What Are These That Came with "Prothane" Suspension Bushings?

[slipstream808]

OK I have no idea what these metal spacers are. They are about an inch in diameter and half and inch thick. They came with my Prothane bushings. I can't find them on the parts list. Any help?

:EDIT:

I put Energy Suspension bushings not thinking. They are PROTHANE bushings! Thanks!

 

[EvoRage]

Can you take a picture of the complete set you got? They could be inserts for the bushings.

 

[Tyeler18]

Those go in the bushings, so that it's not a metal bolt vs polyurethane bushings.

Unless you're asking which bushings they go in?

 

[slipstream808]

Um... what bushings do they go in then? So far I've installed all bushings that were simply two bushing halves with a metal sleeve in them so I have no idea what they go in.

 

[dsmpat95]

Did the kit come with the shift base bushings. If so it looks like they go to the tranny shift assembly.

 

[nitroazz]

They look a lot like shift bushings. The only other place those could be used is in the swaybar. If you have everything used tho..

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[kchaazz]

They look a lot like shift bushings. The only other place those could be used is in the swaybar. If you have everything used tho..

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The bushings used for the shifter assembly arent made of metal in these kits. To the OP, see the bushings in the above picture? Lower right corner? Perhaps the insert you are referring to goes into those bushings??

 

[slipstream808]

OH CRAP!!! I'm so sorry guys! I got the Prothane bushings. Damn. Sorry to have wasted some valuable time.

FYI I still don't know what they are for.

 

[ACM]

Those short steel spacers are for the rear toe arms. The Prothane press-in sleeves are shorter than stock, so that you can wiggle the arm into position; once the arm is in position, one of those spacers has to be inserted to take up the remaining gap.

Check the rear toe arms when you remove them, you will notice that the bushing assembly is not symmetrical, it is longer on one side of the arm compared to the other - make sure you assemble the bushings into the toe arms with the correct asymmetry.

 

[slipstream808]

That's what I thought. Since the bolt in the bushing is rust welded in I will have to cut it out (as usual) and worry about it later. Thanks again!

 

[ACM]

The toe bolts are still available - however the rear lower lateral arm bolts are not, and unless you plan on dropping the the fuel tank or rear subframe, you will have to cut those bolts to remove the arms. Assuming they're not seized of course

When I did mine I sourced bolts from MSC Direct; they are unusually long, very few places carry them.

The toe arms use the outer bushing sleeve to strengthen the arm - the toe arm is just a stamped U channel without the bushing. In order to both press the stock bushing out and to press the Prothane outer sleeve into place, you will need spacers inside the U channel to stop the arm from collapsing.

 

[slipstream808]

The lower lateral arm wasn't an issue at all. It's just those toe bolts. I'm thinking I can just but the bolt and burn out the bushings and install new ones. No need for new toe arms.

And anyways wouldn't the lateral control arm bolts be something you could get at Ace Hardware or something? The toe bolts would be harder as they are special.

 

[Strm Trpr]

Suspension hardware is all metric grade 10.9.

Good luck finding M10 or M12 screws with a pitch of 1.25mm and grade 10.9 at your local hardware store.

I wouldn't put any hardware store metric screws on any load carrying components, especially suspension components, but that's just me.

 

[ACM]

Rear toe arms are about $40 each with non-replaceable ball joints - why would you waste the effort on old arms ?

The lower arm bolts are very long, much longer than anything you'll find at a hardware store. Also, as Chris noted, the only thing you should ever use hardware store hardware for is trim screws, the stuff is 99% junk. Even if they did carry 10.9 rated hardware the only thing you can be sure of is that it won't be anywhere near that strength. Not worth the risk.

 

[greengoblin]

Like Charles said. They are for the toe arm. Stock bushing is asymmetrical so you need the spacer. pics for reference. It also makes putting the Toe arm in much easier.

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[slipstream808]

Rear toe arms are about $40 each with non-replaceable ball joints - why would you waste the effort on old arms ?

Ah those are available. I misunderstood what you said and confused myself. Thanks!

 

[psycho]

McMaster has M10 & M12x1.25 10.9 class up to 120mm partially threaded. And to 50mm fully threaded.

And I use either a local company that specializes in bolts and fasteners or McMaster.

Make sure when you cut the bolt for the toe arm, you cut on the head side, inbetween the subframe and the arm itself.

 

[knochgoon24]

Fastenal might have the "normal" bolt.

 

[greengoblin]

I'm sure you know but DO NOT put the poly bushing in the front lower control arm where the dampner fork bolts to. Keep the OEM one there.

Kevin

 

[slipstream808]

Why I'm awake now? I don't know. ^^ But that one I think everyone should know. ^^

 

[97gst_spyder]

I didn't need that metal piece on my 97 or 96 spyder, and my buddie didn't need them on his nt 99 spyder... I think there only for awd cars.

 

[slipstream808]

I didn't need it either and I agree that I think they are only AWD cars.