DO THAT AGAIN. Your timing is brutal, you must be getting insane knock counts.
What are your AFC settings? You do have some sort of tuning device?
You aren't on 450cc injectors are you?
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05-24-2006, 07:42 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Region: Rocky Mountain
Registered: Nov 2005
Posts: 355
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by weith1111
I couldn't even get through that without coming back here to tell you NOT TO DO THAT AGAIN. Your timing is brutal, you must be getting insane knock counts.
What are your AFC settings? You do have some sort of tuning device?
You aren't on 450cc injectors are you?
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I have no idea what is going on with my engine. I just know it isn't running 100% right. I don't have a tuning device and I am running on the stock 2g injectors. Any suggestion on how I can get rid of the insane knock counts? What should my knock counts be at? Is it possible that my timing is off by a a tooth or two and that is what is causing the insane timing?
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05-24-2006, 07:50 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Wheaton, Illinois
Region: Midwest
Registered: Aug 2002
Posts: 908
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You aren't going to be able to see knock on a pocketlogger with a 2g, but you can watch your timing, and any place (once you are at WOT) where your timing drops you are most likely getting knock. Your timing at WOT from like 4000-7000 should be in the mid-upper teens. Getting timing of 3 degrees means something is super wrong.
Check your base timing. Should be 5* BTDC.
Check for boost leaks.
Get some bigger injectors, running that turbo on stock injectors, even at the lowest PSI you can, isn't the safest thing in the world.
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05-24-2006, 07:52 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Region: Rocky Mountain
Registered: Nov 2005
Posts: 355
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by weith1111
You aren't going to be able to see knock on a pocketlogger with a 2g, but you can watch your timing, and any place (once you are at WOT) where your timing drops you are most likely getting knock. Your timing at WOT from like 4000-7000 should be in the mid-upper teens. Getting timing of 3 degrees means something is super wrong.
Check your base timing. Should be 5* BTDC.
Check for boost leaks.
Get some bigger injectors, running that turbo on stock injectors, even at the lowest PSI you can, isn't the safest thing in the world.
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What is BTDC?
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05-24-2006, 08:35 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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From: St. Louis, Missouri
Region: Midwest
Registered: Feb 2005
Posts: 298
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BTDC = Below Top Dead Center 
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05-24-2006, 09:28 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Wheaton, Illinois
Region: Midwest
Registered: Aug 2002
Posts: 908
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by 1glaserturbo
BTDC = Below Top Dead Center 
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It's actually BEFORE top dead center. But...
http://www.plymouthlaser.com/timin.htm will walk you through it. Same process should apply to the 2g.
____________________________
Andy
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05-24-2006, 09:52 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Region: Rocky Mountain
Registered: Nov 2005
Posts: 355
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Is the cam angle sensor what tells the car where the timing is? If so, is it possible that it is bad and that is why I am getting the extremelly low timing readings at WOT? My car has 132,000 miles on it and when I replaced the engine, I transferred over all the old sensors.
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05-24-2006, 10:10 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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From: Nashville, Tennessee
Region: Southeast
Registered: Feb 2003
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Even if you were going to replace the CAS, you couldn't do it without re-checking the timing to make sure it is correct. 
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-Alex
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05-24-2006, 10:48 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Wheaton, Illinois
Region: Midwest
Registered: Aug 2002
Posts: 908
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by travislaw
Is the cam angle sensor what tells the car where the timing is? If so, is it possible that it is bad and that is why I am getting the extremelly low timing readings at WOT? My car has 132,000 miles on it and when I replaced the engine, I transferred over all the old sensors.
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If you did this work yourself and just plugged in everything on the new motor, your CAS, TPS, timing, base idle and god knows what else is probably off. All that stuff has to be calibrated properly, you can't just bolt it in "like it was on the old engine." That link I posted has steps on how to do many of these tests.
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Andy
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05-24-2006, 10:59 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Region: Rocky Mountain
Registered: Nov 2005
Posts: 355
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I had a mechanic with me when I swapped out the engine. Although I am sure he just eye-balled things. I want to get my car running right. I will try the stuff you posted. One of the things I love about these cars is all the stuff you learn by doing the work yourself. Where is the CAS located on the 2g?
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05-24-2006, 11:05 AM
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#12 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Wheaton, Illinois
Region: Midwest
Registered: Aug 2002
Posts: 908
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by travislaw
I had a mechanic with me when I swapped out the engine. Although I am sure he just eye-balled things. I want to get my car running right. I will try the stuff you posted. One of the things I love about these cars is all the stuff you learn by doing the work yourself.
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A good thing to do would be to get a manual and go to the engine electronics section. It should cover all the sensors and switches and such, and how to check all of them to make sure they are working properly.
I'm SURE your car will run a lot better once you do this. Having your base timing off can turn your car into a slow, misfiring, gas guzzling POS.
I struggled with power loss which I had attributed to boost leaks or something wrong with the turbo for weeks before I checked my base timing. The first time I dropped the hammer after setting it properly I almost crapped myself, it was like a new car. I'm sure my car was happy too!
____________________________
Andy
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05-24-2006, 11:44 AM
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#13 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Region: Rocky Mountain
Registered: Nov 2005
Posts: 355
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Are we talking a factory manual, or like a Haynes or Chilton manual. I have the one of those manual already. I know how fast the car should be and it hasn't been that way. I hope the timing is just off slightly. I have spent over a year now fixing and refixing things. I just ordered an SAFC-II this afternoon. It will be a little while before I can afford bigger injectors.
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05-30-2006, 08:35 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Region: Rocky Mountain
Registered: Nov 2005
Posts: 355
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I took my car to the dealership and they found out that my Knock Sensor had died. So I replaced it and now the car is running awesome. The SAFC-II is installed, I just haven't had a chance to tune it yet.
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05-30-2006, 08:55 AM
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#15 (permalink)
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From: Nashville, Tennessee
Region: Southeast
Registered: Feb 2003
Posts: 821
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That is good to hear. Now you just need to do a pull from around 3k to redline so that we can help you further tune it.
____________________________
-Alex
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