I burned out all four bushings with acetylene torches, now I have to grind the holes clean. Did you remove the old ones yet? Did you remove the metal jacket as well (not the inner sleeve)? Here's what it looked like when burnt out.
This is from the prototype install when i got the first set of bushing made, This might help you out a bit..
First picture
a stock rear bushing in good shape.
Second picture
you can see the bushing rolls right over and has no support. The two half moon pieces in the above pictures are steel and give it something to cushion against but only after 30 or more degrees of movement..... I know for a fact mine are totally shot so I'm sure its way worst than this in heavy load conditions
Third picture
The removal of the suck factory rubber bushing. I used no special tools nothing that can't be aquired locally.
Drill with a 15/64 bit. Just what was laying on the bench. Any bit around this size will work. The rubber isn't all the way around but just in two small radiused areas 180 out from each other they probably take up 45 degrees on each opposing sides total. Insert said bit and get after it. I put it in at and angle and move up and down to rip through the stuff. Total time 3 minutes maybe. Now take out the center piece with the steel bushing. This is what it will look like.
Now with this removed you have a 1/16 to 1/8 inch layer of rubber to deal with. I chucked up a cut of /grinding wheel in a mandrel and started after it. After 30 seconds I said forget this It works ...to expedite the situation I broke out the torch and burnt out the remanding rubber. Took about 5 mins to burn it all off. A large hole saw could also be used to cut away on the inside.
DO NOT USE A TORCH WHILE THE SUBFRAME IS STILL IN THE CAR OR UNDER IT....BEING DEAD WILL SUCK
Remember the torch can ignite fumes from the gas tank and will create one large explosion
Forth Picture -
Now if you look at the picture of the cartridge roll ...Look deep inside the hole you'll notice that theres a shadow inside the top of the subframe assembly this is because from the factory they build the subframe then the bushing itself has a metal jacket. The jacket is formed then the rubber is vulcanized to the jacket with the steel bushing placed in the middle.
The jacket in this is NOT TO BE REMOVED. Now the jacket has a small rounded leading edge so it aligns and falls into place when the subframe was original built...The poly bushing goes in 80% of the way by hand the last little bit slows down because the metal jacket gets smaller and radius out. This is what holds the poly bushing in place.
Fifth Picture
Is the bushing installed
Now the steel bushing. It was cut off the interpiece saved from above. Razor blade and wirewheel works for this. As the bushing goes in it actually pushes out on the polyurethane. This continues to help lock these in the subframe.
My best guess would be about 3 to 4 hours for the average joe to remove the subframe slide it out and install these.
I don't understand what you mean by the "metal jacket" in step 4 and "outer metal sleeve" for the moustache brace.
Far as I can tell, you removed the "metal jacket" in step 3 for the subframe bushings, along with the inner sleeve?
And where is the "outer metal sleeve" for the moustache brace, I only see the poly bushing with the inner sleeve saved from the stock bushing?
Thanks!
EDIT - Here's how I think it should go together, as far as subframe. The ring would go under all that, on the part of the bushing that protrudes. Is that correct?
Here's what I think you meant by "metal jacket", the bottom sleeve. Is that what you meant? If so, I don't get how it fits into this.
And here's how I think the moustache one goes together. Again, is that correct?
The outer METAL SLEEVE MUST NOT BE REMOVE...
If the outer metal sleeve is remove from subframe or the mustache brace the bushing will not fit.The hole will become too big.
When I first made these I had remove the outer sleeve and I must say it was a pain in the ass to get it out. So I made the bushing to fit with the sleeve in place.
The kit that fits 2g, is it the one that says galant vr-4/gsx AwD?
And this kit what bushings does it replace ? Is it only the 4 rear subframe bushings?
If any one has more information on this please pm me I'm very intrested.
The kit that fits 2g, is it the one that says galant vr-4/gsx AwD?
And this kit what bushings does it replace ? Is it only the 4 rear subframe bushings?
If any one has more information on this please pm me I'm very intrested.
These kits are only for the 1G.
I am currently working on getting the 2G made but is going to take some time...
See the pics to see the mounting points have the red circle on the two subframe.
I can get these made in any color but it will take about two weeks.
I have a set of these waiting to go into my fathers car. They look really good. I have a set of Noltec's in my car for a galant and kinda wish I used these for my subframe. Either way the rear of my car feels stiff.
Just so that I am clear for the installation of the bushing. When the old rubber bushing is remove you will notice a two layers of metal , Do not remove or separate them.
I will try to get pics later.
Just clean all the old rubber out and install the new bushing.
If you need more info or need to get a set do not hesitate to contact me
Just so that I am clear for the installation of the bushing. When the old rubber bushing is remove you will notice a two layers of metal , Do not remove or separate them.
I will try to get pics later.
Just clean all the old rubber out and install the new bushing.
If you need more info or need to get a set do not hesitate to contact me
What you're saying is the stock bushing has a metal shell that is pressed into the subframe. Burn out the bushing, thus leaving that shell still inside. I will hopefully get mine installed in a few weeks and will take some pics along the way.
Just so that I am clear for the installation of the bushing. When the old rubber bushing is remove you will notice a two layers of metal , Do not remove or separate them.
I will try to get pics later.
Just clean all the old rubber out and install the new bushing.
If you need more info or need to get a set do not hesitate to contact me
Pm me some info on the 1g kit. I also have a buddy with a 2gawd spyder show car and we have been loking for some bushings for it. Hopefully, you can get a 2g kit done before the car goes back together.
Well I got my subframe and mustache bushings from tunersnation today and they look very good quality. I got them in Black to match my energy suspension kit and give it a sleeper look. Here are some pics I will be installing them today and posting pics and a write up.
____________________________
Justin Underwood
93 awd eagle talon b16g
Last edited by pur97tsifwd; 06-22-2009 at 05:51 PM.
Ok tools I used for the subframe bushing removal and installation.
Tools used
A dremel
A bit for the dremel for drilling holes and a stone bit for cleaning the rubber out.
A ruber mallet
A Torch
A screw driver
Grease
A metal bucket for fire
First thing is to flip the subframe over the bushings are held in two spots drill holes in about three spots fo the rubber then start at one end of the rubber and apply pressure to cut from one end to the other. I then Used the torch to heat it up and a screw driver and mallet to pry it out.
Next I used a box knife to cut the rubber lip off the bottom. Then used the stone bit and torch to clean the rubber out of the subframe.
After it is all clean I made a small fire in a bucket and threw the rubber piece with the metal sleeve in it wait a while then take it out and the rubber just falls off. You then lube the metal sleeve up and hit it into the bushing with a rubber mallet. Then lube the bushing up and hit it into the subframe. Repeat on other side.
____________________________
Justin Underwood
93 awd eagle talon b16g
Last edited by pur97tsifwd; 06-26-2009 at 12:29 AM.
I have the kit also, my car will hopefully be done early to mid july. I'm wanting to know how much they will help with drag racing and handling. If there aren't many reviews up I'll be sure to post up differences I see with it on my car.
Also the guy that sells these is very friendly and I had no problems ordering from tunersnation.
I have the kit also, my car will hopefully be done early to mid july. I'm wanting to know how much they will help with drag racing and handling. If there aren't many reviews up I'll be sure to post up differences I see with it on my car.
Also the guy that sells these is very friendly and I had no problems ordering from tunersnation.
It's to limit unnecessary movement or else the rear end will have unwanted camber change under deflection.
For launching you want your differential to transfer all the power to the wheels not absorb the movement with given slack.
Ok here is my install of the mustache bar bushings these were a little harder to install because they are very tight fit.
Tools needed
bucket for fire
ball joint tool or press
Rubber mallet
Hammer
screw driver
torch
Dremel with sanding stone bit
Grease
Ok first I got a fire going in a bucket and put my mustache bar one side of it in the fire and leaned it against our car port for about 15 minutes untill you hear a poping and white or black smoke starts pooring out of the bucket then you can pull it out and hit it with a hammer and few times and the bushing just falls out repeat on other side. Once you get the bushings out you can throw them in the fire and burn off all the rubber I then used the screw driver to carry them to a water hose and cool them off and keep the metal sleeves. You then use a dremel and clean the rubber off of the metal sleeves and inside the mustache bar were the bushings were. You then grease the sleeve up and use a rubber mallet and hit it into the poly bushing. You then lube the poly bushing up and use a rubber mallet and beat it into the mustache bar as far as you can then you use the ball joint tool or a press to press it the reast of the way. Repeat on other side
____________________________
Justin Underwood
93 awd eagle talon b16g
Last edited by pur97tsifwd; 06-26-2009 at 12:33 AM.
Also i learned today when installing my subframe with the poly bushing in you had to remove the rubber from the washers that were used for your old rubber bushing and reuse them on your poly bushings. I just threw them all in a bucket with fire and waited about 15 minutes and then hosed them off and they were ready to go.
____________________________
Justin Underwood
93 awd eagle talon b16g
Ok, I started the process of getting the 2G rear poly subframe bushing made. I need two guinea pig cars, preferable with the subframe out and must and have access to Digital Calipers and know how to read it well.
So let me know.
Ok, I started the process of getting the 2G rear poly subframe bushing made. I need two guinea pig cars, preferable with the subframe out and must and have access to Digital Calipers and know how to read it well.
So let me know.
Did you find anyone yet? If I could help I would, but be between school and work I don't have any free time. (my mirage dd has been down all year too) But I am positively in for a set when you get them made.
Just wondering if anyone has spoken with these guys lately? They've been on backorder for two weeks I was told now and when I try calling the number on Tuners Nation website I get sent to a voicemail??
