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10 Second Street Car Suspention Setup

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race_me89

10+ Year Contributor
70
0
Dec 8, 2008
Selden, New York
I Have talked to a few people about building the car for drag racing in mind. The thing is I want to drive it and have fun on and off the street. So i have decided to go with a 4 spider center diff and 4 bolt rear lsd and stock front diff. So i was trying to figure out how to setup the car so that if i decided to do something silly like go to learn how to really drive at a real road course i could. I was reading about better spring rates and better rear sway bar. I have figured out that after the shocks and spring rates match a car can potentialy ride close to a stock feel. I am posting this not so much for opnion but more for the expertise. The truth is I have confused myself worse then before.

So 1g with enough power to go mid to low 10's in the quarter, but I want to be able to go around a bend and feel confedent. I don't really think this is all that crazy. I belive with the right parts it's more then possible I just havent learned enough about suspension math and geometry to do this by myself.

If anyone can teach me it would be greatly appreciated

Thank you
Matt
 
I agree with you and I have the same goals. So far I'm thinking new bushings all around, better anti-roll bars, front & rear sway bars, and doing the Koni/GC set-up. By making the subframes and chassis stiffer I can run a softer spring and should have a better ride that I can always set the stiffness on the shocks when I'm at the track.
 
Yea I agree with the bushings being a priority. I read that with some math in reguards to full wheel travel, corner weight and something about pivot points you can do math on what the exact spring weight should be and when matched properly to shocks it controls weight transfer and body roll but all the math was done with measurements that I didn't quite understand
 
The thing is suspension setups for drag racing are totally different than the suspension setup required for road racing.. If you want both setups in the same car, you need real expensive adjustable coil overs to be able to change setups.
 
I understand that a drag racing alignment is a much different alignment then a road race alignment, but if I setup the car with drag racing in mind as far as the alignment goes but I keep the sway bars I think the car should feel pretty good on the road maybe not a real road race car but I would think it won't feel like I'm driving a junk box.

I may not have explain myself correctly, I want to setup the car for drag racing. But I want to be able to drive to car meets and back and forth from the track which is two and a half hours away and I have to drive through new York city to get there.
 
Rear toe eliminators, upper and lower tubular control arms, poly front control arm bushings, subframe bushings all around. RM or Whiteline anti roll bars. A front tower bar that doesn't suck.
 
I understand that a drag racing alignment is a much different alignment then a road race alignment, but if I setup the car with drag racing in mind as far as the alignment goes but I keep the sway bars I think the car should feel pretty good on the road maybe not a real road race car but I would think it won't feel like I'm driving a junk box.

I may not have explain myself correctly, I want to setup the car for drag racing. But I want to be able to drive to car meets and back and forth from the track which is two and a half hours away and I have to drive through new York city to get there.

Driving back and forth to the track thru NY isn't road racing... Been you only want to run 10s is possible to set up the car for all 3 purposes as these days it's pretty easy to run 10s in a street car and still be driveable at the streets or at a simple road race course.
 
Rear toe eliminators, upper and lower tubular control arms, poly front control arm bushings, subframe bushings all around. RM or Whiteline anti roll bars. A front tower bar that doesn't suck.

I just did all of these things. 100% difference in the way the car feels. Everyone needs to stop trying to fix their suspension with new springs and fix the root of the problem - the damn bushings.
 
Driving back and forth to the track thru NY isn't road racing... Been you only want to run 10s is possible to set up the car for all 3 purposes as these days it's pretty easy to run 10s in a street car and still be driveable at the streets or at a simple road race course.

No, but I believe a car build to be a good road course car will transfer over to good drag strip results. Sure drag cars run smaller lighter brakes and no sway bars for example, but things like bushings, chassis strengthening, and good shocks/springs/coilovers are things that can apply to both.
 
Rear toe eliminators, reinforced control arms, poly front control arm bushings, subframe bushings all around ,anti roll bars, front n rear tower bars, front limters
 
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