1g Talon Brake Rotors

[DirtyBirdRacing]

Hi,

Are the front and rear rotors on a 1990 Talon TSi AWD the same regardless of having ABS or not having ABS. Just wanted to make sure.

Bill

 

[90 AWD]

nope...

 

[DirtyBirdRacing]

That is what I thought. Thank you because I am going to get powerslot rotors for all 4 corners, and was looking around and found some good prices but the did not specify if they were for ABS or non-ABS cars.

Thanks,
Bill

 

[steve]

Just a suggestion but if you going to spend good money on powerslot's you should consider upgrading the front calipers to the dual piston "Big Brakes" rather than figuring it out later. It's a huge difference in performance for a few bucks more. Used dual piston calipers can be founf in good shape for as little as $35 each. That's what I paid for them at a local junk yard. I wish I had done the swap ten years ago.

Steve

 

[DirtyBirdRacing]

How deos this sound:

Front: -93 or 94 Powerslot Rotors(Deos it matter if it is for ABS or not?)
-93 or 94 AWD 2 piston Caliper(Deos it matter if it is ABs or not?)
-Hub to caliper mounting brackets for 93 or 94 AWD 2 piston
Caliper (with threaded fitting not banjo style)
-Metal Master Brake Pads

Rear: -90 Powerslot Rotor
-Metal Master Brake Pads

Can I do the conversioon with just this stuff. I can bleed the brakes like normal when I do this right? Should I completly drain the master cylinder of brake fluid when I change the two front calipers or should I just top it off when I am done? What brake fluid should I use? I have never changed calipers before so I do nto know.

Thanks,
Bill

 

[steve]

Sounds good. Depending on what you get with the calipers you may need shim (MR389652) and clip (MR389599) kits from Mitsu for the new pads and brackets. From the JY mine still had old pads installed and I just cleaned the shims and clips up.

The swap is real simple. It's one extra bolt and the brake line over just changing pads and rotors. You remove the two hub to caliper bracket bolts, disconnect the brake line and remove the whole caliper/bracket assembly, pads and all.

Remove the old rotors, install the new ones.

Bolt the new brackets on (torque 58 - 72 ft lbs), remove the lower guide pin bolt from the caliper (don't wipe any grease from the pin and keep it clean), swing the caliper up and install the clips, shims and pads in the bracket. Use brake grease (anti-squeek) on the backs of the pads before putting the shims on. Also carefully apply brake grease to the surfaces of the clips where the pads contact them. Avoid getting ANY grease on the front of the pads or the rotors.

Swing the caliper down over the pads and reinstall the guide pin (torque 54 ft lbs).

Reattach the brake line and bleed/flush all the old fluid from each brake. You'll notice the color difference, new fluid is almost clear where the old fluid will be brown.

ORDINARY AIR-BLEEDING PROCEDURES (takes two people)
(1) Depress the brake pedal several times until resistance is felt; then, with the pedal depressed, loosen the bleeder screw l/3 to l/2 turn and then tighten it before the fluid
pressure is all gone.
(2) Release the brake pedal. Repeat this procedure until there are no more air bubbles in the brake fluid. (continue until new fluid is seen to flush)

It seems like a lot but you have to do everything but change the brackets on a normal pad change anyway. I always bleed/flush the lines every pad change even if I didn't crack the brake lines since people don't seem to change it otherwise.

Steve

 

[steve]

Originally posted by 123bobby123
I can bleed the brakes like normal when I do this right? Should I completly drain the master cylinder of brake fluid when I change the two front calipers or should I just top it off when I am done? What brake fluid should I use? I have never changed calipers before so I dont know.[/B]

I wouldn't drain the master, just make a mess but keep it off the paint and bleed/flush after.

I used the Vavoline DOT3/4 Synthetic on the last few brake jobs. The Ford Heavy Duty fluid from a dealer seems to be quite good but I didn't have any reason to go to one otherwise. The key thing to watch it the DOT class and look for a boiling temp spec. The Vavoline had the highest dry boiling temp (502F) of all the DOT3/4 fluids I checked at Autozone.

steve

 

[DirtyBirdRacing]

Thanks a lot Steve and 90AWD for all the help. Thanks Steve for all the directions and suggestion on the brake fluid I should use, they are highly appreciated. My last question is, is it okay for old brake fluid and new brake fluid to mix or be used at the same time, it will not cause me any problems? I will post after I do the upgrade to tell you how it went.

Thanks a lot,
Bill

 

[steve]

It's not ok to use a can of open fluid that's been in the garage for a while but at long as the same DOT type fluid is used it's ok to flush with new fluid and not drain and clean the system. Your going to get most of the old fluid out when bleed the brakes if you keep bleeding until you see new clean fluid. I assume that's what your asking.

Steve

 

[DirtyBirdRacing]

Yes it was.

Thanks,
Bill