Need advice from the experts!

[JLangevin]

Im sorry, but this may be a long post, please bare with me, and read all of it... you may have the answer I need.

Vehicle:
1995 GST Eclipse, Automatic

Ok, so on 11/11/06 I had my right front axle replaced due to an extreme failure. The axle actually came out in pieces, lucky for me, it did not damage my tranny. (This was not due to racing, I do not race my car on street or strip anymore)

The symptoms at the time were a BAD vibration, thunking when turning, accellerating, or decellerating.... when just cruising at a constant speed, it didnt do much noise or vibrations... It reminded me of having a large rock or something stuck in a tread, but very severe.

So the axle was replaced, and Im on my merry way.... Until today (7/31/07) - Im driving to Pasadena, CA for work and the car is driving along fine. Traffic begins to slow, and so do I... as traffic begins to move, i give it some gas, and WHOA..... Steering wheel being pulled to the right heavilly, then center, then right, then center... like the pullsating you get from warped rotors, but on the right side... but only when accellerating. Im thinking... WTF... Wheel bearing? But then it stops...... So I finish my business in Pasadena, and head back to Redlands, CA (about 60mi)... Im driving along, everything is fine, and when I get off the freeway again, I pulls to the right, but now the pullsating and pulling of the wheel is to the LEFT and only when DECELLERATING, not accellerating like before.

There is a slight "shallow" metallic clinking that sounds in sink with the rolling of the wheels every so often.. speeds up with wheels, slow down with wheels, not RPMs... So I KNOW its suspension/steering related. There is no wierd play in the steering where, and have not been able to jack up the car yet to check for wheel play. The axle is under 100% labor/parts warranty until 11/11/07, so Im covered there, but Im not so sure its the axle..

Before these guys look at it and say, "Its not the axle, but its the tie rod ends or hub, or yadda yadda...." Id like to get your opinions on it.

So, basic symptoms.

- Slight clinking of metal from time to time, in snyc with wheel rotation speed, not hard thunk like the axle went out prior.

-Car pulled to right and steering wheel wobbled left and right. If I Lock the wheel in place with my hands and knees, the car itself does not pull right and left, just the wheel.

-Car switched from pulling slighting right, to slightly left after a few min

-Car went from wobbling the steering wheel on accelleration, to decelleration with no change in driving pattern.

Any experts willing to throw out a thought?

 

[jtmcinder]

With the car in gear, lift one front wheel and try to turn it. Repeat on other side. This is to check the front diff. I would like this ruled out before going on.

- Jtoby

 

[JLangevin]

You're starting to scare me.... but I will do it. When you say turn it, as in right and left? if there is play, couldnt it be due to tie rods, etc? I need a little more info on exactly what I am looking for? i understand that you want me to leave one wheen on the ground, so that the wheels are not capable of turning with the steering system, but only by any play that may be present?

 

[wolf20043]

I believe he means for you to turn the tire (rotate). If it spins freely while in gear, your diff is gone. One tire should not spin while the other 3 are on the ground.

 

[JLangevin]

... or other 1 in my case

 

[JLangevin]

What if it turns a small tad then locks? I remember on my Camaro, even though it was LSD, it would still turn like an inch, etc... The transmission was rebuilt about a year ago, LSD was replaced... i hope it isnt that. Warranty is expired.

 

[wolf20043]

... or other 1 in my case

Duh!!!!!! Missed that, .
Mike

 

[JLangevin]

But like I asked, do you know how much play in the rotation of the wheel is acceptable? I had a $1200 Diff in my Camaro, that had almost an inch of rotational play, never had a problem.

 

[jtmcinder]

It might spin 15 degrees or so, depending on the slop. My front will turn about 5 degrees; my rear turns about twice that. But a blown diff will be obvious using this test. It will spin all the way around and around and around, as the tears well up in your eyes as another $2k is sacrificed to the DSM gods.

And, yes, I really should be writing rotate, instead.

- Jtoby

 

[JLangevin]

jtm

On the way home at 4:20pm Pacific Standard Time marked the death of my transmission....

The car pulled to the right so hard, it almost pulled me into the next lane... I fought to keep control, slowed down and headed for the exit, upon exiting the freeway.. "BOOM" the tranny/diff completely grenaded......

You are right... tears practically came... but not over the tranny, but the fact that it took 3 hrs for tow truck to arrive..

Now, what diff to replace it with in the rebuild.. I will not go with stock... also, what torque converter you reccomend? This time, Im doing it right.

 

[jtmcinder]

I know very little about automatics, but for drag-racing I'd get a Kaaz or for autocrossing I'd get a Quaife.

I'm sorry for your loss.

- Jtoby

 

[JLangevin]

Now, i have not had the car professionaly looked at, but Im assuming that with the car in gear, it only makes grinding noises, and doesnt go anywhere, and with it in gear, I can push the car..... that the diff grenaded.... along with it, metal traveled through the fluid and took out the rest of the system torque converter, etc?? Sound about right?

Well, like I said, I do not race the car anymore, I just want less auto lag with a higher stall, and the LSD, because why would I put another open diff in the car?

My wife is cringing at the cost... but Ive already put a ton of $$ into this car, might as well make it a tradition.

 

[Defiant]

Im sorry, but this may be a long post, please bare with me,

The shirt, maybe. But the pants stay on.

Have a shop check it. Look for the bolts on the carrier for the left axle to be broken off in the block.

 

[JLangevin]

Are you saying there may be hope?

Im really considering doing a manual transmission swap. But if I can get out of this for a lot less money, they maybe, JUST maybe, I will keep it auto. I figure I can do the 5 speed swap for the same if not less than the rebuild...

It would be nice to know whats went wrong, but I do not want to pay the shop the $325 they want just to look at it and tell me whats is wrong...

Is there anything I can do myself at home, short of pulling the tranny to see what may have happened. I suppose the best case scenerio would be that the differential did not ruin the fluid and only the diff needs to be replaced... this happened to a friend at the track... on the launch, he spun the diff, case spread open, and he just needed to replace the diff, didnt damage any of the tranny....

At this point, i have a very large fork in the road, and am having a hard time deciding on which to take.