Hubcentric Spacer Question

[smills1840]

I want to get some spacers, but I know I need to be hubcentric. I currently have the ASA AR1's on the car, but I'm not sure of all the specs.

Really, my main question is where can I find spacers that are hubcentric to the car and also the the rim? The center bore of the rim is larger than the hub, so there are adapter rings on the car right now. But how will I go about keeping everything hubcentric if I get spacers?

 

[lowell]

EVO/DSM Wheel Spacers - JM Fabrications

 

[TSiAWD666]

http://www.motorsport-tech.com/

I just had custom hubcentric spacers made with center rings sized to adapt the 67.1 cb to my wheels' 73mm cb. Look great, very prompt shipment and great customer service. We'll see how they hold up to road racing.

 

[Xploitn]

There are two types of wheel spacers which can be seen in ichiba v1 vs ichiba v2 spacers. The v2 type are generally for larger mm spacers. I only needed 10mm spacers so I went with the v1 spacers.

What size spacers do you need? (Have you measured using the washer method?)


I think the v1's would work well to keep you hubcentric with the adapter rings. If the product's picture on their site doesn't show it well enough, I could take a wheel off tomorrow evening and snap some pics to give you a better idea.

http://www.motorsport-tech.com/

I just had custom hubcentric spacers made with center rings sized to adapt the 67.1 cb to my wheels' 73mm cb. Look great, very prompt shipment and great customer service. We'll see how they hold up to road racing.

John, what material are your spacers made from? Just curious.

But take what I say above with a grain of salt. I don't have the adapter rings and therefore I'm not hubcentric but I could still take pictures of the Ichiba v1 spacers if it helps you. The those adapter rings would be wrapping themselves around an aluminum ring that is about 1/8" thick. I don't know if that would be strong enough to prevent the lug studs from shearing off but I also won't get into the debate on whether hubcentric is necessary as I'm not an engineer.

Interesting how three responses all came from people using RPF1's.

 

[greengoblin]

The Motorsport tech units are built from 6061. There very nice units and as John stated they have good customer support.

 

[TSiAWD666]

One thing you have to be mindful of with most off-the-shelf 5mm hubcentric spacers is that they don't have a hubcentric ring themselves and are reliant on the one built into the hub. Basically they just sit around the hub ring and eat up some of its depth. Hopefully they leave enough for your wheel to sit on, or its spacer (if you have a spacer) to sit on.

I found on my car this was not the case due to my aftermarket rotors on the front of my car. My rotors have a very thick aluminum hat, I want to say it's like 10 mm by eyeballing them, and with those plus a 5mm spacer I had almost no center ring left to put my enkei's adapter rings on. So I went with Motorsports Tech to get some 5mm spacers for the front with a 67.1mm inner, 73mm outer, ring machined into them. While this got my wheels on, we'll see if the spacers will support everything on the road course.

Another concern when using spacers of course is thread engagement on your lug studs. By adding the spacers you will lose some. I see posted everywhere you want a number of threads equal to at least half the diameter of your lugs, which in our case would be 12 x .5 = 6. I'm assuming that's a good/safe rule of thumb. On my car I have only 5 threads engaged up front which is a problem. My possible solutions are to try extended thread lug nuts, or longer lugs. I'm leaning towards the former, but to use them on my enkei rpf1 wheels I will need to drill out their lug holes just a tiny bit so the ET lug nuts will fit into them. The fellow at Motorsports Tech told me this is in his experience a pretty common practice and not something to be scared about, but we'll see

Well Andrew Brilliant is sharing tons of info on his car, and here's a pic of this front hub:

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Seems spacers can survive road racing.

 

[smills1840]

I like those motorsport units. I'll be doing the washer test tomorrow, as well as measuring my wheel's centerbore. Thanks for all the help guys!

 

[Xploitn]

John, don't hack your RFP1s! Ichiba sells 50mm spacers that fit without having to remove the hub. I tried using the Evo ARP studs that about 65mm but they were too long. the 50mm was a very tight squeeze but it can be done. For the record the 50mm aren't long enough for a 10mm spacer. It sketches me out when I think about the number of threads I have engaged...

Here is a picture of the ARP studs that require rear hub removal:
<a href="http://s5.photobucket.com/user/blakteky/media/2B0BC826-3EDB-481F-AC1C-657ECAF4CDC5-463-000000CDBE729617_zps19258302.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y177/blakteky/2B0BC826-3EDB-481F-AC1C-657ECAF4CDC5-463-000000CDBE729617_zps19258302.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 2B0BC826-3EDB-481F-AC1C-657ECAF4CDC5-463-000000CDBE729617_zps19258302.jpg"/></a>

 

[greengoblin]

Thread engagement. Minimum Thread Engagement Formula and Calculation ISO - Engineers Edge

 

[Xploitn]

Just to go full circle (I'm no engineer but I'm pretty sure I did the calculations right)
Tensile Stress Area 100 ksi or less (At) = 0.09549
Major Diameter (D) = 0.406
Threads per inch TPI (p = 1/TPI)) = 17
Minimum Thread Engagement Length (Le) = 0.33057 inches or 5.619 threads.

I could break down the numbers if anyone has any questions

 

[Cox Abele]

Figuring out your backspacing and how much of a spacer you need is going to make a whole lot of difference in how you look at spacers.

Personally, if I were you and was going to use a hub centric ring, I'd get it in the stock size and adapt the wheels to it, this way you can still run a spare, or throw a different wheel on if necessary.

I got a set of ASA AR1s from a Mazda 3. The bolt pattern was correct, but the back spacing was all wrong. They are a 58 which would look sunk in and wrong. I opted to go with a 20mm hub centric bolt-on spacer making my effective spacing 38. My hub centric ring is factory sized and I have the little plastic washer doo-dads for the wheels to adapt them down. 20mm is a lot of additional spacing, but this is just as an example of why measuring is key.

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[TSiAWD666]

I just picked up some replacement rotors with hats and measured the hats. My Stoptech Aerorotor hats are 8mm thick in case that's of use to someone heh.

I wonder how that compares to stock DSM or Evo rotors? Anyone got one to measure?

 

[TSiAWD666]

As an alternative to longer wheel studs I had my wheels drilled out with a 5/8" drill bit, which took off barely any aluminum from my Enkei RPF1 wheels, to fit some extended thread lug nuts. I got mine from Motorsports Tech but they don't have them listed on their website. The ones I have at the moment look like these:

ET Conical Bulge Lug Nuts 12x1.5

These were a very tight fit though and I can't get anything but a 3/8" 19mm socket on them. A 1/2" socket was took thick walled to fit. I may look at one of the thinner ET lug nuts solutions so I can return to using a 1/2" socket on these to keep life simpler.

The ET lug nuts made moved me up to around 10 threads of engagement up front, and 11.5 in the rear.

 

[ceedawg]

http://www.motorsport-tech.com/

I just had custom hubcentric spacers made with center rings sized to adapt the 67.1 cb to my wheels' 73mm cb. Look great, very prompt shipment and great customer service. We'll see how they hold up to road racing.

Yep old thread but these guys listed in the link above are the way to go for the right wheel spacers to work with the enkies and the 2g hub.
WIll down the road also get spacers made for my BMW 335i Xdrive