Couple of Q's concerning ABS removal.

[eagle_talon90]

Hello all, I've been thinking about removing the ABS from my car for quite some time now and i did some searching and i just wanted to clear a few things up. 1. Is the non-abs proportioning valve and the new lines all i need? 2. Instead of buying the 4 new lines, seeing as some of them aren't even made anymore, would buying a stainless steel braided brake line kit such as this one Slowboy Racing, Inc. :: DSM :: Drivetrain :: Brake Lines :: Goodridge :: Goodridge Stainless Steel Braided Brake Line Kits work as well? And 3. Has anyone tried using the stainless steel line kit and if so what do you think of it? Any comments negative or positive appreciated. Thanks - Kyle

 

[underradar92]

Take the proportioning valve and the under-hood hard lines from the donor car, as at least all of that is different. The S.S. hose kits only go from the calipers to the hard lines in the wheel wells.

 

[Notstock]

Can you use the proportioning valve off of a non-turbo 1g? I found one in a junk yard. It has the two master cylinder lines coming out of the front instead of the sides like the pics I have seen. I got that and the two front brake lines for 20 dollars so I thought I might as well take the chance and get them. Let me know! Thanks

 

[JeffGST]

Use a non-ABS proportional valve. Turbo or Non-turbo. There are 6 lines in the Non-ABS proportional valve and 4 lines in the turbo PV. I personally used the turbo non-ABS PV, but I know of others who have use the non-turbo PV with no issues.

The only difference between the non-turbo and the turbo PV is how much the valve biases the braking power from the front and rear. Once again there have been no known issues running non-turbo PV.

The link in the OP, are not the correct lines. Those lines only replace the rubber hose at the rotors. You need the 2 HARD lines that run from the PV to the 2 front rotors and the 2 HARD lines that run from the PV to the master cylinder.