Recently I had to replace the steering rack on one of the 2Gs I am currently working on. Since it needed much work and the owner was interested in a manual rack I decided to try and solve the 2G manual rack dilemma. I wanted to come up with a comparable solution.
My first step was to get together with a rack and pinion re-manufacturing specialist to see what we could come up with. The most common solution for many people is to simply loop the lines. This however creates a few problems which include too much play in the steering due to the power assist, torsion bars and rotary valve.
After some brain storming we came up with a much better solution that does not involve looping of the lines. The play in the steering is no longer there, there is no more fluid in the rack and it makes it much easier to turn without causing damage such as with the looping of the lines.
Part of the modification includes:
Full disassembly, cleaning and inspection of the steering rack.
A few key modifications done to the torsion bars and rotary valve.
Using grease instead of fluid
The outcome of this project is a functioning 2G manual rack that has no play in the steering, no power steering lines, is easy to turn and does not have leaks due to power steering fluid. This is a long term solution that will provide a better driving experience
then looping the lines.
The pictures below are the outcome of what was done to a rusty, dirty, greasy, blown rack.
I will get a more detailed writeup with more pictures with another set. When doing this one I wasnt really expecting to do a writeup with pictures and it was done rather fast so I didnt get a chance to get everything documented.
i was going to take the lines off and cap them but i didnt want to hunt down the right size plug
it seems with the power assist removed and the fluid taken out, torsion bars welded etc it for some reason it turns real smooth and easy i mean its hard to explain i guess without coming over and trying it yourself ill work on a better write up with details. i am going to talk to the guy i was working with about the reasons of why its easier and explain all the details
sorry for no update ill have the full write up done in a few days i was out of town
sorry just been busy the place i went to does not deal with the public they only deal with part stores such as auto zone etc ill have the write up this weekend also soon as [plug deleted] gets there site and store up and running there going to stock them most likely, I'm trying to find a few more cores and get a few more people to test them on there cars if anyone is interested in testing let me know
Last edited by Defiant; 07-26-2009 at 03:35 AM.
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Sounds similar to the "Miata Mod". I have this mod done to my 1g rack that was originally a power rack. I'm curious to know what modifications you have done to the valve housing as I left mine unmodified. I haven't driven the car since the mod, but it turns very easily and I am impressed so far. Here's how my 1g rack turned out after unbolting the lines and cutting the fittings off the tube. The fittings were removed from the lines and the tube and fittings were welded shut.
____________________________
Jim H.
B16g 90 AWD 6/4
DD
Mustang II steering and suspension components are commonly used parts on many streetrods and muscle cars these days.
I have a couple dozen of those racks on the shelf here at work, but the higher-ups aren't going to let me take one home for mock up unless I pay for it first. Maybe next winter...
____________________________
-Paul Volk-
'99 GSX
'91 TSI
Mustang II steering and suspension components are commonly used parts on many streetrods and muscle cars these days.
I have a couple dozen of those racks on the shelf here at work, but the higher-ups aren't going to let me take one home for mock up unless I pay for it first. Maybe next winter...
Explain to them there's a huge market for these for the 2g DSMs. It would only benefit the company if it fit. Patent that shit or something and sell it via company. If they say no, explain to them that you are Paul Volk, owner of the first compounded turbocharger system and that if you wanted to, you could be president of said company and fire them all. Just cause you're Paul Volk.
____________________________
Tim
Grace: 1998 Eclipse GST
Daisy: 1990 Jeep XJ
I was thinking the same thing. I wonder how far off the mounting points are? That, and the overall length.
Aside from that, it would only be a matter of a universal joint, and some lines/fittings.
The aftermarket ones that I've seen have smooth tube so some fab work would be needed. This is a 71-72 pinto one but same thing. 71-72 Pinto Individual Racks
This unit weighs only 12lbs with steering specifications of 3.75 turns lock-to-lock; rack travel 5.25"; overall length 45 1/2 inches.
I did this two weeks ago to my ride. I'd just like to point out that the inner tie rod ends should require 5lb force to move them. If they're tight in the sockets but move around, they are NG according to the FSM.
I ended up replacing all 4 tie rod ends and both bellows just to be sure.
I did this two weeks ago to my ride. I'd just like to point out that the inner tie rod ends should require 5lb force to move them. If they're tight in the sockets but move around, they are NG according to the FSM.
I ended up replacing all 4 tie rod ends and both bellows just to be sure.
I'm interested in this as well for road racing. I like the speed sensitive power steering in my CTS-V, but from what I've read I don't think I will like the stock DSM set-up. The car is being built strictly for the track.
Gonna get an alignment on Wed or Thurs and see if the handling improves.
I'm not going to knock this rack yet since I havent had it properly aligned yet but when I do I'll let you guys know how it goes so stay tuned
I did this two weeks ago to my ride. I'd just like to point out that the inner tie rod ends should require 5lb force to move them. If they're tight in the sockets but move around, they are NG according to the FSM.
I ended up replacing all 4 tie rod ends and both bellows just to be sure.
Ok, so I had a good nights sleep and now it's time to post my results.
First drive through the parking lot was hell and all driving was done under 10mph.
I feel like the steering is fighting me the whole way and it's easier to turn right then it is left but is still hard to turn either way you go. It also feels kinda spongy turning to the left too.
I'm not going to knock it yet as I still need to get an alignment but I'm just gonna have to wait and see until I get it done on Wednesday(I'm broke )
I hope the steering gets better as the toe is probably off enough to make steering more difficult than it really should be.
When lining up the spline from the rack to the steering shaft the steering wheel was kept as straight as possible and both tie rod ends were measured to have it all line up as evenly as possible to avoid unbolting the steering wheel like a few people have done in the past.
With that being said stay tuned and on Wednesday if not Thursday I'll post my results after some street driving with a proper alignment.
As far as a write up on the removal and install of the ps rack is concerned, I'll post that up a lil later if enough people are interested in one considering that the whole process of the removal is pretty straight forward.
Let me know what you guys think and if you have any questions feel free to ask.
Edit: turning radius is a lil over a full turn of the steering wheel lock to lock.
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