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2G New rotors and pads?

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I wouldnt buy those for my application, but as long as you stay away from Tracks like Road America that eat up brakes they should be ok. I would stick with stockers that are cheap and easy to throw away when they get bad. If you want slots take an angle grinder to them and cut the slots in yourself. (slots go opposite direction to the vanes to prevent a fatigue point). and semi metalics dont work the greatest for true racing but you can get by. If your doing it on the cheap on reliable get performance friction carbon metalics with the lifetime warranty and when you burn them up return them for new ones.
 
I've been enjoying hawk pads and power slot, slotted rotors on a my 90 as well as my S10 truck. A few friends have run other types of set-ups and gone to hawk pads. Also upgrading to braided stainless steel brake lines can give you some pedal feel back. I highly suggest bleeding your brakes if you've never done them. Brake fluid should be changed every couple years.

Oh, and I would NEVER take a grinder to a set of rotors and put slots in them. Thats a horrible idea. Also a cheap drilled rotor maybe more prone to cracking.
 
Well I went ahead and got these. The rotors have a lifetime warranty on warping or cracking, and the pads have lifetime on pad fading. So I think its a pretty good deal.. I just wanted a little better then stock. These were priced good and have a great warranty. I dont do any racing or anything so Im not to worried about them giving out.
 
Thats like saying theres no reason to get my eibach sportlines and tokico illuminas, or the a bigger turbo, or do anythig at all. I do it for the hobby and to know its there for the using.
 
I don't know man, we sell a ton of brake parts and because we do we get asked a lot about a lot of these other no names out there and we have also see a ton of them. Brakes are the last thing you want to go cheap on. I can't tell you how many times we have seen cars come through the shop with some of "knock off rotors"... It's not usually a very pretty picture.
 
It would be real nice if the rotor manufactures listed what grade of iron along with the additives in the rotors. That way you can base the trade offs between rotor wear, thermal shock, and fatigue resistance and bang for the buck. A street car has no need for high alloy ductile rotors versus a race car that goes through brakes and a lot of high heat cycles has a ton of benifits to having High grade rotors.
Plus I always find it amusing when the pad manufactures say very rotor friendly when the pads themselves are 3 time the rotor cost. $175 pads or a $30 rotor, thats the irony.
 
Well I went ahead and got these. The rotors have a lifetime warranty on warping or cracking, and the pads have lifetime on pad fading. So I think its a pretty good deal.. I just wanted a little better then stock. These were priced good and have a great warranty. I dont do any racing or anything so Im not to worried about them giving out.


I didnt see the warranty until you pointed that out in this post. Being that there is a warranty I would consider it a good deal for a street car that might go to a auto-x or something down the road :sneaky:.

For some reason I thought this was posted in the road racing area, which is why i went off on a tangent about racing rotors and pads.
 
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